Tom Doorley on borderline serious wines that still taste like a lot of fun
I knew I’d be tempting fate if I decided to write about summery wines. No sooner had I sat down at my desk than the heavens opened, so I apologise for this thoughtlessness.
All I can do is hope that by the time you read this the sun may be making valiant attempts to defeat the clouds. This is important as the wines I want to suggest this week are essentially ones that go best with a lazy open air lunch between friends. And they are all red, bar one. Somehow it’s a lot easier to choose whites for good weather. My sole rule of thumb with such whites is to avoid oak (there’s something about the whiff of smoky vanilla that goes with the cool of evening, to be honest) and humongous amounts of fruit. Otherwise, it’s plain sailing.
I’ve included a rosé because there is, to be frank, a rather narrow window of opportunity to drink this kind of stuff en plein air without shivering.
Grab the opportunity and discover that pink wines are not all sweet and mawkish; most of them are dry and rather grown-up.
Just avoid anything of that shade from California (you’re better off with a can of Coke) or that has the dreaded word ‘blush’ on the label.
Otherwise I’m looking for low tannins, decent fruit, plenty of acidity for freshness and ‘cut’ and, importantly, wines that you don’t need to drink with a brow furrowed in concentration. We’re looking for good stuff — borderline serious wines that still taste like a lot of fun.