The Irish Times - Friday - The Ticket - - SEVEN DAYS | EATING OUT -

In just a few short years, Fear­gal and Fiona O’Don­nell have brought the Fat­ted Calf from just another Ir­ish vil­lage pub serv­ing food to a des­ti­na­tion restau­rant and bar. In the mid­dle of pic­turesque Glas­son vil­lage, it de­stroys the idea of pub grub with its im­pres­sive menu. After all, you’d be hard­pressed to find ar­ti­san meat boards or sauces made with Belling­ham blue cheese and mar­row but­ter down in your lo­cal. The menu reads like a glos­sary of Ir­ish food sup­pli­ers, with Castlem­ine Farm lamb, Jane Rus­sell sausages, Gubeen chorizo, Lough Boura salad leaves, Lis­duff black pud­ding, and more.

John Stone beef makes mul­ti­ple ap­pear­ances, in­clud­ing 18-month air dried beef with horse­rad­ish cream and beet­root jelly. It’s a long way from a packet of Tayto and a pink Snack… They also have a good se­lec­tion of Ir­ish and in­ter­na­tion­al­craft beers.


West Gate , Ir­ish Town, Clon­mel, 052-612 1587, hick­eys­bak­, ¤ Clon­mel es­tab­lish­ment Hickey’s Bak­ery has four gen­er­a­tions worth of flour and but­ter un­der its fin­ger­nails. Nes­tled be­side the town’s his­toric West Gate, the bak­ery, famed for its award-win­ning barm brack, is mak­ing a name for its cute coun­try-style café out front.

With its large win­dows – where you can watch the peo­ple on the street and the sheep on the hills – Nuala Hickey has trans­formed the tra­di­tional “fancy bak­ery” far beyond breads, with an ex­ten­sive lunch menu of good Ir­ish coun­try cook­ing (the Aga is still in reg­u­lar use) with a mod­ern kick; from Inch House

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