The Irish Times - Friday - The Ticket - - SEVEN DAYS -

In just a few short years, Fear­gal and Fiona O’Don­nell have brought the Fat­ted Calf from just another Ir­ish vil­lage pub serv­ing food to a des­ti­na­tion restau­rant and bar. In the mid­dle of pic­turesque Glas­son vil­lage, it de­stroys the idea of pub grub with its im­pres­sive menu. After all, you’d be hard­pressed to find ar­ti­san meat boards or sauces made with Belling­ham blue cheese and mar­row but­ter down in your lo­cal. The menu reads like a glos­sary of Ir­ish food sup­pli­ers, with Castlem­ine Farm lamb, Jane Rus­sell sausages, Gubeen chorizo, Lough Boura salad leaves, Lis­duff black pud­ding, and more.

John Stone beef makes mul­ti­ple ap­pear­ances, in­clud­ing 18-month air dried beef with horse­rad­ish cream and beet­root jelly. It’s a long way from a packet of Tayto and a pink Snack… They also have a good se­lec­tion of Ir­ish and in­ter­na­tion­al­craft beers. wings – and of course piz­zas, which are thin crusted and come with some in­ter­est­ing top­ping com­bos, such as their pancetta, goats cheese, maple syrup and wal­nut pizza. Ev­ery­thing on the menu is avail­able gluten-free, and the Nar­nia-in­spired bath­rooms (you reach them by walk­ing through an an­tique wardrobe) are a big hit with kids big and small.


West Gate , Ir­ish Town, Clon­mel, 052-612 1587, hick­eys­bak­, ¤ There’s a great brunch menu on Satur­days and break­fast through­out the week from 8.15am .


41 South Mall, Cork, 021 4222 990, elec­trick­ ¤

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