The Irish Times - Friday - The Ticket - - SEVEN DAYS | EATING OUT - Kaarage

With seat­ing for just 15 peo­ple, this tiny new Ja­panese restau­rant has moved into a some­what doomed lo­ca­tion. This premises seems to change hands ev­ery other week, never with any suc­cess. KiRaudo seems dif­fer­ent though. A com­plete facelift, ex­cel­lent staff, and the abil­ity to eat in, in com­fort­able – if cosy – sur­round­ings all help to make this look like a place that will stick. They clev­erly launched with just two menu items, giv­ing them a chance to find their feet. There’s a regular bento and a veg­e­tar­ian ver­sion. Both are ¤8.99. Both boxes in­clude a bowl (or take away con­tainer) of good miso, some fried gy­oza, a cou­ple of pieces of nori­maki, a hot main dish and a sec­ondary meat dish or salad. Ky­oto ribs were a lit­tle too fatty but the spicy sauce is good. A chicken (tasty morsels fried til the bat­tered coat­ing is nicely crispy) is good, although strangely served on a salad with mus­tard dress­ing. Stir-fried veg­eta­bles are re­ally good – fresh and still crisp and full of bite. A Thai-style veg­etable dish is too bland. Bet­ter to stick with the Ja­panese favourites.

A new menu launched this week, and in­cludes sushi, ra­men, some fried soba dishes and a cou­ple of cur­ries. As a nice touch, a green tea is given to ev­ery­one wait­ing for take-out, although we’re not sure how long that will last, con­sid­er­ing there was a queue to the door on our visit.


NCAD, 100 Thomas Street, Dublin 8, face­ lun­cheonet­te­dublin ¤ Lunch in the DIT Aungier Street can­teen in the 1990s usu­ally in­volved cheap cups of tea, a cou­ple of Marl­boro Lights (sorry folks) and if we were feel­ing flush, a plate of chips and gravy. High times in­deed. The stu­dents at NCAD have a much tastier op­tion in Lun­cheonette – a vaulted base­ment café, run by artist Jen­nie Mo­ran, whose light in­stal­la­tions brighten the sub­ter­ranean space. Along with Brazil­ian chef Wag­ner Dos San­tos, Mo­ran has cre­ated a cool lit­tle spot that still has the fran­tic starved-stu­dent may­hem dur­ing lunch hours, but is a re­lax­ing spot in be­tween (non stu­dents are wel­come). Open from 8.30am on week­days for break­fast (it closes at 3.45pm) the menu The an­nual St Pa­trick’s Day (Week­end? Week?) fes­tiv­i­ties grind into gear to­mor­row morn­ing. We know the man him­self wasn’t big on snakes or slav­ery, but we have it on good author­ity he had a healthy ap­petite, so we’ve found some food-re­lated events this week­end to re­mem­ber him in style.

In Dublin, the St Pa­trick’s Fes­ti­val has turned into a huge in­ter­na­tional af­fair with hun­dreds of events from 9am to­mor­row morn­ing. the monthly ex­plo­ration of the role of food in our his­tory, cul­ture and so­ci­ety, de­camps from its home in the United Arts Club to take over the old brew­ers’ dining hall in the Guin­ness Store­house to­mor­row night. A three-course menu from Justin O’Con­nor will in­clude Car­ling­ford oysters, baby gem with Clon­akilty black pud­ding and Ard­sal­lagh goats cheese, Slaney Val­ley Lamb with bar­ley risotto and poached North At­lantic Hake. Culi­nary his­to­rian

will dis­cuss Ir­ish cui­sine and how it has shaped us as a peo­ple, fol­lowed by live mu­si­cal per­for­mances. From 7.30pm to 10.30pm, tick­ets ¤65, in­clud­ing wine, from bi­

A one-day cel­e­bra­tion isn’t enough in Cork city ei­ther, and as well as the pa­rade on Tues­day, there’s live mu­sic all week­end on Pa­trick’s Street and the

Bia Beatha,

Máirtín Mac Con Io­maire

Lee Ses-

changes daily, but stal­warts in­clude pound cake (it’s a tangy lemon and thyme at the mo­ment, ¤2), a good serv­ing of por­ridge with cream, roasted hazel­nuts and honey (¤2) and “com­pli­cated flap­jacks” (¤1.70).

Lunchtime of­fer­ings gen­er­ally in­clude a cou­ple of sam­bos and a soup or salad. They’re stu­dent-friendly in bud­get, but a mil­lion miles from chips and gravy. There are some re­ally in­ter­est­ing flavours and ideas; Azer­bai­jani spinach and split pea soup with pomegranate and bulgar, ¤3 (col­lege-go­ing Rachel would


will take over a num­ber of city pubs ev­ery evening. Food is fea­tur­ing high on the agenda too, with many restau­rants serv­ing a spe­cial Ir­ish dish dur­ing the fes­ti­val (see cork­st­patrick­fes­ti­ on Caro­line Street (ida­ho­ is show­cas­ing Frank He­d­er­man’s de­li­cious smoked salmon, with crushed pota­toes, Ard­sal­lagh goats cheese and a green (but of course) leaf salad, ¤12; the

on South Mall (elec­tric­ is serv­ing up oysters (3 for ¤6, 6 for ¤12, 12 for ¤24) with Guin­ness to mark the day, or you can take part in the a walk­ing tour of the city’s mar­kets, bak­ers and fish, meat and cheese­mon­gers with lots of tast­ings along the way. There’s a trail to­mor­row, de­part­ing from Grand Pa­rade at 10.30am, ¤55 per per­son, book at fab­food­ You can’t get more Ir­ish than

which runs from to­mor­row un­til the 17th. Gigs, work­shops, danc­ing, fam­ily events and ceilis take over the city for the fes­ti­val, with all events on the

free of charge (so ex­pect a tight squeeze). Watch out for

and Sound­ings: Holy Trinity show in the Long Gallery of Kilkenny Cas­tle at 4.30pm on Sun­day, with three mu­si­cal guests who will per­form and tell sto­ries. Af­ter­wards, pop across the road to restau­rant, in the 16th-cen­tury cas­tle sta­bles, for a three-course meal fol­lowed by a con­cert from (Éilís Kennedy and Pauline Scan­lon).


Fish Bar at the

Fab Food Trail,

Kilkenny’s Trad­fest,



Dy­lan Lisa Han­ni­gan’s

have recog­nised about two of those in­gre­di­ents), roast free-range chicken cia­batta (¤4) or a de­cently sized por­tion of spiced brown rice and mung bean salad thinly sliced radish, pis­ta­chio and co­rian­der (¤3.50). A lovely, friendly lunchtime spot that could teach other col­lege can­teens a thing or two.


162 Par­nell Street, Dublin 1, 01-8783165, € A small Viet­namese restau­rant on Par­nell Street , this place spe­cialises in pho – a popular

Idaho Café




Sit­tings for din­ner at 6.15pm or 7pm (the ta­ble is yours for the evening) and the menu from Kath­leen Mo­ran’s team will in­clude prawn and crab­meat with lime, ap­ple & pecan salad on sour­dough, and Paddy White’s beef short rib with car­rot & parsnip puree, onion tart, champ & wild mush­room sauce. Tick­ets ¤45 per per­son, from 0567722118/info@kilken­ny­de­

Gal­way’s fes­tiv­i­ties are cen­tred around the city’s cre­ative com­mu­nity, with lots of in­put from lo­cal cul­tural groups.

which pre­serves the city’s mar­itime her­itage, will have a 21ft Gal­way Hooker on dis­play in Eyre Square for lo­cal buskers to per­form on. Keep the hunger for cre­ativ­ity alive with some lo­cal fish tacos in

(36 Up­per Abbey­gate St, elec­tric­gal­ which is open from 6pm Thurs-Sat, and 2pm on Sun­day. This “street­food dis­cotheque” is in the newly re­vamped a hub for cre­ative types, and the top floor eatery blends re­ally good food (a mish­mash of Mid­dle Eastern, Mex­i­can and more) with ex­cel­lent mu­sic and cock­tails – see panel (right) for their Pomegranate and Sumac Sour. On the menu, you can ex­pect those de­li­cious tacos (¤8.50) with fish of the day, or­ange pico de gallo, chipo­tle crema on soft tacos; or try a bucket of crispy fried chicken, served with a side of chunky slaw (¤9). There’s an all-day party on the 17th with mar­garita slushies to cel­e­brate (well, they are green).




street food con­sist­ing of a light broth, rice noodles, chicken or beef (though you can of­ten get veg­e­tar­ian and seafood op­tions), with veg­eta­bles. The pho of­fer­ings at Pho Viet share the same light stock, and you add beef (¤8.50), chicken (¤8.50) or prawns (¤10.50). The beef is a hearty op­tion, with a choice of four cuts of meat (you choose three, or all four for an ex­tra ¤1). They in­clude slices of brisket, rare sir­loin steak, flank steak or meat balls. The meat balls are small, dense and firm, noth­ing like their Ital­ian name­sake, while

Bádóirí an Cladaig


– Rachel Collins

the brisket has been slow roasted and is melt-in-the­mouth. The flank can be tough, but the sir­loin is a good op­tion. Each bowl comes with a plate of ex­tras, such as mint leaves, lemon wedges, ex­tra chillis, bean sprouts and co­rian­der, and you mix un­til you’ve found the taste that suits you best. Banh Cuon (¤7.50) a Viet­namese pan­cake made with rice flour is filled with prawn, pork and mush­rooms and then fried like a crepe. For a burst of fresh, crunchy good­ness, try the Goi cuon (¤4 for two) a health­ier ver­sion of spring rolls, trans­par­ent rice pa­per roll served cold stuffed with chilled prawn, pork, ver­mi­celli noodles, mint and veggies and served with a tangy dip­ping sauce. The chicken wings (¤7) are po­tent and very tasty – a lib­eral dose of tamarind in the sauce sets them apart from the bet­ter known Amer­i­can chicken wings.


22 South Great Ge­orge’s Street, Dublin 2, 01-679 7821, face­ si­mon­splace­cafe ¤ A long­time favourite of mu­si­cians, stu­dents, ac­tors, artists, stall hold­ers from Ge­orge’s Street Ar­cade and (on this rare oc­ca­sion, the word is war­ranted) an eclec­tic bunch of loyal cus­tomers, Simon’s Place is a Dublin in­sti­tu­tion on the cor­ner of Ge­orge’s Street and the ar­cade. With large win­dows look­ing in on the cafe, its walls plas­tered with old gig posters, its wooden chairs and large communal ta­bles, there’s a great at­mos­phere and great mu­sic.

The menu is as con­sis­tent as the vibe – hon­est-to-good­ness doorstep sand­wiches, with old-school fill­ings, such as chicken, let­tuce, spring onions, tomato (¤4.90 eat in). Or for the same price, swap out the chicken for egg, or ham, or tuna or cheese. Sal­ads come in half por­tions (¤2.20) and three- and four-per-plate serv­ings (¤5.90, ¤7.50) or try the Gen­eral Veg­etable soup (¤4.50) – a hot bowl of good­ness that can help ban­ish the most stub­born of snif­fles. You’ll of­ten find gigs here in the evenings and you can ex­pect to queue at lunchtime. Make sure you leave room for one of the ridicu­lously good cin­na­mon buns (¤2.20).


46 Har­ring­ton Street, Dublin 8, 01-441 6596, sis­ter­ ¤ The lit­tle sis­ter to the un­stop­pable Brother Hub­bard jug­ger­naut over on Capel Street, Sadie moved into the Har­ring­ton Street premises va­cated by Café Tiesan and quickly made it her own, with some great in­te­ri­ors by De­sign­goat. Open for break­fast from 7.45am, the el­der sib­ling’s in­flu­ence is ev­i­dent in the menu (they’ve nicked his Turk­ish eggs, for one), but Sadie stands on her own two feet and you can get some proper por­ridge (as op­posed to pri­son slop) that comes with ex­tras such as toasted seeds and crys­tallised gin­ger, cream and honey, or ap­ple, berry and sweet gera­nium com­pote (¤3.95).

There’s a daily warm salad for lunch (served with sour­dough and hum­mus, ¤9.95),such as chick­pea with roast but­ter­nut squash, chard and poached eggs. The lunch meal deal (¤9.95) is good value for the rav­en­ous, with a sambo, soup or salad box for main, with soup or salad for a side and a drink. There’s some se­ri­ously good co­conut and cit­rus cakes (¤3.60), or go full-glut­ton and try the hot choco­late, which is pre­sented in two jugs; pour choco­late ganache from one and choco­late milk from the other and mix to your heart’s de­sire. Week­end brunch is the time to linger over those Turk­ish eggs men­e­men (¤9.95), served from 10am to 4pm Satur­days and Sun­days.

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