The Irish Times - Friday - The Ticket - - SEVEN DAYS | EATING OUT - LM


Bar­be­cues, bread and butch­ery – they may be clichéd “dad foods”, but we don’t know a man who would turn his nose up at a food-based gift this Fa­ther’s Day. Here are some tasty ideas

Real bread has be­come an in­creas­ingly popular move­ment in Ire­land: tak­ing out all the ad­di­tives, preser­va­tives and sugar, and bash­ing the dough around your­self is not only health­ier but in­cred­i­bly sat­is­fy­ing. A bread-mak­ing course is a great present. One of the cham­pi­ons of real bread is Pa­trick Ryan, who, with his part­ner Laura Moore, owns

in Del­gany, Co Wick­low. The cou­ple also has a bread school on Heir Is­land, off the coast of West Cork, where they run day-long cour­ses in bread­mak­ing. Th­ese classes are booked out un­til next year, but your dad can try a shorter evening class in the Del­gany bak­ery, where he can learn all about yeasted breads and soda breads, rolling and shap­ing and bak­ing at least three dif­fer­ent breads on the night. Classes are from 6.30pm to 10pm and cost ¤65 per per­son. See the­fire­

Julie Lock­ett and Joe Fitz­mau­rice (whose fam­ily runs Blaz­ing Sal­ads Food Com­pany in Dublin) own

Fire­house Bak­ery


Riot Rye Bake­house and Bread School

(ri­ in the Eco Vil­lage in Cloughjor­dan, Co Tip­per­ary. From their wood-fired bak­ery they hold bread-mak­ing cour­ses. A one-day Sour­dough Bread class (the next takes place on July 11th) costs ¤95 and in­cludes in­for­ma­tion on mak­ing and main­tain­ing a sour­dough starter, hands-on ex­pe­ri­ence mak­ing yeasted and sour­dough breads, knead­ing tech­niques and lots of nerdy in­for­ma­tion on flours, fer­men­ta­tion, and the Real Bread move­ment. There are eight in each class, which runs from 11am-5.30pm, lunch in­cluded, and your fa­ther will bring home bags of bread he has cooked in the wood-fired ovens.

Speak­ing of wood-fired ovens, if you’re feel­ing re­ally flaithiúlach, you could treat your dad to his own wood-fired oven (and ben­e­fit from the de­li­cious fruits of said oven for years to come). You can spend any­thing up to ¤10,000 on one, but we’ve used a very solid

from Di­neen Re­frac­to­ries in Wolfhill Co Laois (di­neen­ Th­ese come as a build it your­self kit, start­ing at ¤799 (the Val­im­brosa is ¤999), de­liv­ered to your home and in­clud­ing all the ma­te­ri­als nec­es­sary to build an at­trac­tive clay oven that your dad can use to cook piz­zas and breads, and also to roast joints of meat.

For some qual­ity (eat­ing) time to­gether, a day on a food trail is a nice way to hang out with your dad. There are lots around the coun­try, in­clud­ing

in Dublin’s “De­li­cious Dublin” tours. French­woman Ketty Elis­a­beth brings you on a tour of some of Dublin’s food and drink shops and busi­nesses, teach­ing you

Pizza Oven

French Foodie


The Long Dock is a gem at the heart of Loop Head and the per­fect stop­ping-off point en route to climb the light­house over Clare’s spec­tac­u­lar cliffs. As you’d hope in this part of the world (but not al­ways find), the seafood se­lec­tion is spec­tac­u­lar.

One a re­cent visit we got stuck into a mas­sive bowl of mussels in a de­li­cious wine and gar­lic sauce (¤9.95); great, meaty crab claws (¤13.95); a surf and turf that de­liv­ered loads of flavour and great value about Ir­ish food his­tory and the city’s food scene along the way. You’ll visit up to eight premises, in­clud­ing bak­eries, ice cream shops and restau­rants, and there are lots of sam­ples. Tours last three hours and cost ¤50 per per­son. The next tour is on June 27th. See french­food­iein­

is run by Eveleen Coyle, who has a vast knowl­edge of Dublin’s food land­scape, trends and hid­den gems. She has ex­tended her busi­ness to Cork and Kilkenny and you can take walk­ing tast­ing tours of th­ese three cities, learn­ing about their re­spec­tive mar­kets, food halls, ar­ti­sans and pro­duc­ers, and some his­tory along the way. The trails take two-and-a-half hours and cost ¤55 in Cork and Dublin and ¤50 in Kilkenny. See fab­food­

In Gal­way, Sheena Dig­nam from Kai café and restau­rant runs ev­ery Satur­day and Sun­day, lead­ing you around the city to meet ar­ti­sans and pro­duc­ers, such as Sheri­dan’s Cheese and Pe­tit Delice café, with tast­ings and a guided walk through the

Fab Food Trails

Gal­way Food Tours,

at ¤19.95; and a rich, creamy seafood pie hid­ing be­neath a pil­lowy mash top (¤14.95).

The daily spe­cials are much more ad­ven­tur­ous than we were on this visit. The cosy bar set­ting and roar­ing fire was the per­fect an­ti­dote to one of those early sum­mer days that de­liv­ered all four sea­sons in one. This is one worth mak­ing a lengthy de­tour for.


101-102 Capel street, Dublin 1, 01-878 8798, face­ hanoidublin ¤ This new Viet­namese restau­rant on the top of – where else? – Capel Street es­chews the

Send your dad to a pizza class, or go all out and buy

him a wood-fired oven

farmer’s mar­ket. The tour takes up to two hours and costs ¤26 per per­son. See Food Tours Gal­way on Face­book.

For a more hands-on (and bloody) gift, one of Pat Whe­lan’s butch­ery evenings can sat­isfy the most com­mit­ted car­ni­vore. Th­ese classes take place in

in Avoca Rath­coole, Co Dublin and Kil­macanogue, Co Wick­low. The evening be­gins at 6.30pm with a glass of wine and some of Whe­lan’s sausage rolls. Your dad will then learn about knives – keep­ing them sharp (and safe) and what knives suit what job. There are demos on dif­fer­ent pork cuts, plus ev­ery­one will roll and stuff a pork joint and bring it home later. Lesser-known cuts of beef such as the blade, feather and bowler steaks are cut, cooked and sam­pled, and there’s a les­son on how to de-bone a chicken, fol­lowed by more sam­ples of food and a gift bag to take home, in­clud­ing The Ir­ish Beef Book. The next course is in Rath­coole on Tues­day, July 7th. Tick­ets are ¤99 from jameswhe­lan­butch­

If your fa­ther prefers to burn meat in­stead of butcher it, you

James Whe­lan Butch­ers

look and feel of its neigh­bour­ing Asian restau­rants. In­stead, it looks like a mix of New York loft (ex­posed brick­work ev­ery­where), Ge­or­gian Dublin (high ceil­ings with or­nate cov­ing and roses) and Tiki hut (with its bamboo bar and bright gold dec­o­ra­tions and trin­kets).

Once your senses have re­cov­ered from the dé­cor, this is an in­cred­i­bly friendly place, with at­ten­tive Viet­namese staff. The menu is lengthy, with dishes ar­ranged by style rather than strict starters and mains. There are many familiar dishes, such as pho, the ubiq­ui­tous Viet­namese rice noo­dle soup, thin Viet­namese crepes and banh mi (the French-in­flu­enced pork baguettes with salad). could send him to some suit­ably mas­cu­line cooking classes.

Cop­ple­stone Food Com­pany

in Cork city is kit­ted out with a Big Green Egg BBQ, a Hen­drik Le­pel-made wood-fired oven and a Texas- style BBQ and smoker. They run bar­be­cue classes cov­er­ing home­made burg­ers, fish and a va­ri­ety of steaks plus sal­ads and sauces. Hands-on pizza-mak­ing classes cover how to make dough and sauces and the group cooks four dif­fer­ent styles of pizza. Each class is from 7pm to 8.30pm, fol­lowed by a large meal at a communal ta­ble. Classes cost ¤50 per per­son, book­ing from cop­ple­stone­food­com­

Dublin Cook­ery School

(dublin­cook­ has a bar­be­cue class on Satur­day, June 27th from 10am to 3pm, where your dad will learn about in­ter­est­ing mari­nades for meat and fish, pre­par­ing and cooking on the bar­beque, and recipes for sal­ads, side dishes and sal­sas. He’ll cook but­ter­flied leg of lamb, spiced hoisin ribs, naan breads, roasted veg­eta­bles and more. The day-long course is ¤150 per per­son, in­clud­ing lunch with wine.

There’s also a rather jar­ringly named “Cooking for Blokes” class on July 1st from 7pm to 9pm, which cov­ers knife skills, var­i­ous cooking tech­niques and how to make your din­ner look good enough to eat. This class is ¤70 per per­son.

Fi­nally, if your dad prefers all the work – and cooking – to be done for him, there are two Fa­ther’s Day breaks at

Inchy­doney Is­land Lodge and Spa

(inchy­doney­is­ this year. A two-night stay in a deluxe room over­look­ing Inchy­doney beach with break­fast both morn­ings and one din­ner in the Gulf­stream restau­rant – which serves some very good lo­cal seafood – plus ac­cess to the sea­wa­ter pool and ther­mal suites costs ¤240 per per­son shar­ing – to in­clude a sea kayak­ing trip with

– or ¤280 per per­son shar­ing, to in­clude an Elemis Mus­cle Melt Mas­sage in the spa.


Sum­mer rolls (¤4.20), the fresher, health­ier sib­ling of spring rolls, come in pairs, served cold with pork, prawn, rice noodles, herbs and cu­cum­ber wrapped tightly in a soft rice pa­per roll and served with a spicy satay dip­ping sauce - like an ex­plo­sion of sum­mer in your mouth. There’s also a veg­e­tar­ian ver­sion of th­ese rolls, which are good value at ¤3.50.

A Hanoi plat­ter for one (¤7.80) in­cludes one of the sum­mer rolls, plus two spring rolls filled with pork, prawn and crab – the Viet­namese ones are crispier than their Chi­nese coun­ter­part – and a fat crab claw sur­rounded by a minced crab and prawn stuffing and fried.

The only dud of the smaller

At­lantic Sea

– Rachel Collins

plates are the steamed rice rolls (¤6.50), thin rolls with just a scrap­ing of minced pork and mush­room, that have been steamed into a gluti­nous mush and served with “Viet­namese pate”, which turns out to be large, thin slices of sausage.

Bet­ter was the Hanoi turmeric fish fil­let (¤13.90) which is elab­o­rately mixed in a siz­zling pot at your ta­ble to in­cor­po­rate veg­eta­bles, fresh herbs, peanuts and rice noodles. Although it be­came quite oily, the flavour of the fish (hake ) was good. A fresh crab meat salad stir fried with barely-there ver­mi­celli rice noodles (¤9.50) was again a lit­tle heavy on oil, but was full of good, fresh crab, crunchy bok choi and herbs. There are a num­ber of Bún soups - spicy,

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