Gal­way

The Irish Times - Friday - The Ticket - - SEVEN DAYS | EATING OUT -

fes­ti­val ear­lier this year. His in­flu­ence is at play here at Wig­wam with the pin­cha rump steak and Brazil­ian style oven baked eggs and av­o­cado. The Pickle Me Sense­less sand­wich (¤7) is pick­led brisket on rye with a de­light­fully spicy black pep­per mayo, melted cheese and gherkins. It’s like a clas­sic Rueben with an ad­di­tional kick. I don’t like the salad greens that have been added . They are un­nec­es­sary, and have be­come wilted in the toast­ing process. I pre­fer my salad on the side. I or­der the Minty Pic­nic Salad (¤8.50) with quinoa and kid­ney beans is sim­ple and refreshing. It comes with a slice of batch bread toast, and it would have been nice to have some­thing to spread on the toast.

Vice is one of the four in­de­pen­dent busi­nesses that Wig­wam will play host to, along­side the Box­cut­ter Bar­ber­shop down­stairs, the Brew­tonic’s Drink Shop and the Wig Your Wam cos­tume kiosk which will be open late Fri­day and Satur­day night for all your 1970s disco cos­tume needs.

Wig­wam is open for brunch and lunch ev­ery­day, and there’ll be late nights on Fri­day on Satur­day.

Café Joly

The Na­tional Li­brary of Ire­land Kil­dare Street, Dublin 2 nli.ie € The Na­tional Li­brary of Ire­land is home to records of Ir­ish life, made ac­ces­si­ble to those read­ers who wish to study the doc­u­ments and ar­chives of this pub­lic li­brary. The Li­brary is free of charge to any­one who wants to con­sult the col­lec­tions, though a reader’s ticket is needed, and avail­able from the li­brary’s front desk in the build­ing that over­looks the Dail, where the li­brary has lived since 1877.

It’s not a lend­ing li­brary and in­stead read­ing rooms abound in this im­pres­sive space. There is of­ten a small ex­hi­bi­tion in the hall­way just be­fore you en­ter the café, mean­ing you can get your five min­utes of cul­ture with­out hav­ing to dive into the ar­chives of the li­brary.

Café Joly is tucked away in a cor­ner room on the ground floor, one of the few rooms not given over to books and records. Named af­ter Dr Jaspar Robert Joly, who do­nated his pri­vate li­brary to the Royal Dublin So­ci­ety in 1863, the café is run by Brownyn Bai­ley and Michael O’Malley. They source Ir­ish cheese, pates and char­cu­terie to serve on boards along­side their home­made soups, tagines and sand­wiches.

They make and source ev­ery­thing fresh on a daily ba­sis, mean­ing that they can of­ten run out of food by around 4pm. This is a good sign – un­til you turn up hun­gry at 4pm that is. It means you could miss out on their daily soups, which can in­clude chicken and thyme (¤6.50) or spiced cour­gette and fen­nel (¤5).

Sand­wiches are on cia­batta rolls and are stuffed full of Ir­ish in­gre­di­ents, such as Knock­adrinna Ewes cheese with spiced clemen­tine jam (¤6) or Mclough­lin’s corned beef with horse­rad­ish and baby beet­root pickle (¤6).

You can opt in­stead for one of the tast­ing plates, such as the se­lec­tion of On The Pig’s Back ter­rines, toast and rel­ish (¤9.50) They of­fer a hot dish of the day, too, which could be a beef and cider stew or a tasty tagine, and priced at around ¤9.50. They do a pop­u­lar Cup and Crust lunchtime deal of a half a cup of soup and half a sand­wich for ¤6.70.

They don’t have WiFi, making it a ter­ri­ble place to get some work done and a won­der­ful place to get away from your daily strifes and strug­gles. It can be de­li­ciously quiet in off peak times, and is most cer­tainly off the beaten track.

dela

51 Lower Do­minick Street, Gal­way 091-449252 dela.ie € Mar­garet and Joe Bo­han are the hus­band and wife who opened dela in 2013, in the space that used to house JP McMa­hon’s Cava restau­rant be­fore it moved to its new home on Mid­dle Street. The Bo­hans were in­spired by a trip to Nor­way, where they ex­pe­ri­enced a sim­pler Scan­di­na­vian style of eat­ing out and wanted to bring an el­e­ment of that to Gal­way. Dela, trans­lated from Swedish, means to share.

To de­scribe the dé­cor or food at dela as Scandi would be mis­lead­ing, but it cer­tainly has a stripped-back rus­tic charm. The menu of­fers com­fort food clas­sics such as steamed Kil­lary mus­sels with chorizo, fen­nel and white wine (¤6.50 starter) and the dela sweet potato tagine Hot Pot (¤14.50). There is a shar­ing sec­tion on their din­ner menu, fea­tur­ing char­cu­terie and an Ir­ish cheese­board. Sea­son per­mit­ting, the couple grow as much pro­duce as pos­si­ble on their Moy­cullen fam­ily farm to sup­ply the restau­rant. They’re also into craft beer brew­ing and of­fer a few of their own sea­sonal brews along­side Ir­ish craft beers.

I’m in for brunch, cel­e­brat­ing the en­gage­ment of friends who are based in Gal­way. Com­pli­men­tary prosecco for the happy couple finds it way to our ta­ble thanks to Mar­garet Bo­han, who over­sees ser­vice beau­ti­fully. My re­fresh­ingly in­ter­est­ing non-al­co­holic straw­berry, berry bit­ters and soda drink is struck off our bill, too, in the name of cel­e­bra­tion. The cock­tails and choice of craft beers is great but the cof­fee could be im­proved. My flat white tastes burnt and bit­ter, and I can’t dis­tin­guish any of the softer notes – the caramels, choco­lates or berry flavours – that I al­ways look for­ward to tast­ing in care­fully brewed cof­fee.

I’m curious about the Mid­dle and Far East­ern in­flu­ences that run through the vege­tar­ian op­tions in the brunch and din­ner menus. The ap­pear­ance of a falafel and hum­mus on a Scandi-in­spired Ir­ish restau­rant, among the free-range mus­tard chicken and seared steak sand­wiches, feels a lit­tle off mes­sage. Though I have read the couple is keen to not tie them­selves down to just one type of food, for me it makes the menu feel a lit­tle un­fo­cussed.

But it all tastes great. The veg­gie break­fast (¤8.50) comes with crispy falafel and a lightly bat­tered cau­li­flower pakora. Paired with fried pota­toes, mush­rooms, eggs and fried toma­toes, it’s a big plate of food and a wel­come han­gover buster. My but­ter­milk pan­cakes (¤8.50) are made in the Amer­i­can style, stacked tall on the plate, driz­zled with maple syrup and served with good qual­ity ba­con. The break­fast bur­rito is not a break­fast op­tion that I’m a fan of – too messy, too big, too Guy Fieri – but dela’s do an el­e­gant job of it. Their brunch bur­rito (¤7.50) is wrapped in a toasty tor­tilla that doesn’t go soggy half­way through, like other dis­as­trous break­fast bur­ri­tos I’ve suf­fered through. The flavours of the scram­bled eggs, the rel­ish and the co­rian­der and lime salsa are bal­anced well.

Brunch for three, with a tea (¤1.80), an Amer­i­cano (¤2.50) and a flat white (¤2.80) comes to ¤32.10. Dela is open for brunch and din­ner only.

Cof­feew­erk + Press

4 Quay Street, Gal­way 091-448667 face­book.com/ cof­feew­erkand­press ¤ of milk. Bravo!

At the mo­ment, the busi­ness is fo­cus­ing on their cof­fee, but they are serv­ing a few buns and cakes sup­plied by Ard Bia just a few min­utes away. Cof­feew­erk + Press’s win­ter hot chocolate (¤3.50) looks ex­tremely spe­cial, too. It’s made from a com­bi­na­tion of or­ganic hot chocolate, dark chocolate, black pep­per, cin­na­mon, sea salt, chilli pow­der and hazel­nut syrup. Woah.

Re­cently, Cof­feew­erk + Press held an event where they brought the Cof­fee Col­lec­tive over to Gal­way from Copen­hagen for a Satur­day-af­ter­noon cup­ping class in the shop. They hope to do a small num­ber of events such as this through­out the year, high­light­ing sup­pli­ers in cof­fee and craft that they ad­mire. Keep an eye on their face­book page for de­tails of all fu­ture events.

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