DUBLIN

The Irish Times - Friday - The Ticket - - EATING OUT | SEVEN DAYS - AMcE

the tang of caramelised re­do­nion mar­malade. Fresh greens are stuffed be­tween the slices of ex­cel­lent sour­dough bread, and the sand­wich is ac­com­pa­nied by a well-bal­anced crunchy red cab­bage and car­rot slaw. Also on of­fer are glo­ri­ously sticky cin­na­mon and pecan buns (£2.20), baked in-house. I un­wrap one, slowly de­vour­ing each layer as I make my way to its sticky cen­tre.

The café’s twit­ter and in­sta­gram feeds (@es­tab­lished and @es­tab­lished­cof­fee) tempt with their kitchen’s cre­ative, change­able and sea­sonal mid-week spe­cials, such as fried gnoc­chi with basil lemon pesto, charred greens, parme­san and poached eggs (£5.50). Break­fast looks in­sane too, with the reg­u­lar ap­pear­ance of waf­fles the cause of re­cur­ring mid-morn­ing meal envy on­line. Next time you’re in Belfast, make sure Es­tab­lished is on your itin­er­ary.

Cow­town Café

73 Manor St , Dublin 7 01-441-1118 Find them on Face­book € The Dublin bor­ough of Stoney­bat­ter has seen much gen­tri­fi­ca­tion in the past five years. Some of my favourite new cafes and gas­trop­ubs are on or near Manor St. With that in mind, I get a pleas­ant sur­prise when I visit Cow­town Café, be­cause it’s such a re­fresh­ingly straight­for­ward greasy spoon café. Opened in Oc­to­ber 2015, it comes com­plete with squeezy brown-sauce bot­tles, plas­tic chairs nailed to plas­tic ta­bles, and ging­ham cur­tains on the win­dows. Even the name Cow­town harks back to an older, dis­ap­pear­ing Dublin.

Pro­pri­etors Niall Ka­vanagh

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