DUBLIN

The Irish Times - Friday - The Ticket - - SEVEN DAYS -

Meet Me in the Morn­ing

50 Pleas­ants Street Dublin 8 face­book.com/ meet­meinthe­morn­ing Opened by Brian O’Keefe on April 15th, Meet Me In The Morn­ing’s clear, un­pre­ten­tious iden­tity al­ready feels fully formed within a month of open­ing. He has brought his cof­fee ar­dour to his café, and my flat white (¤3.50) is flaw­less and flavour­ful. O’Ke­effe has plans to ro­tate be­tween an Ir­ish and an in­ter­na­tional roaster. When I visit, he’s us­ing beans from Hexagone Café, roasted in ru­ral France by Stéphane Cataldi, who pro­vided O’Ke­effe with his beans when he com­peted in the Brew­ers’ Cup, on both the Ir­ish and world stage.

In the kitchen, Fiona Hal­li­nan is an as­tute artist as well as be­ing a skilled cook. Hal­li­nan is greatly in­flu­enced by the vis­ual beauty of food, and her recipes are in­spired by her trav­els to places such as Beirut and In­dia. Her Nut Eile (¤5) is based on a friend’s recipe of roasted hazel­nuts blitzed and coco-ed up with raw ca­cao. It’s served sprin­kled with sea salt and slathered onto toasted slices of Le Le­vain sour­dough. The honey on the side is from O’Ke­effe’s fa­ther’s hives in Roscom­mon. Her bowl of egg and greens (¤7) ac­com­plishes break­fast tran­scen­dence. The egg is just cooked so that it runs glo­ri­ously into the rain­bow chard and sor­rel, sup­plied by Christie Sta­ple­ton from the nearby Green Door Mar­ket.

There are also spring onions, sweet­ened through fry­ing. A dol­lop of gar­lic yo­gurt melds with drops of pa­prika and chilli oil that is evoca­tive of chorizo while main­tain­ing this dish’s vege­tar­ian cre­den­tials. There are just a hand­ful of dishes ev­ery day, with an em­pha­sis on pro­duce, sim­plis­tic beauty, and above all, taste.

The name is spe­cial, too, taken from Bob Dy­lan’s song. “The name is an in­vi­ta­tion for two peo­ple to meet in the morn­ing. I wanted this café to be a so­cial place, not a place for lap­tops.” There is cur­rently no Wifi for cus­tomers, and it doesn’t sound like O’Ke­effe has plans to of­fer it in the fu­ture.

This space is sim­ple and serene, tempt­ing and en­gag­ing. There are some truly cap­ti­vat­ing tastes be­ing served up here, from the cof­fee bar to the kitchen. Taste the flavours for your­self from 9am to 5pm, Tues­day to Fri­day, and 10am to 5pm on Satur­days. 9 Cam­den Street Dublin 2 de­sel­bys.com Opened in Oc­to­ber 2015 by broth­ers Peter and Conor Sweeney, DeSelby’s reg­u­lar lunch menu, de­signed by head chef Sam Carey, in­cludes a pan-fried fish sand­wich on sour­dough (¤8), a Toulouse sausage sand­wich on brioche (¤9) and a seared tuna flat­bread with avo­cado and chipo­tle (¤8.50). Four or five spe­cials change daily, de­pend­ing on what’s good in the kitchen pantry. To­day, I can’t re­sist the Crem Brie-lee (¤9) with red-onion jam and toast.

It ar­rives a lit­tle run­nier than I would have liked, but it seeps hap­pily into the toasted sour­dough and the red-onion jam is ex­cel­lent. The soup to­day is a very green pea and broc­coli soup thick­ened with gen­er­ous hunks of ham hock (¤6). From the reg­u­lar lunch menu, I sam­ple the toasted Manchego cheese and ham hock sand­wich (¤8.50), a toasty el­e­vated to new heights of yum­mi­ness. DeSelby’s wine and beer li­cence means you can make it a squiffy lunch if the oc­ca­sion calls for it.

Bibi’s Café

14b Emorville Av­enue, off Clan­bras­sil St, Dublin 8 01-4547421 bibis.ie ¤ but­ter­nut squash and poached eggs (¤10), driz­zled in a chilli-in­fused but­ter. It’s the sub­tle flour­ishes, such as a sim­ple flavoured and melted but­ter, that el­e­vate a dish from good to great. A chorizo toastie (¤8.50) is de­li­ciously greasy from be­ing pan-fried, a crisp and el­e­gantly dressed salad on the side go­ing some way to mak­ing up for the naugh­ti­ness.

It’s a spe­cial spot, and one that’s prob­a­bly on your Best Of list al­ready. But, just in case it’s been a while since your last visit to Bibi’s, you’ll find them open ev­ery day of the week, from 9am to 4pm on week­days and 10am to 5pm on week­ends.

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