Bear Mar­ket Cof­fee

The Irish Times - Friday - The Ticket - - SEVEN DAYS | EATING OUT -

19 Main Street Black­rock Co Dublin bear­mar­

The space at Bear Mar­ket is de­cep­tive. These ar­chi­tects have man­aged to cre­ate length and height in a room with a rel­a­tively small floorspace, and it ap­pears that there is no room for a kitchen. This means that bring­ing in culi­nary col­lab­o­ra­tors makes a lot of sense. They’ve cu­rated an im­pres­sive spread of sweet treats, and haven’t lim­ited them­selves to one sup­plier, pulling in trusted bak­ers such as Love Supreme in Stoney­bat­ter and Pa­leo Man Foods from Co Meath. There’s an em­pha­sis on gluten-free and coeliac friendly, link­ing back to Husseys first project Pure Food.

I’m un­der­whelmed by the choices for a savoury lunch, though I no­tice gluten-free is well-catered for in a se­lec­tion of sand­wiches and sal­ads pre-made by Ur­ban Health, a healthy food cafe in Ranelagh. They’re per­fectly fine, and my crunchy veg­gie wrap (¤6.50) is cer­tainly above av­er­age in terms of fresh­ness and vi­brancy of ready-to-go wraps, but my ap­petite for some­thing spe­cial or in­ter­est­ing for lunch to match the cof­fee goes un­sat­is­fied. It just means I wouldn’t travel out of my way to come here for lunch, though the cof­fee may well be enough to draw vis­i­tors in.

Be­cause Bear Mar­ket Cof­fee is clearly a cof­fee-fo­cused spot, and it’s here where they ex­cel. There’s a lovely menu be­hind the barista bar that is a kind of flow chart of cof­fees, lay­ing out the con­nec­tion be­tween black, white and milky cof­fees. Has any­one else noticed cor­ta­dos pop­ping up on menus re­cently? I won­der if this is the in­flu­ence of Aziz An­sari and his char­ac­ter in Master of None, and if so, I thank him for what he’s done for us. Pre­vi­ously, I’ve en­joyed cor­ta­dos served in a 6oz cup be­cause they have the smooth­ness of a flat white but they’re strong and short, so they’ve got added kick. At Bear Mar­ket, my cor­tado is in a tall espresso cup and it is stronger than I’m ex­pect­ing. I move back to­wards my com­fort zone with a flat white made from their house blend and it’s sim­ply im­pec­ca­ble.

Deasy and Hussey work with Alan An­drews at Cof­fee Cul­ture as their cof­fee part­ner. The beans are es­pe­cially roasted in Dublin for Bear Mar­ket Cof­fee on a weekly ba­sis, and you can buy those beans (and grind them in the shop your­self if needs be) along­side an ar­ray of tan­ta­lis­ing cof­fee gad­gets from olive wood tea presses to Ja­panese de­signed pour-over cof­fee mak­ers. Their on­line shop is an ex­cel­lent source of well-cu­rated treats for cof­fee nerds, too.

The lo­cals al­ready love Bear Mar­ket Cof­fee and though I wouldn’t travel there with lunch on my mind, it’s cer­tainly a des­ti­na­tion spot for cof­fee lovers and worth get­ting on the DART for.

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