Top of the pops

Eat to­day, gone to­mor­row – we se­lect the best sum­mer pop- up stalls, cafés and restau­rants from around the coun­try, serv­ing up de­li­cious food in un­ex­pected places, writes Cather­ine Cleary and Aoife McEl­wain

The Irish Times Magazine - - FOOD -

It’s been a pop- up sum­mer, here one minute gone the next, so we thought we’d round up the best tem­po­rary places to eat. Th­ese are our pick of the weekly stalls, pop- up cafes and even fully- fledged restau­rants that save them­selves for sum­mer, like white jeans and Fac­tor 50. The Mews Baltimore, west Cork The ar­rival of red- trousered men into Baltimore is as pre­dictable as the swal­lows and swifts mi­gra­tion into the west Cork vil­lage. Three friends set up Mews Restau­rant three years ago. It opens only in the sum­mer and they added a walk- in bar area as ta­bles in the restau­rant book up fast. Chef Ah­met Dede, who took over the kitchen from Luke Matthews last year, came from The Green­house in Dublin where he worked as a sous chef with Mick­ael Vil­ja­nen. A prop­erly spe­cial place to cel­e­brate sum­mer. The Mews, Baltimore Vil­lage, Co Cork. Tel: 028- 20572; mews­restau­rant. ie L’Es­cale Schull, Co Cork L’Es­cale opens each year in June on the pier in Schull, serv­ing up fine seafood for the next three months. French pop mu­sic is played, Ir­ish lob­ster fresh from the tank are served with piping hot chips and French wine. Fish and seafood ex­porter Xavier Le­grix main­tains a leg­endary grumpy French­man ex­te­rior but I sus­pect this sum­mer cafe is where he’s se­cretly hav­ing the best fun. L’Es­cale, At the Pier, Schull, Cork. Tel: 02828599; nor­mandyire­land. com/ lescale Fum­bally Sta­bles Dublin If sum­mer pres­sure is get­ting to you the Fum­bally Sta­bles has a yoga lunch sea­son. This month’s yoga lunch is on June 23rd. The ¤ 40 in­cludes a one- hour yoga class, an­other hour of re­flec­tion which might be guided med­i­ta­tion and then lunch from the Fum­bally kitchen which they de­scribe as “pre­dom­i­nantly plant based, colour­ful, nour­ish­ing and plen­ti­ful”. If that doesn’t float your boat, the ¤ 30 pick­ling work­shop is on the first Satur­day of every month. Bring a clean jar and go home with a sea­sonal pickle and a new life skill. The Fum­bally Sta­bles, Fum­bally Lane, Dublin 8; the­fum­ballysta­bles. ie Inish­wal­lah Inish­bofin, Gal­way There’s a YouTube video of Kar­tika Menon’s old dou­ble decker bus lum­ber­ing off a ferry and driv­ing on to Inish­bofin Is­land for the first time. It looked like quite the op­er­a­tion. Menon turned the ven­er­a­ble old ve­hi­cle into Inish­wal­lah, us­ing the best seafood and veg­eta­bles from an or­ganic gar­den to cre­ate In­dian street food cooked on the bus and served up­stairs on the top deck with its views out to the ocean and open for five months this year. Inish­wal­lah, Westquar­ter, Inish­bofin, Gal­way. Tel: 087- 2874139; face­book. com/ Inish­wal­lah Mis­un­der­stood Heron Leenaun, Co Gal­way Af­ter tak­ing the win­ter off, Kim Young and Reinaldo Seco re- opened the shut­ters of their food truck The Mis­un­der­stood Heron in time for spring. This year, the truck re­sides on the grounds of Kil­lary Ad­ven­ture Com­pany, just across the road from their orig­i­nal park­ing spot. The view is still un­beat­able. Bite into a flaky homemade pastie stuffed with spinach and Con­nemara wild gar­lic, or a roasted ham sand­wich with a tomato and green chilli salsa, while tak­ing in the views of the Kil­lary fjord in all its awe­some glory. Mis­un­der­stood Heron, Der­rynslig­gaun, Leenane, Co Gal­way; Tel: 087- 9915179; face­book. com/ Misun­der­stoodHeron How Bao Now Var­i­ous Ir­ish Vil­lage Mar­kets around Dublin Baos, the steamed buns from Tai­wan ripe for stuff­ing with slow- cooked meats and hot sauces, look set to fi­nally have their mo­ment thanks to a few new baos on the block in­clud­ing Pow Bao and Bao House. What we love about Ger Dodd’s food stall, How Bao Now, is his ded­i­ca­tion to mak­ing his bao from scratch. For­merly the head chef at Fire­house Bak­ery in Del­gany, Co Wick­low, this baker knows his kneads and the taste shines through in his baos. Try the bao stuffed with pork belly, slow- cooked for 24 hours in a soy sauce glaze, topped with pick­led fen­nel at their stalls at The Ir­ish Vil­lage Mar­kets in Dublin. How Bao Now, Ir­ish Vil­lage Mar­kets at Spencer Dock, Bag­got Street and Sandy­ford, Co Dublin; Tel: 087- 2120814; how­baonoweire. ie

Chewy & The Beast Din­gle, Co Kerry Dick Mack’s has win­ter cosi­ness down to a fine art, but it’s the warmer months when the yard out the back re­ally comes into its own. The food truck Chewy & The Beast lives in the lane to the side of the pub, serv­ing up wood- fired oven piz­zas to go with sig­na­ture beers from Dick Mack’s Brew­house, brewed on site by Aussie Bar­ret, Gra­ham Murray and Dick Mack’s grand­son Finn Mac Don­nell. Chewy & The Beast, Dick Mack’s Lane, Green Street, Din­gle, Co Kerry; Tel: 087- 3527390; face­book. com/ chewyd­in­gle Home Fries Fes­ti­vals around Ire­land Home Fries have got­ten us through many a fes­ti­val. When you’ve spent the week­end in a sod­den field curs­ing the near- in­vis­i­ble punc­tures in your blow- up mat­tress, com­fort food is a ne­ces­sity. Own­ers Fer­dia and Sarah have been serv­ing up crispy fried spuds served with top­pings in­clud­ing chipo­tle s auce, garli c and cheese, or slow- roasted pulled pork. Keep an eye out for their vin­tage culi­nary car­a­van at fes­ti­vals and out­door events all over Ire­land. Home Fries will be fes­ti­vals in­clud­ing Van­tas­ti­val, Knock­an­stockan and Elec­tric Pic­nic, and at events and wed­dings; home­fries. ie My Good­ness English Mar­ket, Cork Vir­ginia and Donal O’Gara’s food re­ally does make a body f eel good. From deep- fried tacos to beau­ti­ful cashew nut minia­ture “cheese” cakes to net­tle ton­ics to kom­buchas, this stun­ningly cre­ative ve­gan food is fuel to keep your sum­mer vibes fly­ing high. Find them in The English Mar­ket or at their mo­bile stall at mar­kets and fes­ti­vals around the coun­try. My Good­ness, Unit 2, English Mar­ket, Cork City, Co Cork; Tel: 087- 9356652; my­good­ness­food. com White Mausu Var­i­ous fes­ti­vals We will al­ways love Katie San­der­son for giv­ing us Peanut Rayu, ar­guably one of the most ad­dic­tive condi­ments to grace Ir­ish palates in re­cent years. San­der­son and her team pop up at fes­ti­vals in­clud­ing Body & Soul and An­other Love Story to serve up her sig­na­ture plates of plant- based, flavour- fo­cused food. Her food is so swoon- somely de­li­cious that you might not even no­tice how heart- warm­ingly healthy it is, too. White Mausu will be at sev­eral fes­ti­vals over the sum­mer; whitemausu. com The Mar­ket Kitchen Var­i­ous fes­ti­vals How­ever much we may wish for it, it’s a fact that some­times our “sum­mer” weather calls for cosy com­fort food. Seek out The Mar­ket Kitchen, Sarah McNally and Li­aidain Kamin­ska’s stall, for divine toasties filled with sea­sonal treats from McNally’s Fam­ily Farm and eggie break­fasts to cure what ails you. They’re at The Tem­ple Bar Food Mar­ket every Satur­day and will be trav­el­ling to fes­ti­vals this sum­mer in­clud­ing The Fes­ti­val of Writ­ing & Ideas in Birr, Co Of­faly, Food on Board at Body & Soul and All To­gether Now in Wa­ter­ford. The Mar­ket Kitchen will be at sev­eral fes­ti­vals over the sum­mer. face­book. com/ the mar­ket kitchen TB FM Ba­nana Melon Kitchen Var­i­ous Cork lo­ca­tions Ba­nana Melon Kitchen is a ve­gan food start up founded by chef Suzanna Melinn. Origi- nally from Clare but now based in Cork City, Melinn hosted a series of sold- out ve­gan brunch pop- ups in Soma and O’Her­lihy’s in Kin­sale through­out the au­tumn of 2017. This sum­mer she’ll be collaborating with ar­ti­sans around Cork City and west Cork to put ve­gan cre­ativ­ity on the menu, in­clud­ing ideas such as ve­gan affa­gato with West Cork Cof­fee in O’Neill Cof­fee in Sk­ib­bereen. Melinn will cook a black food con­cept Mid­night Sup­per in O’Her­lihy’s in Kin­sale on June 21st to cel­e­brate the long­est day of the year. Ba­nana Melon Kitchen pop- ups in lo­ca­tions around Cork and west Cork; face­book. com/ Ba­nana mel on kitchen

Clock­wise from main: The Mis­un­der­stood Heron food truck in Leenaun, Co Gal­way, with its stun­ning views of the Kil­lary fjord; Inish­wal­lah, Kar­tika Menon’s dou­ble decker bus on Inish­bofin, serves In­dian street food; Vir­ginia O’Gara of My Good­ness, where they serve up stun­ningly cre­ative ve­gan food, ei­ther at their base in the English Mar­ket, Cork, or from a mo­bile stall at fes­ti­vals around the coun­try

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