Food & Drink

The Irish Times Magazine - - INSIDE - MARIE- CLAIRE DIGBY

A pub full of hun­gry pun­ters and a shared love of cook­ing over fire launched Fowl Play, a “live fire chicken joint” on the Dublin din­ing scene. Trev O’Shea and Andy Noo­nan were al­ready col­lab­o­ra­tors on The Big Grill Fes­ti­val, which takes place in Her­bert Park ev­ery Au­gust, when they teamed up and brought Fowl Play to the Square Ball pub at Ho­gan Place in Dublin 2.

They im­ported a smoker from Hous­ton, Texas, in­stalled a cus­tom- built char­coal ro­tis­serie and sourced free- range chick­ens for the ven­ture. The birds are served by the quar­ter, half or whole, with sides in­clud­ing charred kale with toasted sun­flower seeds and onion caramel; baked spiced chick­peas; charred veg­eta­bles with saf­fron oil and a house slaw with crushed peanuts and lemon yo­gurt dress­ing.

New menu din­ner spe­cials in­clude half a smoked Ir­ish duck with moon­shine orange marmalade and house- made kim­chi, and a turkey dog with sauer­kraut in a brioche bun. The bar snacks are a cos­mopoli­tan se­lec­tion in­clud­ing grilled padrón pep­pers, smoked chicken and chicken cro­que­tas, Filipino pork belly skew­ers and cher­ry­wood- smoked chicken wings.

The Pantry

The ed­i­bles on of­fer at The Pantry at Cliff, the new crafts, ar­ti­san prod­ucts and ac­ces­sories shop in Dove Square at Cliff at Lyons, Co Kildare, are a lot more in­ter­est­ing than the stan­dard of­fer­ings found in many ho­tels that pre­pare good­ies for guests to buy and take home with them.

On the well- stocked shelves you’ll find in­ter­est­ing salt and herb mixes and a va­ri­ety of vine­gars that will shake up your cook­ing. There are spe­cially blended sea­son­ing mixes for poul­try, fish, game and meat, as well as smoked Hawai­ian sea salt with wild dill and wild mush­room salt. There is also an ex­otic choice of sea buck­thorn vine­gar, wild fen­nel vine­gar and ap­ple and sor­rel vine­gar, as well as a use­ful sum­mer pantry ad­di­tion, lemon oil.

The spice and salt mixes are ¤ 6 and the vine­gars and oils are ¤ 8, with de­liv­ery cost­ing ¤ 5.35 for or­ders within the State. The Pantry shop is open 10am- 6pm daily, and you can have drinks and snacks there while you shop, or or­der on­line at cliffhome. ie.

Chefs with­out ti­tles

Chad Byrne, head chef at Danu at The Bre­hon ho­tel in Kil­lar­ney, has es­tab­lished Chef Col­lab, a pro­ject aimed at giv­ing young chefs a plat­form to show­case their skills, learn from oth­ers and make con­tacts within the in­dus­try. It also aims to high­light­ing the op­por­tu­ni­ties to work in the sec­tor that are avail­able in Kerry, where kitchens of­ten strug­gle to fill va­can­cies.

The idea is to bring to­gether groups of four chefs, work­ing at the same level, to cook a four- course meal for in­dus­try peers at a pop- up res­tau­rant. “There are no ti­tles in this kitchen. It is all about pas­sion,” Byrne says.

The first event, held at Court­ney’s Bar in Kil­lar­ney on May 28th, was a huge suc­cess and for the launch Byrne was joined in the kitchen by other head chefs: Noel En­right ( The Lake Ho­tel); Dy­lan Kelly ( The Rus­tic Pantry) and John O’Leary ( Muck­ross Park Ho­tel).

It will be fol­lowed by a sec­ond at the same venue on Mon­day, June 25th, at 8.30pm. Chefs de par­tie will be tak­ing over the kitchen on that night, and all four of them have worked in

Kil­lar­ney at some stage of their ca­reer. They are James O’Sul­li­van ( L’Ecrivain) on starters; Ja­son Nolan ( Gre­gan’s Cas­tle) fish; Jor­dan O’Donoghue ( The Europe Ho­tel) main course; Dan Moyni­han ( Danu at The Bre­hon) dessert.

The pop- up is open to the pub­lic as well as those in­volved in the in­dus­try and tick­ets for ¤ 25 can be booked by phon­ing 089- 4447904, or email­ing thek­er­rychef­co­lab@ gmail. com.

Blas dead­line

En­tries close on June 15th for the 2018 Blas na hÉire­ann food awards, which will be judged at the Dingle Food Fes­ti­val in Oc­to­ber. So if you make or pro­duce some­thing re­ally great in the Ir­ish food and drink sec­tor and haven’t al­ready en­tered, now is the time to do so. See irish­foodawards. com

Above: Andy Noo­nan, head chef and pit­mas­ter at Fowl Play in Dublin 2. Below right: Chad Byrne’s Fig with Cordal goat’s cheese and sugar snaps, pome­gran­ate vine­gar, chilli and goji berry dress­ing

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