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The Irish Times Magazine - - TRAVEL -

nowned head chef Jeremy Charles in the kitchen, that night’s meal was the best I have ever eaten. It’s fine din­ing us­ing lo­cal, wild and or­ganic in­gre­di­ents and my tast­ing menu in­cluded moose and cod’s tongue and cheek. Each dish was paired with a glass of wine, and af­ter a mag­nif­i­cent seven I was ready to ex­plore the city’s nightlife.

Ge­orge’s Street in St John’s is a bit like a great night out in Gal­way dur­ing sum­mer – bars run­ning into bars and live mu­sic in each of them. O’Reilly’s is a huge venue and the heart­beat of “the craic”. Yes, they say it here too. Brenda O’Reilly be­came the first fe­male bar owner on the street in 1996, and now runs the bar with Craig Flynn.

The fol­low­ing day I had an early din­ner in Mus­sels on the Cor­ner, which is also owned by O’Reilly, and serves tra­di­tional New­found­land food. The re­gion’s most tra­di­tional dish of all is called “Jiggs din­ner” which is es­sen­tially an Ir­ish stew.

That evening, my last in New­found­land, there was one thing I wouldn’t be al­lowed leave with­out do­ing. The “screech- in” is a cer­e­mony per­formed on out­siders who “come from away”. It in­volves a shot of screech ( New­found­land rum), a short recita­tion of some lo­cal lingo, the kiss­ing of a cod, and the wear­ing of a mad hat. At least that’s the way mine went in the Inne of Olde. I headed back to Ge­orge Street to en­joy my last night – dis­ap­pointed I wasn’t stay­ing for longer but glad I’d dis­cov­ered this new, nearby world.

Get there

WestJet fly di­rect and daily from Dublin to St John’s from May to the end of Oc­to­ber.

Where to stay

Alt Ho­tel: Queen bed room with har­bour view from ¤ 101 per night The Inn by Mal­lard Cot­tage: King Suite ranges from ¤ 170 per night.

Where to eat

The Mer­chant Tav­ern: Starters from ¤ 5/ mains from ¤ 15 Mal­lard Cot­tage: Dishes from ¤ 5-¤ 21 Mus­sels on the Cor­ner: 1lb of se­lected mus­sels dish ¤ 10 Ray­mond’s: Seven- course tast­ing menu is ¤ 88pp

What to do

O’Brien’s Whale and Bird Tours: Daily tours May- Septem­ber from ¤ 39 Light­house Pic­nics: Lunch and en­try from ¤ 17pp Sul­li­vans Song­house: Wed­nes­day and Satur­day 3- 5pm, ¤ 16pp Mo­bile Goat Ex­cur­sions: St John’s to Sal­monier Na­ture Park and Cape St Mary’s Eco­log­i­cal Re­serve, ¤ 118pp.

The Rooms: ¤ 6 adult en­try



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