Il rac­con­to più esclu­si­vo di Miya­ke

An In­ti­ma­te Por­trait of Miya­ke

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Is­sey Miya­ke vi­sto da mol­to vi­ci­no, rac­con­ta­to nel suo ge­nio e nel suo la­vo­ro da Mi­do­ri Ki­ta­mu­ra, pre­si­den­te del Miya­ke De­si­gn Stu­dio, al suo fian­co da qua­rant’an­ni. Il vo­lu­me rap­pre­sen­ta una ve­ra e pro­pria en­ci­clo­pe­dia che il­lu­stra le in­no­va­zio­ni di ma­te­ria­le e tec­no­lo­gi­che che han­no ca­rat­te­riz­za­to l’at­ti­vi­tà del de­si­gner giap­po­ne­se, le ri­cer­che de­di­ca­te al­la re­la­zio­ne tra cor­po e abi­ti, la ca­pa­ci­tà di fon­de­re tra­di­zio­ni, avan­guar­dia e fun­zio­ni. Un sag­gio di Ka­zu­ko Koi­ke, fi­gu­ra di spic­co nel pa­no­ra­ma cul­tu­ra­le giap­po­ne­se, già au­tri­ce di un li­bro su Miya­ke nel 1978, esplo­ra le am­bi­zio­ni e le ispi­ra­zio­ni che ne han­no gui­da­to le crea­zio­ni, ol­tre a ri­co­struir­ne in se­quen­za cro­no­lo­gi­ca la car­rie­ra. Le im­ma­gi­ni che cor­re­da­no la pub­bli­ca­zio­ne, fir­ma­te da Yu­ri­ko Ta­ka­gi, pre­sen­ta­no i ca­pi di Miya­ke nel­la lo­ro quo­ti­dia­na ori­gi­na­li­tà, in­te­gra­te da una spe­cia­le cam­pa­gna fo­to­gra­fi­ca rea­liz­za­ta in Islan­da. Pro­dot­to in mil­le esem­pla­ri nu­me­ra­ti, nel­la dop­pia lin­gua in­gle­se e giap­po­ne­se, Is­sey Miya­ke è im­pre­zio­si­to dal si­gil­lo dell’ar­ti­sta e con­te­nu­to in un’ori­gi­na­le bor­sa idea­ta dal Miya­ke’s Rea­li­ty Lab. (CM) A clo­se-up view of Is­sey Miya­ke, seen in terms of his ge­nius and his work by Mi­do­ri Ki­ta­mu­ra, who is pre­si­dent of the Miya­ke De­si­gn Stu­dio and has wor­ked along­si­de Miya­ke for for­ty years. The book is a ve­ri­ta­ble en­cy­clo­pae­dia of the materials and tech­no­lo­gi­cal in­no­va­tions that ha­ve cha­rac­te­ri­sed the work of the Ja­pa­ne­se de­si­gner, the re­sear­ch work that has been do­ne in­to the re­la­tion­ship bet­ween bo­dy and clo­thing, and the skil­ful fu­sion of the tra­di­tio­nal and mo­dern func­tio­na­li­ty. An es­say by Ka­zu­ko Koi­ke, a lea­ding fi­gu­re on the Ja­pa­ne­se cul­tu­ral sce­ne (she al­so wro­te a book about Miya­ke in 1978), ex­plo­res the am­bi­tions and in­spi­ra­tions that ha­ve dri­ven his re­per­toi­re, as well as gi­ving a com­ple­te chro­no­lo­gy of his ca­reer. Yu­ri­ko Ta­ka­gi’s stun­ning pho­to­gra­phs pre­sent Miya­ke’s gar­men­ts in their eve­ry­day ori­gi­na­li­ty, and in­clu­de ex­tra pho­tos from a spe­cial shoot in Ice­land. 1,000 si­gned co­pies of the bi-lin­gual book (in Ja­pa­ne­se and En­gli­sh), whi­ch is cal­led, qui­te sim­ply, Is­sey Miya­ke, is em­bel­li­shed by the de­si­gner’s per­so­nal seal and pre­sen­ted in an ori­gi­nal bag de­si­gned by Miya­ke’s Rea­li­ty Lab

Pe­ter Chad­wick

Ta­schen, 2016 pp. 514, € 750 www.ta­schen.com

Is­sey Miya­ke Is­sey Miya­ke, Mi­do­ri Ki­ta­mu­ra, Ka­zu­ko Koi­ke, Yu­ri­ko Ta­ka­gi

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