Start at Piazza Santa Maria Novella, to see Ghirlandaio’s altar masterpiece in the church (see Sites), then with your back to the church, exit the piazza right down Via della Scala and whip your purse out pronto for the very fab Farmacia Santa Maria Novella 100m up on the right at #16 (see Spa). Now cross and double back for a min and turn right into Via della Porcellana and trot to the intersection with Via Palazzuolo. Choices: cross and keep going on Porcellana to lunch at Sostanza (see Rest./Relaxed); or turn right onto Palazzuolo for pasta star Morioni at #56r / 055 239 6173, then carry on 3 mins for small leather goods at #136r Il Bussetto, and a further 5 mins to Leone (see Advanced Shopping). Otherwise, head left on Palazzuolo and turn right on Via dei Fossi for a slew of antique and interior lovelies including #41r Studio Dimore / 055 287 632 / studiodimore collection.com / with eclectic, elegant furnishings, then on the right at #7r nip into the courtyard Cortile Fossombroni, a jewel of quirky/kooky antique shops. Across the way, slide into custom brogues at #8r Bellosguardo / 055 808 9595, then on you go to hit Piazza Goldoni. On the left at the start of Via della Vigna Nuova is MarioLuca Giusti at #88r / 055 239 9527 / mariolucagiusti.com / with a kaleidoscope of bright plexi tableware in antique designs, then skip to leatherist Benheart at #97r / 055 260 8625 / benheart.it. Exit and go diagonal left up Via del Parione to pop a monumental carved fountain or Rape of the Sabines in your bag at Bazzanti #37r / 055 215 649 / galleriabazzanti.it – their customers span the Bellagio to the Kremlin! Aldo Coppola is on the left at #62r (see Spa), while Rilegatore Alberto Cozzi on the right at #35r / 055 294 968 / has beaut paper and bound books (and will happily monogram in gold leaf), plus Il Bisonte at #31r / 055 215 722 / crafts rugged amber Tuscan leather totes, bags, etc. Now, swivel right down Via Parioncino, then left on Lungarno Corsini to monochrome home heaven Flair at #24r (see Standout Stores). Hungry? Retrace back to Via del Parione and up to Mariano at #19r / 055 214 067 / for yumsome panini, then fire left under the archway into Volta della Vecchia and left into Via del Purgatorio for Cisternino on your right (see Sartorialista). Next, spy custom pages n’ accoutrements at Florentine Pineider / 4/7 Piazza Rucellai / 055 284 656 / pineider.com, then cross Via della Vigna Nuova, turn right at Etro onto Via dei Palchetti, then left down Via dei Federighi to find Il Micio at #6r (see Sartorialista). Retrace up Federighi until it widens at the Museo Marini / museomarinomarini.it. Totter right on Via della Spada for beaded throat and wrist candy at #38r Aprosio / 055 265 4077 / aprosio.it, then rainbow linings at #35r Marik (see Sartorialista), and a plethora of pashys, wraps and shawls at #24r Faliero Sarti / 055 239 6538. Turn left on Via delle Belle Donne and delight in vintage Dior, Laroche and Givenchy at #16r Retrouver / 055 210 618, then next door is cute Osteria Belle Donne / 055 238 2609, and a few doors up again is the back entrance to Loretta Caponi (see Stand. Stores). Retrace back to Via della Spada, and finish up with perfect caffè morrochino at Giacosa at #10r (see Bars), or Prossy and panini tartufati at Procacci (see Wine Bars) just three Italian pixie hops left around the corner on Via Tornabuoni (right side). Squisito, Paulo!