This once industrial wasteland has risen from its ashes into a Salone highlight and a shop n’ p-art-y playpen for edgy hipanistas. Note: before climbing the stairs to Tortona, you’re perfectly poised for a skip down Via Vigevano and a Navigli canal tour (see V. Useful).
Have your taxi drop you off at Via Tortona, 12. Nip into the courtyard and you’ll face a row of doors. Try avantgarde eatery Soho / 02 8356706 / right in front of you, or Home-Made / 02 8356706 / home-made.it / is the second door from the left, an airy designer furny showroomcum-resto for fresh Italian flaves. (Or take M: Genova, come out into Piazzale Stazione Genova and head straight, keeping the railway station on your left, after which are some green stairs on the left, crossing the railway tracks. Climb them, then turn left onto Via Tortona to join Home-Made). Replete, glide back out, noting ageold garden diner Osteria del Binari opposite at #1 / 02 89406753 / for dinner later, then cross over to design your own bright ‘O’ bag or watch at Fullspot at #12 / 347 8364680. Exit right to continue down the road to Melody Maker at #5 / 02 36554999 / on the left for street cred threads (m/w). Potter down a minute further and swing left into Via Forcella, skip like a pixie through the iron gates at the bottom at #7 and once in, turn right – glamazon outlet DMagazine (see Discount Designer) is the last building on the right. Push on past #6 Magna Pars Suites (see Accom.), turning right into Bugatti for a crafty gargle and bocce pitstop at Morna (see Wine Bars), then march on down Tortona till you reach Via Bergognone, where Giorgio, Ermenegildo and friends have HQs within a twoblock radius, and which accounts for the proliferation of leggy models strutting along this stark, industrial strip. Laboratori Scala Ansaldo (see Activities) is on the right cnr, and on the left, check out art spaces and Salone centrepoints My Own Gallery and Superstudio Più / 02 422501 / superstudiogroup.com / at #27. Gallop straight ahead on Tortona for the unapologetically hip Nhow hotel at #35 / 02 4898861 / for beverages among the raily bods coming from fittings, or take the next right into Via Stendhal to ruby sip box Gibilterra at #30 / 02 425888. Exit right and turn right again into Via Savona to find the sleek Fiore at #59 / 02 48955382 / which does delish risottos, or trot further down to #50 Al Fresco (see Rest./Smart) with its lovely garden and feel-good fare. Pushing on yet more you’ll spy #17 121+ Libreria ex Temporanea / 02 36584119 / with beaut art, design, archi and food tomes for the whole fam. Further along at #11 is creative hang Design Library complete with a neat café / 02 89421225. Opposite is Papel at #12 / 02 89429293 / a gallery and bookstore specialising in printing and illustration, and classroom-cool Sicilian bites are yours at #10 Langosteria 10 / 02 58111649. Now, if you’ve made an appointment with the sock-knocking Giorgio Vigna (see Advanced Shop.), turn right at the intersection with Tortona and hop into #4, if not, keep going up Savona for violet hour drink-lets at buzzy Frog Café #2 / 02 58110312. Bravo, Beppe!