This upcomer area has bags of atmos, some great antiques and funkster shopping away from the drip-dry, leisuresuited Spagna masses. Start at Piazza Madonna dei Monti, home to local fave La Bottega del Caffè / 06 474 1578. With your back to the caffè, cross the piazza to the right corner to find B at #1 / 06 4782 6335 / a shop devoted to black n' white gal threads. Exit and skip past the fountain down Via Serpenti, then pop a left into Via Leonina – cocoa maniacs sashay forward to the scarlet Bottega del Cioccolato at #82 / 06 482 1473 / who serve it up liquid and hot, as well as in morsel sizes. A moment on those hips, Babs... Further up at #25 Antichita has a nosegay of chandies and vintage bits n' bobs, and at #42 Super / 06 4544 8500 / has a tiny but chipper display of T's and casuals. Retrace your way back down Leonina and turn right into Via dell' Angeletto (aka Boschetto) and then right again on to Via degli Zingari where Contesta Rock Hair at #9 features Oz fash in a salon-cum-boutique. Across at #61a is Ultrasuoni Records / 06 4745485 / with synth, electro, new age n' more all on vinyl. On you go to find boho hipsters' java joint Libreria at #36. Next up, get licky at the divine Fatamorgana (see Gelateria) at Piazza degli Zingari. Calorie-tastic! On your left now is Via dei Capocci, home to romantic little Crostaceria Ipanema at #26 / 06 482 4758, but for now, carry on downhill and left onto Via Urbana (famed for its ladies of the night since the C.1st – that's a whole heap of 'hos, honey). Toddle along and presently on your left you'll espy at #93 the little Bar Monti caffè, Studio Cassio – Arte di Mosaico (see Adv. Shop.) at #98, and check out the lovely vintage faces at #103 L'Artigianaio Orologiai / 06 474 2284. In need of refreshment? Across at #47 is funkster Urbana 47 (see Rest./ Relaxed) perfetto for brekky, lunch or aperitivi, or take out at Urbana 47's next door Drogheria. Carry on to #27 for ‘artistic glass' at Silice / 06 474 5552 / they make to order just about anything from stained glass to vitreous screens. DOP next door at #25 is a concept store with luxe labels and minimally-styled clothing from Japan, Germany and Italy. Across the street at #126 is Tricolore Monti (see Lunch) for cooking courses, gourmet sarnies and picnic baskets. Grezzo next at #130 peddles a world of raw cacao / 06 483 443; Moll Flanders at #132 / 349 217 7817 / is home to haute vintage couture; and Aromaticus at #134 / 06 488 1355 / is a gardener's delight. Next up, suave Mimmo Siviglia at #14a / 348 871 0079 / has handtailored shirts. Totter now to the end to find sassy Smalto on the right at #12a / 06 488 2049 – hold your acqua gals, it's time for fab footwear, sexy boots and cocktails (once a week in winter). Turn left at the end of Urbana onto Via Panisperna for the simply sinful La Carbonara at #214 (see Rest./Relaxed), and funky togs at dishy Le Gallinelle Abito on your right at #61. Carry on now to the cnr of Boschetto. Choices. Zip right up to Colpo di Tacco #15a / 348 599 6939 / for more shoe-oohs; lovely rare book store La Gru at #20 / 334 901 3091; and Perlei at #35 / 06 4891 3862 / with artisan baubles; or left down Boschetto for sparkly trinkets at #148 Fabio Piccioni / 06 474 1697 / and a natty fig n' cheese sarnie at #112 Gaudeo (see Lunch).
Or, if you're drier than a cardinal's zucchetto, skip along Panisperna to find ivy-clad Ai Tre Scalini (see Wine Bars) on the left at #251 / 06 4890 7495. This happening110-yearold enoteca is your reward for being a Leggy Lovely. Or, zip back to hip Urbana 47 and park your lalls. Cin cin!