Chef: In­ter­viewing Chef Ra­che­la Bor­rel­li

Superyacht - - What’s On - By Mar­ti­no Mot­ti

Whi­ch part of the world do you co­me from? I co­me from Ce­ri­gno­la a small to­wn in Southern Ita­ly near Fog­gia. I grew up the­re and I’m now li­ving in Fa­no. How did you get ac­quain­ted wi­th the sea? Cu­rio­si­ty ba­si­cal­ly, af­ter ha­ving wor­ked in re­stau­ran­ts and ho­tels for mo­re than twen­ty years, I felt a sin­ce­re need to chan­ge, to try so­me­thing new, so­me­thing mo­re whi­le ex­pe­rien­cing sti­mu­la­ting ex­pe­rien­ces and new chal­len­ges. Your trai­ning? I went to a Ho­te­lier and ca­te­ring school and then went on ac­qui­ring ex­pe­rien­ce in the field. I took part in se­ve­ral up­gra­ding cour­ses ai­med at de­ve­lo­ping spe­cial areas. I be­lie­ve the be­st trai­ning is gai­ned when you are cu­rious, tra­vel and are sen­si­ti­ve. Whi­ch are your ear­lie­st re­col­lec­tions about coo­king and ca­te­ring? They go back to the ti­mes I li­ved in the fa­mi­ly, whe­re we al­ways used to try ea­ting in the heal­thie­st pos­si­ble way by using top qua­li­ty pro­duc­ts whi­ch we pro­du­ced in hou­se sin­ce we had a farm.this en­tai­led fir­st pick on eve­ry­thing from so­wing to har­ve­sting whi­ch in­clu­ded fruit and ve­ge­ta­bles, as well as ho­me­ma­de oil and wi­ne.to put it in a nu­tshell I’d say we we­re ac­cu­sto­med to ea­ting heal­thy and well. Your ini­tial ex­pe­rien­ces at sea? My fir­st con­tract goes back to a 35 me­tre yacht 10 years ago. It be­gan al­mo­st li­ke a ga­me whi­ch ra­pid­ly evol­ved in­to my li­fe sty­le. Pre­ce­ding ex­pe­rien­ces prior to this one? Well fol­lo­wing the fir­st one, I wor­ked on a char­ter yacht fly­ing the Ita­lian en­si­gn.then I mo­ved on to se­ve­ral other ya­ch­ts, in the cour­se of ti­me I step­ped on board of Rarity on whi­ch I ha­ve now been wor­king for four years wi­th mu­ch job sa­ti­sfac­tion. The ow­ners ap­pre­cia­te what I do and I get along well wi­th them. Ac­cor­ding to you whi­ch are the main dif­fe­ren­ces bet­ween run­ning a kit­chen asho­re as op­po­sed to doing the sa­me on board of a su­pe­rya­cht? Ba­si­cal­ly the­re are two main dif­fe­ren­ces: fir­st and fo­re­mo­st spa­ce and equi­p­ment. On board spa­ce is de­ci­ded­ly less when com­pa­red to any re­stau­rant on land. Se­cond­ly the kit­chen staff. On land the num­ber of peo­ple as­si­sting the chef are mo­re, whe­reas this does not hap­pen at lea­st on ya­ch­ts of this si­ze. I do eve­ry­thing my­self. To do this you mu­st be able to pos­sess and im­ple­ment your or­ga­ni­za­tio­nal skills. Coo­king on board is de­ci­ded­ly ex­ci­ting even da­ring in a sea way. So­me­ti­mes, you real­ly ha­ve to ma­ke the mo­st of eve­ry lit­tle avai­la­ble spa­ce, and the crew’s help is fun­da­men­tal in the ser­ving pha­se. Whi­ch are Rarity’s gal­ley main fea­tu­res? Fir­stly si­ze, it’s on the small si­ze, but af­ter a cou­ple of sea­sons I got used to it and I can now real­ly work well. I can count on top le­vel equi­p­ment from mul­ti func­tion ovens whi­ch can steam cook as well and can hand­le va­cuu­med pro­duc­ts al­so.the­re’s a ve­ry use­ful bla­st chil­ler, hi­ghly evol­ved frid­ges and ba­ber­cue grills too. Fa­vou­ri­te re­ci­pe? I ha­ven’t real­ly got a fa­vou­ri­te one, al­so be­cau­se crea­ting di­shes is an on going thing whi­ch evol­ves all the ti­me. I be­lie­ve that “cui­si­ne” al­so means try­ing things out eve­ry ti­me you can, so cu­rio­si­ty and de­si­re to ex­pe­ri­ment are fun­da­men­tal in­gre­dien­ts, a kind of art in other words. I en­joy going over clas­sic di­shes or ra­ther I mean re-in­ven­ting them in terms of pre­sen­ta­tion and even in the pre­pa­ra­tion se­quen­ce so­me­ti­mes. For exam­ple the ca­ke I ha­ve ju­st pre­pa­red is an off shoot of a clas­sic “ti­ra­mi­sù” whi­ch is pre­sen­ted in a plain cho­co­la­te bo­wl li­ke re­ci­pient I ma­de ear­lier wi­th “ma­scar­po­ne” za­ba­glio­ne (egg ba­sed cream), crun­chy wa­fer wi­th puf­fed ri­ce, ho­ney and a “gar­nis” ma­de up of the sea­son’s wild ber­ries on top. He­re, on board of Rarity,we do eve­ry­thing in hou­se from bread to knea­ding flour to pro­du­ce a va­rie­ty of pa­sta.i en­joy being crea­ti­ve, that’s why I pre­fer to cook star­ters and ca­kes whi­ch lea­ve am­ple spa­ce for en­han­ced crea­ti­vi­ty. What “cui­si­ne”do you pre­fer to go for and wi­th whi­ch in­gre­dien­ts? Ten­den­cy, yes strong ten­den­cy “cui­si­ne” it’s a new thing whi­ch we’re cur­ren­tly still di­sco­ve­ring and ex­pe­ri­men­ting in small num­bers, and we use ma­ri­ne plank­ton in re­ci­pes.this na­tu­ral pro­duct can be de­ployed in ma­ny dif­fe­rent ways, it’s hi­ghly ver­sa­ti­le and can un­lea­sh your fan­ta­sy: it blends well wi­th “ri­sot­to”, a va­rie­ty of sau­ces, se­ve­ral si­de di­shes and mo­re. It is an ou­tstan­ding re­sour­ce, it seems to chan­ge fla­vour ac­cor­ding to how it is pre­pa­red. You can ea­si­ly ima­gi­ne you’re ea­ting fish, al­gae, or even a lob­ster or shell­fi­sh...it’s ve­ry in­te­re­sting and amu­sing too. Ob­viou­sly the in­ter­pre­ta­tion is per­so­nal. Its ta­ste clear­ly re­veals whe­re it co­mes from, it’s a strong one but it is al­so smoo­th.to me it ta­stes good and I li­ked it im­me­dia­te­ly. Whi­ch “cui­si­ne” do you pre­fer, bet­ween the one you do for the ow­ner and his guests or the one

you do for char­ter par­ties? The­re’s de­ci­ded­ly mo­re free­dom in the me­nu de­di­ca­ted to char­ter par­ties. The­re’s a pre­fe­ren­ce li­sting to fol­low, but you are free to in­vent and chan­ge whi­le re­spec­ting co­re di­shes. Whe­ther it be a char­ter par­ty for ju­st a week or a mon­th – no mat­ter you ha­ve to prop­se dif­fe­rent di­shes all the ti­me, and to asto­ni­sh eve­ry ti­me. On the other hand wi­th the ow­ner and guests things are quie­ter. At the be­gin­ning of the sea­son I draw up a li­st of the mo­re tren­dy di­shes, but du­ring the day to day I pro­po­se di­shes the ow­ners and guests en­joy wi­th no­thing “Qui­xo­tic” about them. From ti­me to ti­me I de­li­ver so­me­thing whi­ch to them is unu­sual. When the ow­ners or­ga­ni­ze sea­ted din­ners wi­th guests, things get to be ve­ry dif­fe­rent, in tho­se ca­ses I mu­st asto­ni­sh them all, whi­ch I find ve­ry amu­sing, and gi­ves me great sa­ti­sfac­tion. Your wor­st ex­pe­rien­ce as Chef? Co­me to think of it, it ma­kes me smi­le still. I re­mem­ber mo­re a spe­cial gue­st, a VIP or fa­mous per­son wi­th whom I was di­scus­sing the de­tails of a me­nu. Any­way, one af­ter­noon we we­re de­ci­ding on the me­nu for that sa­me night whi­ch con­si­sted in a se­ries of ve­ry ela­bo­ra­te di­shes whi­ch in­clu­ded shell­fi­sh, lob­sters and eve­ry other de­li­ca­cy. Eve­ry one was com­for­ta­bly sea­ted, the­re we­re ma­ny guests, but the la­dy ho­sting the din­ner is not spea­king, and is the­re ju­st loo­king at me whi­le I’m in­tent on ex­plai­ning what di­shes are about to be brought up to the ta­ble....well she ge­ts up wi­thout say­ing a word turns about and goes asho­re wi­th her chil­dren and bo­dy guards. One of them ca­me up to me in the gal­ley area and en­qui­red, away from ear shot as to what, had I ever do­ne... Af­ter an hour and a half the sho­re par­ty re­tur­ned, and I was be­si­de my­self and asked her hap­pe­ned, and what went wrong.“No­thing” – is what she said, and went on to say:“i ju­st felt li­ke ta­king a stroll”. Whe­re do you find ship’s sto­res, fre­sh pro­duc­ts and out of the or­di­na­ry in­gre­dien­ts that are re­qui­red to pre­pa­re your di­shes? In the ports we stop over, I al­ways seek out the mo­st ty­pi­cal sto­res whe­re I choo­se things ba­sed fir­stly on how they smell, and the what they look li­ke. In ita­ly the­re is no pro­blem, the qua­li­ty is ve­ry hi­gh and the choi­ce is va­st. In Fran­ce for exam­ple, li­ke in Gree­ce, Croa­tia, and Mon­te­ne­gro it is dif­fi­cult to find pro­duc­ts of the sa­me le­vel as in Ita­ly, as they of­ten fall short of eve­ry ex­pec­tan­cy.the­re­fo­re fin­ding ca­pa­ble and re­lia­ble sup­pliers be­co­mes a ne­ces­si­ty and is the ob­vious so­lu­tion.we use di­ver­se ef­fi­cient com­pa­nies ac­cu­sto­med to pro­vi­de for ya­ch­ts. We’ve al­ways found Plus Ma­ri­ne ve­ry hel­p­ful and equal­ly re­sour­ce­ful. Fi­la­del­fio, Ma­rie and the boys ha­ve ne­ver let us do­wn, even du­ring hi­gh sea­son they ha­ve al­ways de­li­ve­red the ”im­pos­si­ble” in re­cord ti­me, and the qua­li­ty I re­que­st for me­ga­ya­ch­ts.

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