Fa­shion & Sty­le - Won­der­land Ca­pri


Superyacht - - WHAT’S ON - By Cri­sti­na Ca­me­ra­ni

Ca­pri, via Ca­me­rel­le…the island’s Ro­deo Dri­ve, is re­no­w­ned for being one of the world’s mo­st po­pu­lar and gos­si­ped stree­ts in the world when it co­mes to lu­xu­ry shop­ping thanks to hun­dreds of ve­ry im­por­tant peo­ple who ta­ke to that street in the cour­se of eve­ry sum­mer.this island is equal­ly re­no­w­ned for its sheer li­mi­tless beau­ty, ele­gan­ce, and is fa­shio­na­bly tren­dy al­ways. Ju­st a lit­tle be­fo­re co­ming to the Pom­peia­na Bar the­re was Won­der­land Ca­pri, a for­mer di­sco whi­ch has sin­ce been tran­sfor­med in­to a con­cept sto­re spe­cia­li­sed in cer­ti­fied vin­ta­ge lu­xu­ry ac­ces­so­ries ow­ned by sty­li­st and fa­shion con­sul­tant Ales­san­dro Ruoc­co a na­ti­ve of the island. The sto­re of­fers a va­st ran­ge of fa­shio­na­ble, ori­gi­nal uni­que ac­ces­so­ries. In the cour­se of this ex­clu­si­ve in­ter­view we’ll be di­sco­ve­ring this sto­re’s “rai­son d’etre,” po­li­cy, and may­be what’s in sto­re for this in­ter­na­tio­nal­ly hi­ghly ex­clu­si­ve lu­xu­ry cor­ner. How did the idea of ope­ning a vin­ta­ge bou­ti­que in Ca­pri da­wn on you? Es­sen­tial­ly the idea ca­me from this in­na­te pas­sion I pos­sess. I don’t be­lie­ve this is a job you can do well if the­re’s no pas­sion be­hind it. I’ve al­ways had mo­re than a”pen­chant” for vin­ta­ge pro­per, not on­ly in terms of clo­thing but al­so in in­te­rior de­co­ra­ting. I in­he­ri­ted this from my fa­ther when I was ve­ry young in fact I’d find any pre­text du­ring my teens to get away, may­be even ju­st for a week end to look for things in the li­kes of hand­bags, jewels from re­no­w­ned brands, bel­ts, glas­ses, ha­ts, scar­ves, and a who­le lot of ac­ces­so­ries. even abroad. So­me­ti­mes I’d buy small an­ti­que ob­jec­ts and mo­dern ones. As ti­me went by I bought mo­re as this pas­sion of mi­ne grew and grew and so I built a con­si­de­ra­ble net­work of use­ful con­tac­ts around the world. Won­der­land’s spa­ces ha­ve a long track re­cord… I don’t li­ke to ha­ve things that would be pu­shed in­to peo­ple’s fa­ces, do you know what I mean, what I was loo­king for was an aty­pi­cal new spot whi­ch would al­low me to crea­te eve­ry­thing from no­thing I con­si­der my­self ve­ry luc­ky in fin­ding this pla­ce whi­ch had ori­gi­nal­ly been a di­sco and it has seen ge­ne­ra­tion af­ter ge­ne­ra­tion dan­ce till da­wn bet­ween its four walls.to me it is a spe­cial pla­ce be­cau­se I ce­le­bra­ted my 18th bir­th­day he­re, ma­de friends and so­me ha­ve be­co­me my be­st friends, got ter­ri­bly drunk and... bet­ween the­se walls I had drinks wi­th Beyon­cé of all peo­ple! Well the pla­ce was la­ter shut do­wn for se­ve­ral years and to­day I’m hap­py to ha­ve brought it back to li­fe. How do you in­ter­pret this cat­chy trend for things vin­ta­ge? Now mo­re than ever be­fo­re vin­ta­ge marks a re­turn from the pa­st whi­ch will pro­ba­bly ne­ver die. Vin­ta­ge to me is a que­st for qua­li­ty, see­king uni­que­ness and per­so­na­li­ty as well. It means you can con­firm and un­der­sco­re the fact you pos­sess your ve­ry own sty­le, that you choo­se to dress ac­cor­ding to your sen­se of ta­ste and per­so­nal sty­le, be­cau­se you re­frain from ac­cep­ting in to­tal mass pro­du­ced wear. It al­so means ad­ding a pin­ch of uni­que­ness to eve­ry out­fit in­clu­ding ac­ces­so­ries that can tell you a sto­ry or two. What’s Won­der­land’s po­li­cy? The sa­me as any other sto­re: to sa­ti­sfy clien­ts, pro­vi­ding them wi­th uni­que ob­jec­ts and ori­gi­nal and re­fi­ned ideas, whe­ther they’re vin­ta­ge or con­tem­po­ra­ry. I want that whoe­ver buys from me kno­ws that whe­re­ver she walks, she will ne­ver ha­ve to say:“she sto­le my look”.. What sort of vin­ta­ge col­lec­tions and ac­ces­so­ries are you cur­ren­tly pro­po­sing at Won­der­land? I be­lie­ve that all that Won­der­land has in­si­de the bou­ti­que is uni­que... skins, fi­ne fa­brics, whe­re craf­ted things from way back are re­pre­sen­ta­ti­ve of Won­der­land’s main mood. He­re you can find Louis Vuit­ton lug­ga­ge, or Her­mes pur­ses from the swin­ging six­ties, from Fa­ber­gé ci­ga­ret­te ca­ses to tho­se lar­ge bra­ce­le­ts from the se­ven­ties in ba­ke­li­te, from Va­len­ti­no’s and Bob Mac­kie’s haut cou­tu­re out­fi­ts to Ver­sa­ce’s mul­ti­co­lou­red silk shirts from the eighties. What’s you cri­te­ria in di­vi­ding the clo­thes you sho­w­ca­se?

I do my be­st to of­fer the am­ple­st choi­ce pos­si­ble, then the client looks for what she wan­ts. Then the­re are so­me that know how to look for so­me­thing and mu­st be left alo­ne and tho­se who are in­ca­pa­ble of doing so and ap­pre­cia­te a pre-se­lec­tion. I pre­fer to car­ry out a wider re­sear­ch. I choo­se clo­thes di­rec­tly in my clien­ts’ war­dro­bes or in the ones of my clo­se­st sup­pliers. As for hand­bags, I ha­ve so­meo­ne who af­ter my ‘pre-viewed’ se­lec­tion di­spen­ses ex­per­ti­se and ad­vi­ce. Ge­ne­ral­ly I al­so choo­se on the ba­sis of qua­li­ty and en­du­ran­ce over ti­me: the ob­ject I choo­se mu­st ha­ve ‘li­fe’ in it or has to be able to co­me back to li­fe wi­th a lit­tle treat­ment pe­rhaps. What’s mo­re im­por­tant to me, what in­te­rests me is that a gi­ven pie­ce can li­ve on­ce mo­re. Can you re­call one of the mo­st spe­cial pie­ces of clo­thing that went th­rou­gh Won­der­land? Well I ha­ve had loads of pie­ces wi­th a sto­ry be­hind them, but the one I lo­st my heart to is su­re­ly a cor­set from the eighties wi­th Vi­vien­ne We­st­wood’s ini­tials on it. It is bat­te­ned wi­th wha­le bo­nes and re-li­ned in vi­mi­ni and is co­ve­red over wi­th geor­get­te prin­ted silk. Your con­cept of fa­shion? To me fa­shion is cu­rio­si­ty for what’s new, at­ten­tion to de­tails and chan­ge whi­ch should mir­ror evo­lu­tion th­rou­gh ti­me spa­ce. All of this ac­cor­ding to me mu­st be ac­com­pa­nied by/wi­th sty­le be­cau­se as Co­co Cha­nel used to say: “Fa­shions chan­ge, sty­le re­mains” and if you wi­sh to be di­ver­se in li­fe you need sty­le and streng­th of cha­rac­ter, for the­se re­main th­rou­gh ti­me. I am con­vin­ced that fa­shion is a way th­rou­gh whi­ch you can ex­press your­self, stand out of the cho­rus li­ne and be uni­que. For me fa­shion is 10% what you wear and 90% how you wear it. What’s Won­der­land’s tar­get in terms of clien­te­le? Our clien­ts are es­sen­tial­ly ve­ry eclec­tic and in­ter­na­tio­nal and this al­so af­fec­ts my choi­ces, sin­ce they ha­ve to sa­ti­sfy and be com­pliant to a chan­ging and wider au­dien­ce. To­day the va­lue of so­me­thing vin­ta­ge be it a silk scarf or a hat is no lon­ger gi­ven by the brand it bears on the la­bel, qua­li­ty or craf­tsman­ship but on the emo­tion it pro­du­ces. I’ve se­lec­ted sui­ts, out­fi­ts, for­mal dress and mo­re for Royal Fa­mi­lies, sin­gers, Djs, in­ter­na­tio­nal mu­si­cians, en­tre­pre­neurs from di­ver­se parts of the world, Hol­ly­wood ce­le­bri­ties, but for me the in­gre­dien­ts are: strong per­so­na­li­ty wi­th the will to da­re. Af­ter all as La­ger­feld pu­ts it: “fa­shion is on­ly a ga­me whi­ch mu­st be ta­ken se­riou­sly”. Won­der­land Ca­pri is not on­ly vin­ta­ge… Things vin­ta­ge re­main one of our ma­jor fea­tu­res, the­re’s no doubt on that, but our con­cept has al­ways been to mix vin­ta­ge wi­th new de­si­gners’ works. We ha­ve loads of ta­lent from the four cor­ners of the world and al­so ma­ny Ita­lian ones and from Ca­pri as well. We ha­ve no pro­blems of spa­ce he­re so we can gi­ve mo­re vi­si­bi­li­ty to new sty­lists, to main clas­sics and to that whi­ch ex­pres­ses our own idea of fa­shion. One of Won­der­land’s main fea­tu­res is that among so­me of the uni­que vin­ta­ge pie­ces and the ex­pres­sions of new young ta­lent, the­re’s al­ways so­me­thing new to find eve­ry week. What’s Ruoc­co’s in­ter­pre­ta­tion of “lu­xu­ry”? Lu­xu­ry is emo­tion. It is the fee­ling you ex­pe­rien­ce af­ter ha­ving li­ved any uni­que ex­pe­rien­ce. It can be gi­ven by a ty­pe of shoe, by a jewel, dress or event but it mu­st al­ways ma­ke you feel uni­que and spe­cial. Fu­tu­re pro­jec­ts? I li­ve on a day to day ba­sis and I ha­te to plan. I don’t de­bar any­thing at all. As for work I con­si­der my­self in­tui­ti­ve and di­ve head fir­st in­to eve­ry pro­ject I be­lie­ve in. What’s your mot­to? Wha­te­ver you do, do it wi­th pas­sion. www.won­der­lan­d­ca­pri.it

BE­NET­TI’S LAUN­CHES – Be­net­ti’s sum­mer is a vi­go­rous one. In the cour­se of the­se pa­st few mon­ths the hi­sto­ri­cal Via­reg­gio shi­pyard laun­ched four ya­ch­ts. The fir­st one to hit the wa­ter was “Bla­ke” the 50 me­tre full cu­stom mo­to­rya­cht whi­ch is the lar­ge­st GRP and alu­mi­nium ya­cht Be­net­ti has laun­ched up un­til now. The pro­ject de­si­gn work was car­ried out wi­th Lon­don ba­sed stu­dio Ban­nen­berg & Ro­well De­si­gn.the se­cond one “Zeh­ra” is the third Del­fi­no 95’ mo­del, she’s 29 me­tres long wi­th a beam of 7. The ex­te­riors are by Gior­gio M. Cas­set­ta. The next one to hit the wa­ter was the nin­th mo­del of the Cry­stal 140’ (loa 42m) fir­st in­tro­du­ced in 2011 whi­ch the yard drew up wi­th de­si­gner Ste­fa­no Ri­ghi­ni and Pier­lui­gi Au­so­nio Na­val Ar­chi­tec­tu­re. Whe­reas Ju­ly la­st Be­net­ti an­noun­ced the de­li­ve­ry of “Cha­ra­de” the six­th of the Fa­st 125’ li­ne, a 38 me­tre de­ve­lo­ped from a D2P di­spla­ce­ment to Pla­ning hull po­we­red by a pair of Azi­pul Car­bon 65. Ste­fa­no Ri­ghi­ni drew up the ex­te­rior li­nes of this ya­cht whi­le Bri­ti­sh stu­dio RWD hand­led the in­te­riors. For fur­ther in­for­ma­tion: www.be­net­tiya­ch­ts.it AMEL DE­LI­VERS VOL­PI­NI 2 – De­li­ve­red in Ju­ne and sent off to the Mo­na­co Ya­cht Show, “Vol­pi­ni 2” is the fir­st Amels from the 188 Spe­cial Edi­tion li­ne and al­so the fir­st hy­brid su­pe­rya­cht in the world to com­ply wi­th Tier III norm. She’s 57.7 me­tres long wi­th a beam of 10.6. “Vol­pi­ni 2” sports Tim Hey­wood’s ex­te­riors and Rey­mond Lang­ton’s in­te­riors. For fur­ther in­for­ma­tion: www.amels-hol­land.com A DUCHESS GOES TO SEA – Amer Ya­cht’s four­teen­th from the Amer Cen­to li­ne “Du­ches­sa” hit the wa­ter on Ju­ly 11th... She fea­tu­res Art Dè­co craf­ted in­te­riors by this pre­cious Ita­lian firm. “Du­ches­sa” sports as ma­ny as four IPS 1200 mo­tors and will be at­ten­ding the Can­nes Yachting Fe­sti­val and the Ge­noa in­ter­na­tio­nal Boat Show. For fur ther in­for­ma­tion: www. ame­rya­cht. com CCN LAUN­CHES TH­REE MO­RE – Fol­lo­wing the laun­ching at CCN’S Car­ra­ra pre­mi­ses of 40 me­tre “Kan­ga” whi­ch will be ex­hi­bi­ted at the co­ming MYS, CCN 105’ Fly­ing­sport mo­del “Fran­ce­sca” be­lon­ging to a nor­th Ame­ri­can ow­ner and 27 me­tre “Free­dom” de­si­gned by Tom­ma­so Spa­do­li­ni for Ita­lian sty­li­st Ro­ber­to Ca­val­li will be pre­sen­ted at the MYS. Al­so by Spa­do­li­ni 31 me­tre “Fran­ce­sca” boasts a top speed of mo­re than 40 kno­ts. “Free­dom” is an alu­mi­nium one- off po­we­red up wi­th hy­dro- je­ts and is ca­pa­ble

of rea­ching 40 kno­ts. For fur ther in­for­ma­tion: www. cer­ri­can­tie­ri­na­va­li. it SHU HAS COM­PLE­TED SEA TRIALS – Due for de­li­ve­ry this au­tumn, “Shu” has re­cen­tly un­der­go­ne a se­ries of sea trials in the Bal­tic Sea. This is a 36 me­tre built by Lürs­sen in Ger­ma­ny, the pro­ject de­si­gn work for this po­wer­ful ya­cht was car­ried out by Esper Oei­no and Mark Ber­ry­man. “Shu has met eve­ry re­que­st ma­de by her ex­pert ow­ner, who­se in­put was clear and pre­cious. Buil­ding “Shu” has been a de­man­ding chal­len­ge and we are proud of the re­sul­ts ob­tai­ned. This pro­ject to us is ano­ther im­por­tant mi­le sto­ne” ad­ded Pe­ter Lürs­sen. For fur ther in­for­ma­tion: www. lurs­sen. com

HEE­SEN DE­LI­VERS OMAHA – Hee­sen de­li­ve­red 50 me­tre “Omaha” la­st Ju­ne. She’s the fir­st of the 50 me­tre Steel Class from this re­no­w­ned Dut­ch shi­pyard. Clear­ly an evo­lu­tion from the pre­ce­ding 47 me­tre class, “Omaha” sports an at­trac­ti­ve ex­te­rior de­si­gn by Clif­ford Denn whi­le si­ster­ship “Pro­ject Tri­ton” is sche­du­led for de­li­ve­ry in 2020. For fur­ther in­for­ma­tion: www.hee­se­nya­ch­ts.com FLY­ING DAG­GER II HI­TS THE WA­TER – Ros­si­na­vi has re­cen­tly laun­ched 50 me­tre “Fly­ing Dag­ger II” a full cu­stom, de­si­gned by En­ri­co Gob­bi from Team4­de­si­gn and Laz­za­ri­ni Pic­ke­ring Ar­chi­tet­ti. Thanks to th­ree po­wer­ful en­gi­nes this ya­cht, whi­ch will be ex­hi­bi­ted at the Mo­na­co Ya­cht Show, is ca­pa­ble of rea­ching 31 kno­ts. For fur­ther in­for­ma­tion: www.ros­si­na­vi.it SAN­LO­REN­ZO’S RE­CORDS – San­lo­ren­zo, is ce­le­bra­ting its 60th an­ni­ver­sa­ry this year in a big way. This re­no­w­ned Ita­lian yard, has laun­ched a re­cord num­ber of ya­ch­ts. Ju­st bet­ween Mar­ch and Ju­ne la­st, Ros­si­na­vi has laun­ched as ma­ny as 15 ya­ch­ts, two of the­se are from the pla­ning SL78 and SL96 li­nes and th­ree from the SL86 li­ne, plus two di­spla­cing na­vet­te the SD126 and one SD112 and th­ree cros­so­vers from the new SX88 li­ne. The­re’s al­so an SL86 E Mo­tion from the hy­brid ran­ge whi­ch was laun­ched in la­st Ja­nua­ry. Du­ring the sum­mer a fur­ther ni­ne uni­ts hit the wa­ter among whi­ch the­re was al­so the four­th of the ex­plo­rer460exp mo­del as well as the se­cond ya­cht of the 52Steel mo­del wi­th a com­ple­te­ly re­newed stern. San­lo­ren­zo’s new 500Exp whi­ch will be pre­viewed at the MYS al­so hit the wa­ter. For fur­ther in­for­ma­tion: www.san­lo­ren­zoya­cht.com

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