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VOGUE Accessori - - CONTENTS - by da­nie­la fa­gno­la

Non un sem­pli­ce oro­lo­gio, ma un “clas­si­co” fra gli og­get­ti d’ar­te del No­ve­cen­to. Di­se­gna­to du­ran­te la Gran­de Guer­ra da Louis Car­tier, il Tank s’ispi­ra ai car­ri ar­ma­ti Re­nault e di­ven­ta su­bi­to un sim­bo­lo di modernità. Pre­cor­re l’Art Dé­co e ha un’este­ti­ca in­con­fon­di­bi­le: cas­sa geo­me­tri­ca, bran­card al­lun­ga­ti a in­glo­ba­re gli at­tac­chi del cin­tu­ri­no, qua­dran­te con nu­me­ri romani, sca­la dei mi­nu­ti a bi­na­rio, lan­cet­te az­zur­ra­te al­la fiam­ma, zaf­fi­ro ca­bo­chon sul­la co­ro­na. Que­sti se­gni di­stin­ti­vi, ben de­fi­ni­ti fin dall’ini­zio, ri­tor­na­no nel­le sue evo­lu­zio­ni: dal Tank Chi­noi­se, orien­ta­leg­gian­te, al Tank Cin­trée, più lun­go e ar­cua­to; dal Tank Louis Car­tier, con bor­di ar­ro­ton­da­ti, fi­no ai re­cen­ti Tank Amé­ri­cai­ne, ret­tan­go­la­re, o Tank Fra­nçai­se, con brac­cia­le me­tal­li­co. E si ri­tro­va­no tut­to­ra nel­le edi­zio­ni del cen­te­na­rio.

Mo­re a “clas­sic” among 20th-cen­tu­ry art ob­jec­ts than a me­re wat­ch. De­si­gned by Louis Car­tier

Com­pie 100 anni il Tank di Car­tier. Un CULT dell’oro­lo­ge­ria

du­ring WWI, the Tank took in­spi­ra­tion from Re­nault tanks and be­ca­me an in­stant sym­bol of mo­dern sty­le. It was a pre­cur­sor to Art De­co and has an un­mi­sta­ka­ble ae­sthe­tic wi­th a geo­me­tric ca­se, elon­ga­ted bran­cards that in­cor­po­ra­te the strap, a che­min de fer chap­ter ring, sword-sha­ped blued steel hands and a sap­phi­re ca­bo­chon sur­moun­ted cro­wn. The­se di­stinc­ti­ve trai­ts, whi­ch ha­ve stood out sin­ce the be­gin­ning, ha­ve been re­pro­du­ced in the va­rious in­car­na­tions: from the Asian-in­spi­red Tank Chi­noi­se, to the lon­ger, mo­re cur­ved Tank Cin­trée; from the Tank Louis Car­tier wi­th roun­ded ed­ges to the mo­st re­cent rec­tan­gu­lar Tank Ame­ri­cai­ne or the Tank Fra­nçai­se wi­th a me­tal­lic bra­ce­let. The cen­ten­nial edi­tions al­so boa­st the­se fea­tu­res.

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