sep 2017this sea­son’s the­me nov

VOGUE Accessori - - SEASON’S THEME - By Ma­ri­stel­la Cam­pi

per­si­no ag­gres­si­va quan­do stret­ta nel suo tail­leur-co­raz­za dal­le spal­le lar­ghe, af­fi­na le sue ar­mi di po­te­re e se­du­zio­ne an­che at­tra­ver­so l’esi­bi­zio­ne di anel­li, orec­chi­ni, brac­cia­li e col­lier vo­lu­mi­no­si, re­si an­co­ra più evi­den­ti dall’uso mas­sic­cio dell’oro gial­lo e del­le pie­tre co­lo­ra­te in equa con­di­vi­sio­ne con i dia­man­ti di gros­so ca­li­bro. Og­gi quell’estro­si­tà ri­tor­na, in con­trap­po­si­zio­ne al­lo sti­le mi­ni­ma­li­sta ed es­sen­zia­le che vuo­le il gio­iel­lo si­mi­le a un ta­tuag­gio di­se­gna­to sul­la pel­le. Ri­spet­to a que­gli anni i to­ni so­no smor­za­ti, i vo­lu­mi al­leg­ge­ri­ti, le li­nee rin­fre­sca­te. Ri­man­go­no il va­lo­re este­ti­co del de­si­gn e il po­te­re evo­ca­ti­vo del­le pie­tre, la for­za dei ma­te­ria­li no­bi­li e l’esclu­si­vi­tà dell’ar­ti­gia­na­li­tà. Di nuo­vo ci so­no le in­no­va­zio­ni dei fi­nis­sag­gi e l’in­ter­ven­to di tec­no­lo­gie avan­za­te, co­me i ta­gli al la­ser o le la­vo­ra­zio­ni 3D, che iden­ti­fi­ca­no la con­tem­po­ra­nei­tà di ogni gio­iel­lo.

Gra­ce Jo­nes lo­ved wea­ring a sin­gle bold jewel­ry pie­ce, like the bra­ce­let that ex­ten­ded from her wri­st up her arm wi­th tons of cir­cu­lar ban­gles. For Cin­dy Lau­per, the ul­ti­ma­te in self-adorn­ment was wea­ring mul­ti­ple nec­kla­ces that tum­bled do­wn on to her

La con­fer­ma dell’oro ROS­SO, il ri­tor­no di quel­lo GIAL­LO. Le pie­tre so­vra­sta­no for­me im­por­tan­ti. L’ar­ti­gia­na­li­tà è un pun­to fer­mo

nec­kli­ne. Ma­don­na brought the sa­cred and pro­fa­ne to­ge­ther, and whi­le, on one hand, cros­ses and prayer cards spo­ke to the spi­rit of the ti­mes, on the other hand, chains we­re dou­bled over as a way to up­da­te a great clas­sic: the grou­met­te link. The­se we­re the di­vas of the ma­gni­fi­cent 1980s wi­th their ma­ny ex­ces­ses and ex­tra­va­gan­ces. The­se we­re ma­gni­fi­cent years

for jewel­ry as well, full of that sen­se of un­brid­led he­do­ni­sm that would de­fi­ne the ae­sthe­tic of the en­ti­re de­ca­de. De­si­gners, wi­th the de­ve­lo­p­ment of rea­dy-to-wear li­nes, set the ru­les for a new ap­proa­ch to fa­shion, whi­ch was no lon­ger an end in itself. This sty­le ab­so­lu­te­ly re­lied on ac­ces­so­ries – jewels, fir­st and fo­re­mo­st, whi­ch we­re true de­co­ra­ti­ve ele­men­ts that we­re so full of cha­ri­sma. The ca­reer wo­man – con­fi­dent and bra­sh, even ag­gres­si­ve in her tight pan­tsuit/ar­mor wi­th wi­de shoul­der – ho­ned her wea­pons of po­wer and se­duc­tion even in the way she wo­re rings, ear­rings, bra­ce­le­ts and lar­ge nec­kla­ce, ma­de all the mo­re bold due to their use of a lot of yel­low gold, co­lo­red sto­nes and over­si­zed dia­monds in equal mea­su­re. To­day that ex­tra­va­gan­ce is back as a con­tra­st to the mi­ni­ma­li­st and es­sen­tial sty­le that sees the jewel al­mo­st like a tat­too de­si­gned on the skin. Com­pa­red to tho­se years, things ha­ve been to­ned do­wn, vo­lu­mes are lighter and li­nes fre­sher. The ae­sthe­tic va­lue of the de­si­gn, the evo­ca­ti­ve­ness of the sto­nes, the po­wer of no­ble ma­te­rials and the ex­clu­si­ve­ness of the craf­tsman­ship

all re­main the sa­me. What’s new are in­no­va­ti­ve fi­ni­shings and the use of ad­van­ced tech­no­lo­gies like la­ser cut­ting and 3D wor­king me­thods, ser­ving to cha­rac­te­ri­ze the con­tem­po­ra­ry na­tu­re of ea­ch jewel.


Was­son Fi­ne Jewel­ry by Erin Was­son

Noor Fa­res

De Gri­so­go­no

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