English Tex­ts

VOGUE (Italy) - - EDITORIALE - by EMA­NUE­LE FARNETI

“A hu­ge rea­son why I wanted to shoot the co­ver of the ‘Age Is­sue,’ was to be able to show a new ta­ke on how a wo­man over 70 could look. That is why I was so ex­ci­ted to shoot Lau­ren Hutton for the co­ver. She is 74 and so vi­brant and still se­xy. She al­so em­bra­ces her age. She has had no co­sme­tic work do­ne to her face or bo­dy. It’s im­por­tant that a co­ver be more than ju­st a pho­to­gra­ph, it needs to re­flect our ti­mes and chal­len­ge and in­spi­re. We li­ve in an Agei­st So­cie­ty and peo­ple are all try­ing to look young and ve­ry few are em­bra­cing their age and their li­nes!” This is how pho­to­gra­pher Steven Klein de­scri­bes the Oc­to­ber co­ver of Vo­gue Ita­lia, a co­ver that esta­bli­shes a re­cord. At the age of 73 and 11 mon­ths, Lau­ren Hutton is the ol­de­st wo­man to ap­pear on a Vo­gue co­ver in the world (cu­riou­sly, the­re ha­ve been a cou­ple of ca­ses whe­re men a few years ol­der ha­ve gra­ced it, fur­ther proof that se­nio­ri­ty is not re­co­gni­zed equal­ly in bo­th se­xes). For the fir­st ti­me ever, an en­ti­re is­sue of Vo­gue Ita­lia is fo­cu­sed on wo­men over six­ty – in ma­ny ca­ses, tho­se over se­ven­ty. The­re is the sor­ro­w­ful let­ter to two ge­ne­ra­tions by Ha­nif Ku­rei­shi and the cra­zy uni­ver­se of se­nior stars on In­sta­gram (“Stea­ling your man sin­ce 1928”); the­re’s the re­turn of Benedetta Bar­zi­ni (who ap­pea­red on the fir­st Vo­gue co­ver in No­vem­ber 1965 when it was Vo­gue & No­vi­tà) to the­se pa­ges, the re­mar­ka­ble sto­ry of the fir­st trans mo­del, the mu­sings on age by Pe­ter Lind­ber­gh, who ma­je­sti­cal­ly re­sto­res to his wo­men the si­gns and beau­ty left by the passage of ti­me. The que­stion to ask isn’t “Is old age ha­ving a fa­shion mo­ment?” – the an­swer, in fact, is yes. Ma­ny ru­na­way sho­ws and ad­ver­ti­sings cam­pai­gns al­rea­dy of­fer proof of this. Nor is it the nag­ging que­stion about whe­ther mil­len­nials or the ba­by boo­mers who age gra­ce­ful­ly, and who are flu­sh wi­th ca­sh and ea­ger to shop, will sa­ve fa­shion. Ra­ther, we think that it is about in­clu­si­ve di­ver­si­ty, the real chal­len­ge of to­day. This re­la­tes to gen­der, eth­ni­ci­ty and re­li­gion, and it is al­so true for age – no one feels ex­clu­ded. As sta­ted by Ro­bert Po­gue Har­ri­son, who is in­ter­viewed on pa­ge 89: “An exi­sten­tia­li­st said that af­ter

fif­ty years eve­ryo­ne de­ser­ves the face he has. If we are an­xious and ner­vous, it will be seen; if we age wi­th gra­ce and har­mo­ny, our face will show this.” This is­sue is de­di­ca­ted to the ma­ny won­der­ful wo­men who do not li­ve wi­th the my­th of ye­ster­day, who don’t wor­ry about to­mor­row. It’s for tho­se who al­ways li­ve for to­day: è sempre og­gi. (Trad. Ivan Car­va­lho)

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