While re­tain­ing its el­e­gant, dis­creet de­sign, the his­toric Tre Cristi Mi­lano restau­rant has been re­vamped and in­fused with a breath of youth­ful cre­ativ­ity. By Gi­u­lia Minero

Where Milan - - CONTENTS -

The his­toric Tre Cristi Mi­lano restau­rant has been re­vamped and in­fused with a breath of youth­ful cre­ativ­ity

Al­though still lo­cated in the same place in the shadow of the sky­scrapers of Porta Nuova Vare­sine, ev­ery­thing else about the Tre Cristi Mi­lano restau­rant has changed rad­i­cally. To be­gin with the av­er­age age of its staff mem­bers is twenty-five. The youth­ful team in­cludes 25-year-old chef Dario Pisani, sous-chef Si­mone Rocca, restau­rant man­ager Fed­er­ica Russo, and wine ex­pert Mon­ica An­geli. Of­fer­ing Mediter­ranean-based cui­sine, its kitchen is helmed by Neapoli­tan tal­ent Dario Pisani, whose re­sume in­cludes time at the restau­rants of sev­eral of Italy's most renowned chefs, in­clud­ing En­rico Crippa, Carlo Cracco and Gualtiero March­esi, who passed on to him their love of high-qual­ity, fresh in­gre­di­ents and el­e­gantly pre­pared dishes. His fo­cus on in­gre­di­ents is trans­lated into à la carte menus that in­clude fresh pasta, made in-house, us­ing or­ganic flours, un­usual pair­ings, of­ten pre­pared on re­quest, and cre­ations fea­tur­ing balanced flavours, the re­sult of a com­bi­na­tion of Neapoli­tan cui­sine, ori­en­tal in­flu­ences and con­tem­po­rary touches. The young chef's sig­na­ture dishes in­clude ‘Soft egg in a puff pas­try shell flavoured with its condi­ments, pump­kin-filled Ravi­oli, creamed cod­fish, gin­ger and dashi con­sommé and braised beef cheek in red wine with a creamed car­rot and Swiss chard sauce; the last is one of the sta­ples of Italy's re­gional cui­sine. The restau­rant's à la carte of­fer­ings are en­hanced by a tast­ing menu, sym­bol­i­cally named ‘A Pi­acer Mio', (As You Like It) where the five cour­ses of­fered, cre­ated with metic­u­lous at­ten­tion to de­tail, are adapted to suit in­di­vid­ual tastes and high­light the fresh, sea­sonal in­gre­di­ents. Those wish­ing to in­dulge in an elab­o­rate, flavour-filled lunch ex­pe­ri­ence should opt for the busi­ness lunch menu fea­tur­ing two cour­ses of de­lec­ta­ble of­fer­ings cre­ated to please all palates. A fab­u­lous wine list, fea­tur­ing more than 200 la­bels of pres­ti­gious Ital­ian and French vin­tages, com­pletes these menus.

>> Tre Cristi Mi­lano. Via Galileo Galilei, 5 cor­ner of via Marco Polo. T: 02 29062923. M3 Repub­blica. www.tre­cristim­i­lano.com

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