THE ISLAND OF BURANO | ITINERARY

In ad­di­tion to Mu­ra­no and Tor­cel­lo, this island on the Ve­ne­tian La­goon should not be mis­sed. Lo­ved (and wi­de­ly pho­to­gra­phed) by tou­rists, it is fa­mous for its co­lour­ful hou­ses, but­ter bi­scui­ts and abo­ve all, its han­d­craf­ted la­ce.

Where Venice - - News - By Ste­fa­no Trai­ne

A mu­st-vi­sit de­sti­na­tion fa­mous for its co­lour­ful hou­ses and han­d­craf­ted la­ce.

POCKET BURANO

You can al­so ta­ke the hou­ses of Burano ho­me as a sou­ve­nir. On the island you can find a num­ber of ar­ti­sans spe­cia­li­zing in the re­pro­duc­tion of brightly co­lou­red, mi­nia­tu­re di­stric­ts. Ho­we­ver, the no­ble­st craft of all is the la­ce-ma­king. The la­ce ma­de he­re is tru­ly an exam­ple of an an­cient art! A lit­tle less fa­mous than its twin, Mu­ra­no

- the island of glass, wi­th whi­ch it is of­ten con­fu­sed, due to the si­mi­lar na­mes (on­ly the fir­st let­ter chan­ges), la­ce, in no way in­fe­rior to its si­bling's blo­wn glass, has ma­de ti­ny Burano fa­mous. Wi­th a po­pu­la­tion of on­ly th­ree thou­sand in­ha­bi­tan­ts, its co­lour­ful hou­ses ma­ke it is one of the mo­st pic­tu­re­sque pla­ces on ear­th.

THE HOU­SES

Thank hea­vens for smart­pho­nes! The idea of ar­ri­ving on Burano and rea­li­zing that you've for­got­ten your ca­me­ra could be a ca­ta­stro­phe. The island's row of hou­ses, who­se fa­ca­des boa­st all the co­lours of the rain­bow, are tru­ly spec­ta­cu­lar! Ho­we­ver, the ori­gin of this tra­di­tion of pain­ting the hou­ses in bright co­lours was not on­ly for ae­sthe­tic rea­sons. Le­gend has it that its fi­sher­men, of­ten con­fu­sed by fre­quent banks of fog (and, tru­th be told, by the amount of li­queur con­su­med to keep them warm…), de­vi­sed a chro­ma­tic co­de that would help them iden­ti­fy their own lan­ding piers mo­re ea­si­ly af­ter a long day's fi­shing. Ea­ch co­lour cor­re­spon­ded to a fa­mi­ly, to their hou­se and to their ad­dress.

BURANO LA­CE

Burano's brightly-co­lou­red hou­ses are not the on­ly thing wor­th ad­mi­ring.

The island is the ca­pi­tal of hand­ma­de la­ce, a craft kept ali­ve for cen­tu­ries by the wi­ves of fi­sher­men wai­ting for their hu­sbands to re­turn from sea. The work is ex­tre­me­ly exac­ting, wi­th ea­ch wo­man spe­cia­li­zing in a sin­gle stit­ch. Sin­ce the­re are se­ven stit­ches in to­tal, ea­ch pie­ce is pas­sed from wo­man to wo­man to fi­ni­sh. Groups of wo­men work di­li­gen­tly for days to pro­du­ce items, whe­ther lar­ge or small, of mat­chless beau­ty: trims for dres­ses, ac­ces­so­ries, ta­ble­clo­ths, glo­ves, um­brel­las and ma­sks, all ma­de from this de­li­ca­te, whi­te la­ce, craf­ted wi­th a pain­sta­king at­ten­tion to de­tail that has la­sted for cen­tu­ries. For exam­ple, thou­gh it can ta­ke up to five mon­ths to ma­ke a rec­tan­gu­lar ta­ble­clo­th for 12 peo­ple, the island's la­ce ma­kers are now equip­ped to de­li­ver your item of choi­ce to any­whe­re in the world. (Plea­se no­te: sin­ce an authentic, han­d­craf­ted item ta­kes hours of work, you need to be cau­tious if the price seems too low. The ri­sk that the la­ce is not hand­ma­de and not even Ve­ne­tian is now a sad rea­li­ty). Whi­le on the island, ma­ke su­re to vi­sit the Mu­seum of La­ce-Ma­king to un­der­stand why so­me­thing so ex­qui­si­te should not be­co­me ex­tinct (Burano, Piaz­za Bal­das­sar­re Ga­lup­pi, 187).

BI­SCUI­TS AND OTHER SWEET TREATS

But­ter bi­scui­ts kno­wn as Bu­ra­nel­li (ei­ther ring or S-sha­ped), are fa­mous on the island and you will be of­fe­red them whe­re­ver you go. Ho­we­ver, this is not the on­ly spe­cial­ty that you'll find. The island has a long-stan­ding ga­stro­no­mic tra­di­tion lin­ked, abo­ve all, to fre­sh fi­sh. He­re is our pick, among the ma­ny, of se­ve­ral hi­sto­ric ea­te­ries. Da Ro­ma­no (fa­med for its ‘ri­sot­to di Gò'); Da Rug­ge­ro al Gat­to

Ne­ro (all the pa­stas and des­serts are ma­de in-hou­se, and the fi­sh is so fre­sh and de­li­cious that even Ja­mie Oli­ver has re­com­men­ded Al Gat­to Ne­ro on his te­le­vi­sion show); and fi­nal­ly Ai Pe­sca­to­ri e Dal Ve­cio Pi­pa. Bon Ap­pe­tit!

HOW TO REA­CH BURANO

One Va­po­ret­to li­ne runs from Venice to Burano: the num­ber 12. The jour­ney lasts for ap­pro­xi­ma­te­ly one hour af­ter em­bar­king at the Fon­da­men­te No­ve stop (the Va­po­ret­to runs at 10 mi­nu­tes pa­st and 20 mi­nu­tes to the hour). If you're not in a hur­ry, the Ve­ne­tians re­com­mend ano­ther al­ter­na­ti­ve: you can ta­ke the 14 li­ne from San Zac­ca­ria (the Pie­tà stop), whi­ch stops at the Li­do. It's a good op­por­tu­ni­ty to ta­ke a look at the ve­nue whe­re the Film Fe­sti­val is held, and ad­mi­re the works by MOSE, the hu­ge hy­drau­lic en­gi­nee­ring pro­ject com­ple­ted to pro­tect the La­goon.

Zil­li

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