Refined, quirky nabe for Japan’s best homegrown labels, antiques and architecture. Avoid Tue or Wed when some of these stores close. Start outside Max Mara on the corner of Aoyama and Kotto Dori (K.D.). With your back to Max Mara, either cross to the opp. cnr for a fruity flan Berry Café (see Coffee), or head left into K.D. and take the next left at Niessing and mosey down the lane for Madu / 3498 2971 / on the right with Japanese tablewear. At the mini junction take the next right to Felisi / 3498 6912 / for covetable Italian bags and belts, then return to the junction and head straight towards main street Aoyama Dori, past puffer jacket peddler Duvetica / 6427 3311 / on the right. When you hit Aoyama turn right, shimmy past the Spiral Bldg (home to fab 2/F design store Spiral Market) and take the second right to B-company / 5774 8848 / for odd, Japdonesian furny. Carry on; at the end is Aveda Lifestyle with Pure Café (see Lunch) for the Oo-er-veydic brigade. Exit Aveda and swish right to the red-brick T-place complex to espy art and design books at Shimada Yosho / 3407 3863 / and tailor Icho (see Advanced Shop.). Retrace out of the complex right to ogle out-there designer gear at Dresscamp / 5778 3717 / (m/w), or turn left back up to K.D., cross over and down the bite-sized lane to find modern calligraphy gallery Carré Moji (see Advanced Shop.). Return to K.D., cross at the lights and head right to Brit luxury store Vulcanize / 5464 5255. Push on and at the next lights turn left and 25m down are funky knick-knacks on your left at Issiken / 3406 3936 / (no English sign), then cubed mini-mall Glassarea a few steps along on your right, with 291 / 5778 0291 / stocking neat Fukui prefecture cerams and more, plus Flamingo Café’s terrace / 6418 5020. Back to K.D., cross and either pop into underground style stash Idol / 6427 4779 / idoltokyo.com / or scamper left for Morita’s (see Advanced Shop.) divine antique kimono and textiles. Exit right and take the second right for inkporium Shosaikan (see Advanced Shop.) on the left (note no Eng sign, look for the bamboo front garden). Back to K.D., go right and carry along to Kikuya / 3400 3856 / a charming old-fash candy store, and Sempre / 5464 5655 / for mod Nippon furny, homeware and gadgets. On, on like the wind, past two sets of lights and then some to Ichigendo / 3498 2266 / antiques. Either cross the road and zap 25m up to Athalie / 3400 5744 / for gorgeous jewellery, shoes and objects, or retrace back to the lights, turn right and trot down the street to Tabasa / 3486 2771 / for Francofrill threads. Exit Tabasa and cross the street to glass lifestyle haven WTW / 5468 2560 / wtwstyle.com / on the corner. Take the side exit and totter down the laneway where tiny Ishii Collection / 3486 6683 / has block prints, and the Chrome Hearts / 5766 1081 / compound shelves mucho bling. Retrace out and zip down the opposite lane to saddlers Somes / 5464 2555 / think Japanese Hèrmes, then across is the Taro Okamoto Memorial Museum / 3406 0801 / dedicated to the esteemed avant-garde artist, with teensy A Piece of Cake / 5466 0686 / inside for a cuppa. Phew! Fancy more? The next itin starts here – handy, Andy-san.