An­thony Vac­carello’s cre­ative ap­proach is ut­terly avant-garde, wildly dis­tinc­tive and just what Yves Saint Lau­rent him­self would have hoped for from a suc­ces­sor. Here’s why.

Bespoke - - THE CONTENTS -

What do you get when you take a 35-year old Italo-bel­gian who honed his skills un­der Karl Lager­feld at Fendi, be­fore launch­ing his epony­mous la­bel two years later, and who then worked for three years with Donatella Ver­sace be­fore be­ing made cre­ative di­rec­tor of Ver­sace's Ver­sus la­bel, and who has since been given cre­ative reign at the leg­endary house of Saint Lau­rent? The an­swer is one ma­jorly hot tal­ent. "What An­thony does is very close to my work,” said Donatella Ver­sace about her friend. “My woman is cool and sexy, and to com­bine those two things is not al­ways easy... Not many have this qual­ity of com­bin­ing very cool and sexy. But it’s what women and men want.” One thing women, and surely men, needed ac­cord­ing to Vac­carello, was the re­turn of the mono-boob dress. Back in 1990, Yves Saint Lau­rent caused what New York mag­a­zine called fash­ion's ‘scan­dale du jour’ when he de­buted that nip­ple-bar­ing dress as part of his Spring/sum­mer col­lec­tion. Twenty-five years later, Hedi Sli­mane kept the ball rolling when he too sent a model down the run­way in a dress bar­ing her left breast. And when Vac­carello pre­sented his first col­lec­tion as Cre­ative Di­rec­tor for Au­tumn 2016, he con­tin­ued where the oth­ers had left off with a mono-boob dress in what was seen as a rite of pas­sage rooted in tra­di­tion – al­though he added his own unique stamp via a sur­pris­ingly de­mure nip­ple-cov­er­ing glit­tery pasty. While he has stated that he wants to avoid do­ing the same

"The Saint Lau­rent woman is a dark an­gel with a sen­sual al­lure and drapes her­self in black-se­quined dresses, shin­ing like the as­phalt af­ter the rain."

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Lebanon

© PressReader. All rights reserved.