Anthony Vaccarello’s creative approach is utterly avant-garde, wildly distinctive and just what Yves Saint Laurent himself would have hoped for from a successor. Here’s why.
What do you get when you take a 35-year old Italo-belgian who honed his skills under Karl Lagerfeld at Fendi, before launching his eponymous label two years later, and who then worked for three years with Donatella Versace before being made creative director of Versace's Versus label, and who has since been given creative reign at the legendary house of Saint Laurent? The answer is one majorly hot talent. "What Anthony does is very close to my work,” said Donatella Versace about her friend. “My woman is cool and sexy, and to combine those two things is not always easy... Not many have this quality of combining very cool and sexy. But it’s what women and men want.” One thing women, and surely men, needed according to Vaccarello, was the return of the mono-boob dress. Back in 1990, Yves Saint Laurent caused what New York magazine called fashion's ‘scandale du jour’ when he debuted that nipple-baring dress as part of his Spring/summer collection. Twenty-five years later, Hedi Slimane kept the ball rolling when he too sent a model down the runway in a dress baring her left breast. And when Vaccarello presented his first collection as Creative Director for Autumn 2016, he continued where the others had left off with a mono-boob dress in what was seen as a rite of passage rooted in tradition – although he added his own unique stamp via a surprisingly demure nipple-covering glittery pasty. While he has stated that he wants to avoid doing the same
"The Saint Laurent woman is a dark angel with a sensual allure and drapes herself in black-sequined dresses, shining like the asphalt after the rain."