Bekaa
ANJAR, BAALBECK, HERMEL, JOUB JANNINE, MACHGHARA, RACHAYA, TAANAYEL, ZAHLE
ANJAR
The city of Anjar is famous for its strong Armenian ties and its stunning Umayyad ruins that are unique in Lebanon. Set among magnificent mountains, it is a perfect example of an exciting retreat boasting a rich history.
GETTING THERE
Take the Beirut-damascus Highway towards Zahle and follow the signs south to Anjar.
WHAT TO DO Umayyad ruins
Before the discovery of the ruins in Anjar, Lebanon had archaeological evidence of almost every stage of Arab history except the Umayyads. The site was discovered accidentally in the 1940s by a team of archaeologists looking for the ancient city of Chalcis. What they found instead was the missing link in Lebanon’s long line of Arab rulers. Anjar is home to a complex of Umayyad ruins, including two palaces, a mosque and a public bath. Anjar is close to 1,300 years old and evidence of Greek, Roman and Byzantine architecture can be found at the site, along with the arched Umayyad relics.
Anjar Water Trail
The name Anjar derives from the Aramaic expression "ain garya" (flowing water) due to the abundant water sources in the area. Indeed, this was one of the main reasons the Armenian community settled in this area in the early 1940s. The main spring of Anjar flows through the northeastern part of the city, where there is a public space for visitors featuring a large mosaic mural highlighting the key sites of the city and numerous historical events. There is also a small walking trail: Anjar Water Trail. Take a full tour to check out the old watermills dating back to the foundations of the city and climb the newly built stairs to discover the trail that leads to a hidden cave, an organic farm, a reforestation site and a magnificent viewing point over the plains. It is also possible to rent a small pedal boat on the artificial lake created by the spring.
Kfar Zabad Nature Reserve
Thanks to the presence of endangered birds in Anjar, the Kfar Zabad wetlands have been declared a nature reserve. The Society for the Protection of Nature in Lebanon (SPNL) is heavily involved in the wetland and organizes several hikes with an emphasis on biodiversity and bird life. spnl.org
WHERE TO EAT
Boasting a scrumptious menu of Armenian and Lebanese favorites, Al Shams (+961 8 620567, shamsrestaurant.com) is an ideal spot to enjoy lunch. Make sure you enjoy their famous balloon potatoes, mante and itch. Perched on the side of a lake, Al Jazira (+961 9 854040) is a popular restaurant in the area, especially for families. Choose from traditional mezze items, along with grilled fish.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Layali Al Shams (+961 8 622600) is a modern, luxurious property featuring a large pool and outdoor space, in addition to easy access to all of Anjar’s best sights.
BAALBECK
Baalbeck is a city that needs no introduction. One of Lebanon’s most popular tourist destinations, its astounding Temple of Bacchus is a UNESCO World Heritage Site attracting thousands of tourists every year.
GETTING THERE
Take the Beirut-damascus Highway out of Beirut towards Zahle, and follow the signs to Baalbeck.
WHAT TO DO
Baalbeck Archaeological Site
Though the Temple of Bacchus is the site’s largest ruin, there are actually three ancient temples at the Baalbeck archaeological site: the Temple of Venus, Jupiter, and Bacchus. The Temple of Jupiter originally featured 54 of the largest columns in the world, some of which can still be seen today. The Temple of Bacchus is easily one of the best-preserved Roman temples in the world. Entrance costs 15,000 LBP and the site is open from 8:30 am daily.
Sayyida Khawla Shrine
The shrine of Sayyida Khawla, daughter of Imam Hussein and great-granddaughter of Prophet Muhammad, is located at the southern entrance of the city. Though the stories vary, it is commonly believed that Our Lady of Baalbeck was laid to rest among the orchards, where her shrine stands today. Stories also claim that people residing close to her shrine have seen divine lights shining between the orchards.
Stone of the Pregnant Woman
This Roman artifact is one of the largest monoliths to be excavated. The exact method used to carve this stone somewhat of a mystery. As for its name, there are several stories behind it; one story claims its name is attributed to the stone’s ability to increase fertility, while others stipulated it was because of a pregnant woman who claimed she could remove the rock if she was fed.
Baalbeck International Festival
Every summer, Bacchus Temple transforms into a unique venue welcoming the biggest names in opera, jazz, rock, pop and dance for the Baalbeck International Festival. Artists including Fairuz, Sting and Charles Aznavour have been among the festival’s special guests. It is certainly an important cultural event for the country. For more information, visit baalbeck.org.lb.
WHERE TO EAT
There are several restaurants just outside the archaeological site that offer great mezze. Try Baalbeck Palace (+961 8 377666) or
Ananas Restaurant (+961 81 616406), both of which are within walking distance of the site. Just make sure you don’t leave without trying the famous sfiha Baalbackieh.
WHERE TO STAY
Located steps from the Baalbeck ruins, the historic Hotel Palmyra (+961 3 371127) is a beautifully renovated house, complete with terraces, a sunny garden and a lovely restaurant. The hotel has been open since the 19th century and has seen its fair share of celebrities, including Nina Simone, Ella Fitzgerald, and even Charles de Gaulle.
L’annexe (+961 81 064460, hotelibanais. com) is a traditional Lebanese home built in the 19th century that includes five rooms and a patio. Ali and his wife, Rima, acquired the place in the 1980s and opened L’annexe’s doors to share their passion for this forgotten city with anyone thirsty for a true voyage into Middle Eastern heritage.
HERMEL
Nestled in the northeast of Lebanon, Hermel is brimming with fascinating sites making it an exciting destination for adventure seekers.
GETTING THERE
From Beirut, take the Beirut-damascus International Highway towards Zahle. Once in Zahle, take the Baalbeck Road, then the Ras Baalbeck-hermel Road. The journey to Hermel takes around three hours by car.
WHAT TO DO Pyramid of Hermel
Hermel's mysterious pyramid, the Qamoua is visible from afar. It serves to announce your arrival to the village, just as it did centuries ago.
There are several accounts regarding Qamoua’s origins. The most far-fetched story suggests that this 27-meter structure was built by Ramses II after his selfproclaimed victory over the Hittites during the Battle of Qadesh (near modern-day Hermel) in 1274 BC. Others believe the construction took place much later, around the year 332 BC, on the order of Alexander the Great after he consolidated his control over all of ancient Phoenicia.
The structure was restored in 1931 under the French Mandate, leaving a difference in hue between the original stones and those added during the restoration. The inscriptions, which depict hunting scenes, are still visible on three of the structure’s four facades.
Saint Maron Monastery
Named after the Syriac monk who lived there with his followers in the fourth century, the cave is located 200m from the source of the Assi, 90m above the river.
Carved out of solid rock, the impressive cliffface cavern consists of three levels with rock stairways and altars. Take the steep walk up to explore its fascinating interior.
Hiking
Hermel is the perfect destination for hikers who are looking for a different kind of adventure. Its barren plains offer magnificent views that extend almost all the way across the Bekaa.
If you want to experience the real Hermel, consider a camping trip and wake up to an unspoiled vista as the sun rises. For those who prefer to be on a campsite with facilities, the Assi Club (+961 78 900952) and Chir El Assi Rafting Club (+961 3 020498) offer areas where you can pitch a tent.
WHERE TO EAT
Several restaurants overlook the Assi
River and all are famed for their trout.
Try Samaket El Truite (+961 8 200874/3 883024) or Rawdet El Assi (+961 3 723933). The only restaurant offering alcoholic beverages is Jaziret El Ferdaous
(+961 3 988114/8 200685). At the source of the Assi, Nabeh El Assi (+961 70 097984) offers visitors the option of an à la carte menu or the possibility of renting tables and barbecues to prepare their own food.
WHERE TO STAY
The Oronte Club (+961 70 802748) offers a choice between private cabins or tents, including a large tent that can accommodate groups of twenty people. The Lazord Hotel (+961 3 686747) is a three-star property with a swimming pool, restaurant and playground for children.
There are also several eco-lodges in the area, including Al Kwakh (+961 3 454996/70 359659), Al Jord (+961 3 458702/958094) and Lazzab Club and Lodge (+961 3 797569/71 146915).
JOUB JANNINE
Located in the very center of West Bekaa, Joub Jannine is a friendly village full of interesting sites. Its rugged plains, historical riches and natural wonders make it a destination worth exploring.
GETTING THERE
Located just over 60km from Beirut, Joub Jannine can be reached via the BeirutDamascus International Highway. Follow the road towards Sofar and onto Dahr El Baydar. Leave the highway at Zebdol in the Bekaa and pass by Kefraya before arriving in Joub Jannine.
WHAT TO DO Roman Ruins
Joub Jannine is home to one of the oldest bridges in the Middle East — The Roman Bridge of Joub Jannine (built in AD 704). Sadly, the bridge collapsed in 1943, but it was rebuilt with the same rocks and is currently almost identical to the bridge the Romans constructed.
The Souk
Designed in the 1950s, the souk el sabet (Saturday souk) provides locals with a space to sell their goods. You can find an array of fruits, vegetables, spices and other products at the market, and the prices are very fair.
Religious Tourism
Joub Jannine is home to many Christian and Muslim holy sites, including Saint George Greek-catholic Church, Saint Nicholas GreekOrthodox Church and the Al Omari and Omar Bin Khattab mosques.
Wine Tasting
Château Kefraya (+961 8 645333/8 645444) is located just 10 minutes away by car from Joub Jannine. Once there, take a tour of the vineyards and treat yourself to a delicious meal at Le Relais Dionysos. The neighboring smaller Château Marsyas (+961 1 442082/1 443756) vineyard is also an excellent choice for wine enthusiasts.
Amusement Park
The Jeb Jannine Wonderland Amusement
Park is one of the largest outdoor amusement parks in Lebanon, located near the municipal stadium. Unsurprisingly, it’s an ideal spot to keep kids entertained.
(+961 8 660444)
WHERE TO EAT
There are some small restaurants in the main square of Joub Jannine, but for an experience that will tantalize your taste buds, head to Château Kefraya’s restaurant
Le Relais Dionysos (+961 9 951351), where you will be treated to a delicious meal and great vintages surrounded by vineyards.
WHERE TO STAY
While there are no hotels in Joub Jannine itself, the eco-friendly West Bekaa Country
Club (+961 8 645601/2/3, wbccbekaa. com) is less than a 10-minute drive away. A leisure and wellness resort nestled in Lebanon's lush Bekaa Valley, its charming rural houses seamlessly blend with nature to offer an oasis of peace and tranquility in a stress-free environment.
MACHGHARA
Located in the West Bekaa Machghara has known a turbulent history. But, like many other villages, it has managed to preserve many monuments of its past, and today is rising once again.
GETTING THERE
Take the Beirut-damascus International Highway out of the city and head through Dahr El Baydar, then turn right to reach Chtaura. You will cross villages such as Qabb Elias, Kherbet Anafar and Saghbine, before getting to Machghara.
WHAT TO DO Machghara’s Waters
By walking its narrow streets or climbing its ubiquitous stairs, visitors to Machghara can easily dream of a time when this village — which offers a breathtaking view of
Lake Qaraoun — was a place of passage for
Ottoman caravans. In Machghara, a small river burbles in a rhythm that seems unique to the village, creating a dreamy ambience woven by the confluence of around 30 springs, that take the form of everything from small cascades to narrow streams.
Nature and Culture
Machghara boasts a dry and cool climate, and is abundant in fruit trees. It is a pretty haven for those interested in hiking.
Another attractive aspect of the village is its cultural and social diversity, perhaps best embodied by the bell towers standing tall alongside the minarets, resonating together harmoniously at the different hours of prayer.
Zaki Nassif Museum
Machghara is also a fertile ground for artists and intellectuals. One of them was the great composer and musician Zaki Nassif, a village native. Nassif’s house has been transformed into a museum that attracts tourists and budding talents.
Today, the two-story property consists of two buildings, one built between 1850 and 1860 and the other at the end of the 19th century.
WHERE TO EAT
Having recently opened next to the Zaki Nassif garden, Layali Jdoudna (+ 961 3 705402) offers visitors traditional Lebanese food.
Located in Saghbine, Le Chalet du Lac
(+961 8 670022) offers a beautiful view of Lake Qaraoun and is within walking distance of Machghara.
WHERE TO STAY The Blue Lake Hotel
(bluelake-hotel. com) is situated in Saghbine and has all the facilities one would expect for a cozy weekend getaway, including an unparalleled view of Lake Qaraoun.
RACHAYA
Considered by many as one of Lebanon’s most picturesque towns, Rachaya is a jewel in the Bekaa Valley. Located 85km southeast of Beirut, it attracts nature lovers and those looking to embrace traditional life
GETTING THERE
Take the Beirut-damascus Highway towards the Bekaa. Once you’ve reached Chtaura, turn right towards Taanayel and continue to Majdel Anjar. Follow the Masnaa-rachaya Road for about 25km and you’ll reach the town.
WHAT TO DO
Rachaya Citadel of Independence
Built as a palace by the Chehabi dynasty in the 18th century, the citadel is one of Rachaya’s most famous landmarks. Under the French Mandate, Lebanon’s early national leaders were held captive there during the 1943 rebellion. This triggered outrage that later led to their release and eventually, Lebanon’s independence. Considered a national monument of pride, the citadel is in part occupied by the Lebanese Armed Forces, with the remainder open to the public.
Old Souks
The old souks of Rachaya date back to the 17th century and are among the oldest in
Lebanon. Wander around and pop into some of the local shops famed for their traditional crafts, particularly silver jewelry and stove making.
Old Churches
Notre Dame de la Deliverance, built in
1883, is the town’s Greek Catholic church. Full of rustic charm, the church’s peeling blue-arched ceiling is enchanting. The
Greek Orthodox Church of the Virgin Mary is on a street just off the souk. It features a simple stone interior punctuated with opulent chandeliers. The oldest Syriac Catholic Church, Mar Moussa al Habachi, is also located in Rachaya. Dating back to the 17th century, it includes a rare 500-year-old icon of its patron saint Moses the Ethiopian. The fourth church of the town is the Saint Nicholas Greek Orthodox Church.
Local Traditions
Don’t leave Rachaya without visiting the factory where they make molasses (+961 3 856908) and where beekeepers, like Rechrach Naji (+961 3 701064), make honey.
Hiking and trekking
Rachaya’s natural beauty makes it an ideal hiking destination. Limestone rocks, pine forests and fertile lands with bountiful fruit trees define the rugged landscape. Enjoy hiking along the flanks of Mount Hermon, the sacred Mount of Transfiguration.
WHERE TO EAT
Enjoy the shawarma and lemonade of Hajj Nicolas Maalouli (+961 76 992420) at the entrance of the souk.
Known for its tasty grills and mouthwatering mezze, Layali Wadi El Taym (+961 8 530533/3 665317) is a popular restaurant in the town.
Located on the Dahr El Ahmar main road,
Mashhour (+961 8 590199) is a bona fide Lebanese restaurant offering everything you would expect, from mezze to succulent grills. Overlooking Mount Hermon, Monte Santo
(+961 70 840680) offers guests an extensive menu of delicious Lebanese and international dishes as well as a great view.
WHERE TO SLEEP
Al Kanz Hotel and Restaurant (+961 8 530888) offers 10 comfortable rooms and views of Mount Hermon. There’s also an onsite restaurant.
Located in the old souks, the Bellavista
(+961 8 595676) are simple and convenient apartments.
Guesthouses in the area include Haramoun
Guesthouse (+961 71 219472), Dar Mehdi (+961 3 963378) and Kamal el Sahili
Guesthouse (+961 3 615702).
Visit rashaya.org to plan your visit.
TAANAYEL
Just a few kilometers from Zahle you’ll find the pretty village of Taanayel. With its bountiful farms, breathtaking scenery and vineyards, Taanayel is a true haven that can be visited all year long.
GETTING THERE
Taanayel is approximately one hour from Beirut. Take the Beirut-damascus Highway out of the city until you reach Dahr Al Baidar. From there, continue on to Masnaa Road toward Chtaura, where the route straight ahead leads you to Taanayel.
WHAT TO DO Domaine de Taanayel
With hectares of trees shedding their leaves in fall, a visit to this pretty area is the perfect way to embrace the season. For an entrance fee of just 3,000 LBP, you can take a stroll through the woods and admire the indigenous flora and fauna. You can even rent a bike for an additional charge.
+961 8 540066
Taanayel Lake
Indulge in some much-needed quiet time by the stunning Taanayel Lake, where you’re guaranteed a beautiful view. For a unique experience, you can take a trip in a horsedrawn carriage or even ride a horse. All activities are weather dependent.
Massaya Winery
This fabulous winery is best visited on a Sunday, when a tour of the vineyard is organized. After the tour, visitors can enjoy a scrumptious buffet of cheese, wine and a selection of cold cuts. Much of the wooden furniture, namely the chairs, tables and bar, are repurposed wine barrels. massaya.com
WHERE TO EAT
For a typical Lebanese breakfast head to
Deir Taanayel (+961 8 540066), a beautiful convent dating back to 1860. The building is now a fertile space for the convent’s artisanal manufacturing, where visitors can taste some of the healthiest dairy products while admiring the view of countless hectares of fruit trees and vineyards.
In keeping with the region’s penchant for healthy eating, Khan El Maksoud (+961 8 544881/3 124279) serves locally sourced food products straight to your plate. Its simple decor is contrasted by vibrant tablecloths and surrounding greenery. The restaurant is popular, so reservations are a must. Note it is closed on Mondays.
WHERE TO SLEEP
Guaranteeing an unforgettable experience, the Ecolodge Tanail (+961 8 544881, arcenciel.org) is a living compound built by Arc en Ciel using traditional materials. The property, which is conveniently located near many local attractions, has a wonderful on-site restaurant serving wholesome food. Guests can also enjoy a range of activities from hiking and cycling to horseback riding.
Just nine-minutes away from the Taanayel Lake lies the Chtaura Park Hotel (+961 8 540011, chtauraparkhotel.com), a 75-room complex offering high-end accommodation and great views. Perfect for families, the hotel is within close proximity to all of Taanayel’s beautiful attractions.
ZAHLE
Located in the Bekaa Valley, Zahle is Lebanon’s third largest city and a hub in the region. The city is surrounded by snowcapped mountains and is renowned for producing a large share of Lebanon’s wine, arak and poetry.
GETTING THERE
Just an hour’s drive of Beirut, Zahle is easily accessible. Simply head onto the BeirutDamascus Highway and follow the signs to Zahle.
WHAT TO DO Our Lady of Zahlé
Watching over the city on a 54-meter-high tower is a bronze statue of the Virgin Mary, known as Our Lady of Zahle. The panoramic views are quite remarkable.
Wineries and Arak
Thanks to its crisp, cool air and mountainous terrain, Zahle is home to some of Lebanon’s best wineries that vary in size, from large estates to small, family-run wineries. Go winetasting at Château Ksara (+961 8 801662, châteauksara.com), Domaine Wardy
(+961 8 930141/8 930777, domainewardy.com), or Château Khoury
(+961 8 807143, châteaukhoury.com).
The Berdaouni River
The Berdaouni River begins in the snowy mountains of the Bekaa Valley and travels right through the heart of Zahle, endowing the area with an unrivaled natural coolness. Restaurants line the river on the eastern side of the city, offering the perfect place to enjoy a peaceful meal while listening to the soothing sound of running water.
WHERE TO EAT
Situated on the banks of the Berdaouni River, Casino Arabi (+961 8 800144) is one of the most popular Lebanese restaurants in town. Although it is a little pricier than other establishments, the food is phenomenal and the riverside deck is simply magical.
Along the Berdaouni River is the famous
Boozah Khalaf and Abou Sleiman (+961 3 408880/8 823733). The families got together to start producing ice cream three generations ago, when they mixed miskeh, sahlab and milk curd otherwise known as ashta. Today, they still serve this authentic, hand-made ice cream in their shop.
WHERE TO SLEEP
Like many of the buildings in the old town, the Akl Hotel (+961 8 820701) dates back more than 100 years. The small, familyowned establishment has 10 bedrooms, one dining room and two lounges.
Nestled in the heart of Zahle, Grand Kadri
Hotel (+961 8 800038) is one of the few remaining historical landmarks of the country. Built in the 19th century, this building is a living testament to traditional Lebanese architecture. Its style combines oriental aesthetics with a modern influence.