Marc Ja­cobs gives N.Y. Ara­bian Nights

Michael Kors de­buts flip-flops with evening wear while Lon­go­ria shows first col­lec­tion

The Daily Star (Lebanon) - - FRONT PAGE -

NEW YORK: Marc Ja­cobs closed out New York Fash­ion Week with an op­er­atic fi­nale, play­ing the aria from “La Wally” used in the movie “Diva.” And the rest was si­lence. Lit­er­ally. The mod­els walked in the cav­ernous, un­adorned Park Av­enue Ar­mory with no sound­track, their ev­ery foot­step au­di­ble. At Michael Kors, the sound­track was live: Sara Bareilles sang four songs, end­ing with her hit “Brave.” Some high­lights of the fi­nal day of shows:

MARC JA­COBS’ HOL­I­DAY OF THE MIND

Marc Ja­cobs is known for be­gin­ning his shows ex­actly on time, so at 6:01 p.m. Wed­nes­day, the last few tick­ethold­ers were scur­ry­ing fran­ti­cally on their stilet­tos, heels clack­ing on the wooden floor to avoid get­ting caught in the cen­ter of the cav­ernous space as the mod­els be­gan their jour­ney. This fash­ion show was wait­ing for no one.

Like he did in Fe­bru­ary, Ja­cobs held his run­way show in a spare, un­dec­o­rated Park Av­enue Ar­mory, ren­der­ing it ut­terly un­rec­og­niz­able from the be­gin­ning of the week, when Tom Ford had turned it into a luxe night­club set­ting bathed in pur­ple light, with wait­ers serv­ing vodka cock­tails.

Ja­cobs also had his mod­els walk slowly and de­lib­er­ately in to­tal si­lence, play­ing mu­sic only at the fi­nale, when the aria from “Diva” was piped into the space.

But the cloth­ing was any­thing but spare: Ja­cobs’ mod­els wore bril­liant colors, like orange and yel­low, and big, bold flo­ral prints.

Out­fit­ting mod­els in knot­ted tur­bans, the star de­signer fea­tured harem-style and wide-leg pants for day­wear and fin­ished the looks with jewel-en­crusted two-strap san­dals.

A sporty-meets-chic num­ber re­sem­bled an up­dated ver­sion of an ‘Ara­bian Nights’ char­ac­ter. The look fea­tured a sleeve­less top lined with large beads in shades of blue and electric yel­low. Ja­cobs fin­ished the out­fit with bil­low­ing pants.

While vi­brant, kalei­do­scopic prints in­vig­o­rated the col­lec­tion, Ja­cobs’ sig­na­ture daisy print was also on dis­play, show­ing up on a hand­ful of looks.

Sil­hou­ettes, as he ex­plained in his show notes, were “ex­ag­ger­ated, deca­dent and ex­otic” – a re­sult of a va­ca­tion over the last few months.

But it was a va­ca­tion of the mind only. “While friends va­ca­tioned, we took a hol­i­day in our heads and went some­where,” he said, adding that the col­lec­tion had come from a reimag­in­ing of pre­vi­ous sea­sons, “some­where be­yond the ur­ban land­scape of New York City.”

The most no­table look: Tur­bans. Ev­ery­one had them, and they came in all colors – partly in­spired, Ja­cobs said, by Kate Moss, who fa­mously wore a gold one to the Met Gala with Ja­cobs in 2009.

As they were at Calvin Klein, tas­sels were def­i­nitely a fa­vored touch for ac­ces­sories like bags and shoes. Speak­ing of bags, some were enor­mous, and some were tiny – part of those ex­ag­ger­ated shapes Ja­cobs spoke of. Some were fanny packs.

Much-fol­lowed mod­els Ken­dall Jen­ner and Gigi and Bella Ha­did all walked, but the honor of clos­ing the show went to the week’s break­out star, new­bie Kaia Ger­ber – daugh­ter of for­mer su­per­model Cindy Craw­ford who sat in the front row.

In the au­di­ence: Zosia Mamet, Court­ney Love and Nicki Mi­naj, in a re­veal­ing black bustier. “It just seemed su­per sur­real,” Mi­naj said on her way out. “Ev­ery­thing was next level. Colors! I loved it.”

MARCHESA IN­SPIRED BY AD­VEN­TURES OF AN HEIRESS

De­sign duo Keren Craig and Ge­orgina Chap­man of Marchesa say they were in­spired by the trav­els of an heiress ad­ven­turer when dream­ing up their lat­est col­lec­tion.

“We were look­ing at a rather in­cred­i­ble Ed­war­dian (era) woman called Aimee Crocker who wrote a book called ‘And I’d do it Again’ and she had a rather fab­u­lous life,” Craig said back­stage Wed­nes­day.

“Ul­ti­mately it’s a very quintessen­tially Marchesa col­lec­tion,” added Chap­man. “I think we view our col­lec­tions as a sto­ry­book con­tin­u­ing from one sea­son to the next. … Our pieces we want to see as time­less, not as pieces that are done for the sea­son.”

Looks on the run­way fea­tured a one-shoul­der ball grown in blush and a tulle gown with cape sleeves, pearl neck­lace em­broi­dery and a plung­ing neck­line. There was also an ivory cock­tail dress with a satin bodice and os­trich feather skirt.

Craig and Chap­man co-founded the Marchesa la­bel in 2004.

“It makes it so much eas­ier work­ing with your best friend,” said Craig. “We al­ways have a laugh to­gether so I think that al­ways takes the edge off. Some­times some­thing gets re­ally stress­ful and then you can just end up laugh­ing about it and be­ing like, “Well this is a ridicu­lous sit­u­a­tion.’”

Ac­tresses Jen­nifer Mor­ri­son, Vic­to­ria Jus­tice, Dy­lan Penn, Olivia Culpo and Nina Do­brev sat in the front row.

EVENING DRESSES WITH FLIPFLOPS

Sara Bareilles of­fered the live sound­track, singing Otis Red­ding’s “(Sit­tin’ On) the Dock of the Bay,” Ca­role King’s “(You Make Me Feel Like) A Nat­u­ral Woman” and her own “Love Song” at Michael Kors. She closed out the sleek and fem­i­nine show with her hit “Brave.”

In­spired by his first trip to the South Pa­cific, Michael Kors cre­ated a beach col­lec­tion for spring, dress­ing his mod­els in very re­laxed, wear­able pas­tel dresses and skirts fea­tur­ing palm frond pat­terns and tie-dye. His choice of footwear was down­right care­free.

“I thought, ‘How can we blend that sort of big city life with this bare­foot beach life? Cer­tainly, in my ca­reer we have never shown evening clothes with flip-flops. We are!” Kors said Wed­nes­day.

The male and fe­male mod­els – in­clud­ing Kate Up­ton, Ken­dall Jen­ner and Bella Ha­did – strut­ted along weath­ered wood planks meant to re­sem­ble a board­walk in front of a down­town au­di­ence that in­cluded Ni­cole Kid­man, Naomi Watts, Cather­ine Zeta-Jones and Yang Mi.

There were chunky sweaters, clas­sic trench coats and dou­ble­breasted blaz­ers. The dresses and skirts were in linen and crepe, in shades of pale pink, laven­der and loads of blue.

Strips of ma­te­rial streamed out of some of the cuffs, and shirt tails spilled free from jack­ets. Kors said much of the tai­lor­ing was meant to “catch the wind.” Se­quins sparkled se­duc­tively on some of the most in­ter­est­ing lay­ered dresses.

Back­stage, Kors said his cus­tomers know what works on them and his clothes know no po­lit­i­cal di­vide. Michelle Obama wore Kors and Me­la­nia Trump wore one of his belted coat dresses Mon­day.

“It’s so mod­ern and cut­ting edge,” Watts said. “Al­ways strong, stand­out pieces, but also re­ally wear­able.”

Zeta-Jones came with her daugh­ter, Carys, who com­pli­mented her fa­mous mom for her fash­ion sense. “I should put her in front of the cam­era more of­ten,” joked Mom.

A DES­PER­ATE HOUSE­WIFE, AT FASH­ION WEEK

Be­fore her first run­way show at New York Fash­ion Week, Eva Lon­go­ria buzzed around back­stage Wed­nes­day like a seam­stress. She cut ex­tra threads from gar­ments, ex­am­ined hem­lines and pointed out cloth­ing that needed steam­ing.

“This has been months of prepa­ra­tion,” said Lon­go­ria, who said she has been sewing since she was a child. “It’s been so much fun and it’s a dream come true, re­ally.”

The show opened with a seg­ment she calls #SetLife, based on Lon­go­ria’s own ca­reer. Af­ter star­ring as Gabrielle So­lis on “Des­per­ate House­wives” for eight sea­sons, Lon­go­ria has spent more time be­hind the cam­era as a pro­ducer and as a di­rec­tor.

“I didn’t want to look, you know, like a schlep be­hind the cam­era di­rect­ing,” she said. “I said, ‘I want to look cute but I need to be com­fort­able and I need to be func­tional and I need to get down on the floor and I need to set up shots. … And so I re­ally cre­ated this line for the women who do it all.”

Af­ter “ath­leisure” wear, the cat­walk tran­si­tioned to jump­suits made of printed crepe and washed twill and midi-length dresses with asym­met­ri­cal stripes. Lon­go­ria also fea­tured skinny high-rise jeans and midrise boyfriend de­struc­ted denim.

“It’s my global life­style brought to women at a great price, some­thing that’s fash­ion for­ward, some­thing that’s wear­able, some­thing that’s re­lat­able, some­thing that’s buyable and I think that’s im­por­tant to women,” Lon­go­ria said. “They want to in­vest in them­selves but in pieces that are not trends and they’re gonna throw away the next sea­son, clas­sic pieces that have a mod­ern twist.” – Agen­cies

MARC JA­COBS

Bareilles per­formed dur­ing the Michael Kors show.

MARCHESA

Lon­go­ria was busy back­stage mak­ing fi­nal ad­just­ments ahead of her show.

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