U Magazine - - SPECIAL - Pho­tog­ra­phy URIVALDO LOPES Art Di­rec­tion SLEIMAN DAYAA Hair & Makeup LAURE DANSOU Model SINZIANA HOROTON, Mar­i­lyn Agency Paris

Al­ber El­baz cel­e­brated 125 years of Lan­vin with­the­house’ss/s‘15 col­lec­tion; char­ac­ter­ized by its fierce, struc­tured and fem­i­nine vibes, in what com­mands the crowd­sand­makesyou the “Lan­vin woman” you were meant to be.

The Lan­vin woman: serene, re­gal, with no trace of arti!ce, of any­thing that could com­pro­mise her al­lure. She’s a woman that goes her way in com­plete free­dom. With all com­fort. Multi-faceted, sim­plic­ity is equaled only by the most so­phis­ti­cated cut. Whether it’s an ink blue, Lan­vin Blue asym­met­ric sheath or a dis­jointed over-stitched bro­cade dress, with its em­blem­atic raw edges, style feeds on re!ne­ment. Techno stretch gabar­dine in chalk or black, the che­quer­board look is here. An ab­so­lute che­quer­board where crum­pled wo­ven linen suits walk freely along­side sup­ple or­gandie trench coats and vir­ginal ter­ra­cotta washed silk satin dresses. In stiletto heels or neo-an­tique san­dals, a !gure ap­pears as %uid in silk satin or twill crepe as she is ar­chi­tec­tural in a mas­cara black linen duchess jacket. A skin-like wardrobe in shades of grey, khaki, ecru and nude in wo­ven and draped pat­terns. Just so many en­velop­ing, car­nal mists high­light­ing, in a play on net, slits, eye­lets and jew­eled straps: the move­ment of a body as it walks. When dawn breaks or twi­light falls, a very speci!c so(ness ap­pears, far from any kind of screech­ing, noisy vi­sion, far from oblig­a­tory fem­i­nin­ity, blinded by %ash­bulbs and false des­ti­na­tions. Strength is re­vealed in the in­ti­macy of a cock­tail dress like a short ka(an in or­gandie %ocked with cut threads. Par­adise hides no more, but it arises, in half-shades, both an­i­mal and plant, with a bro­cade coat “les singes %outés”, or a printed or­gandie dress “an­i­maux en cavale”, come to recre­ate in the city na­ture at her most sur­real and poetic. Be­cause a gown is worn as nat­u­rally as a T-shirt, be­cause the body of “thirty some­thing and more” women - Kirsten Owen, Am­ber Val­leta, Es­ther de Jong, Mal­go­sia Bela, Anne Cather­ine Lacroix, Vi­o­letta Sanchez – is de­ployed at its zenith, in the ab­so­lute ra­di­ance of a time where noth­ing stands still. A body which is at one with Lan­vin time. With­out pros­the­ses or wiring. Just high­lighted like a smile with a lick of sparkly red lip­stick… ready to love. To live. To give. Made to re­veal a per­son­al­ity, al­lowed to choose shad­ows as o(en as light.

Silk one-shoul­der slit de­tail gown and me­tal cuff, by Lan­vin

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