La Brasserie

U Magazine - - UTRENDS -

Con­tin­u­ing to im­press yet again, Karl Lager­feld suc­cess­fully show­cased the typ­i­cal and mod­ern­ized bour­geoisie French woman.

To ac­com­mo­date for Karl Lager­field’s love of brasseries in Paris, and the tra­di­tional de­signs of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, the de­signer staged 97 looks at his F/W ’15 bistro and café set­ting, dubbed “Brasserie Gabrielle” to re­flect the tra­di­tional French fash­ion with a twist. “Th­ese are clothes for lunch and din­ner,” as­serted Lager­feld, who made sure mod­els com­pleted their run­way strut with a visit to the brasserie for the typ­i­cal crois­sant or a café au lait. Lager­feld cre­ated the clas­sic Chanel tweed suit in a more mod­ern, em­bel­lished and struc­tured style, and em­pha­sized his de­signs through the use of dark col­ors of black, bur­gundy and navy, while con­trast­ing that with the slight use of beige, soft pink, white and vi­o­let to bring a volatile aes­thetic to his col­lec­tion. The styled sil­hou­ettes re­mained bal­anced be­tween tra­di­tion and moder­nity; check­ered coats, softly pat­terned knit dresses and turtle­neck sweaters added a con­ser­va­tive na­ture to the show; while em­bel­lished Pe­ter Pan col­lars, sheer dress shirts, la­tex midi skirts and se­quined coats with crys­tal em­broi­deries il­lus­trated a more mod­ern role of the typ­i­cal French woman. Al­most all looks were staged on a sin­gle style of shoe; the typ­i­cal 1950’s two-toned, mid-heeled sling­back. Bags of var­i­ous sizes cov­ered the run­way, mostly em­bel­lished in soft metal­lic fab­rics, tweed or sil­ver em­bel­lish­ments, and were ex­hib­ited in over­sized clutches as well. Jew­elry, such as metal­lic brooches, state­ment gold belts and beaded long neck­laces, adorned the mod­els. Fi­nally, head­bands cov­ered the mod­els’ short updos to em­pha­size an el­e­gant twist to the clas­si­cal French woman.

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