How to re­place a roof tile

Lesotho Times - - Property -

MISS­ING or bro­ken roof tiles al­low wa­ter to pen­e­trate the roof space and wind to lift more of the neigh­bour­ing tiles. If you at­tend to the prob­lem im­me­di­ately you won’t end up with se­ri­ous re­pairs later on.

Lad­der Wooden wedges Safety har­ness — if you have to climb onto the roof Ham­mer Cut­ters Bucket on a rope Re­place­ment tiles Tile clips Gala­vanised wire Flat-head nails

Here’s how:

You will need:

Safety first: Se­cure the lad­der firmly on its feet and wedged firmly against the

edge of the roof. With one hand, slide up the row of tiles im­me­di­ately above that over-laps the one that is to be re­placed. Use the han­dle of a ham­mer or a cou­ple of small wooden wedges to sup­port the tiles while you work. To re­move the bro­ken tile, tilt it side­ways to sep­a­rate it from the in­ter­lock­ing tiles. You should be able to free it with­out dis­turb­ing them.

Safety first: To keep your hands free, lower the bro­ken tile in a bucket on a

rope to a helper on the ground. -Lever the tile up­wards to re­lease it from any clip that holds it to the bat­ten. If the tile is wired to the bat­ten be­neath (ev­ery sec­ond course is) try reach­ing in un­der the tile above with cut­ters to snip the ties. Oth- er­wise, you will need to en­ter the roof space to free the tile. Take par­tic­u­lar care as old tiles be­come very brit­tle with age and are eas­ily dam­aged.

Care­fully brush dust and dirt from the grooves on the tiles either side of the space where the dam­aged tile was lo­cated. Be thor- ough, as it is th­ese grooves that pre­vent wa­ter en­ter­ing the roof space.

To fit the re­place­ment tile, in­sert the new tile at an an­gle, slide it into po­si­tion and make sure it en­gages with those on either side and is firmly locked in. Lower the layer of tiles above un­til they are back in place and

Re­plac­ing a tile cap or ridge tile The ridges of tiled roofs can weather and even­tu­ally leak. Fix­ing or re­plac­ing them is a sim­ple enough job, it’s the fact you’ll be work­ing at a height that’s daunt­ing. Don’t take chances — buy or hire a har­ness to wear when­ever you’re work­ing on the roof. Also watch out for haz­ards such as elec­tri­cal ca­bles, tree branches and aeri­als.

Re­move loose caps and chip away old mor­tar. Chip old bed­ding from caps us­ing an an­gle grinder for stub­born pieces. At­tach small cut tiles by nail­ing a 75mm gal­vanised flat­head nail in the top of the hip rafter and se­cure with wire. Lay caps in po­si­tion and mark with chalk.

Mix four parts river sand to one part ce­ment, add wa­ter un­til creamy. Lay sausage­shaped mor­tar in­side the chalk line. Se­cure starter cap with wire around a 75mm gal­vanised flat­head nail 150mm above.

Press in the cap, keep­ing mor­tar 20mm thick at high­est point of the tile. Fill gaps with mor­tar and flush to the edge of the cap. When dry, trowel flex­i­ble coloured point­ing com­pound 5mm thick over the mor­tar and col­lar of the caps.

— Home-dzine.

Don’t wait for miss­ing or bro­ken tiles to be­come a se­ri­ous prob­lem. Act promptly to fix the prob­lem.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Lesotho

© PressReader. All rights reserved.