Get creative as runway coifs reach new heights (and shapes) this season.
Hair this season has gone to epic heights
With every new fashion season, the promise of reinvention and transformation is renewed. As they say, the devil is in the detail, and the beauty looks across the runways this season were no exception, displaying waves of inspiration and plenty more to wear. Texture, shape and contour were all important themes, embraced everywhere from Etro’s brocades to Yohji Yamamoto’s minimalistic yet sensual silhouettes.
Amid the shows’ painterly eye shadows and glittering pouts, hair played a structural and statement-making role, especially for pared-back make-up looks (it’s far easier to get away with the otherworldly hair seen at Byblos than the otherworldly make-up at Manish Arora). The common denominator among this season’s updos was structure, where stylists sculpted tresses inspired by past eras. “At Céline the hair is very Célineesque, which means that it is simple and minimal. I used Redken Mess Around 10 on the roots to give the hair a bit of hold and texture. I wanted the product to hold the lines created as I raked my fingers through the hair. This technique made the style feel masculine in a way,” explains Guido, Redken’s Creative Consultant.
The ’60s sparked the interest of Guido, who drew influence from the decade for hairstyles at Valentino. “The collection this season felt more eclectic, so I wanted the hair at Valentino to be more whimsical and playful,” he muses. “I created a simple part and added a little bit of height at the crown to give the hair a late ’60s kind of feel. Regardless of these youthful subtitles, the vibe remained true to the brand’s identity. The hair is beautiful and very Valentino.”
Some shows had, dare we say, moments of heightened hair drama. Just take a look at Jean Paul Gaultier and Wunderkind. “It looked slightly ’50s or ’60s from the front, with a very tight front going into a raised section, which elongated the shape of the head,” says Eugene Souleiman, global creative director of Wella on the hair-raising look he sculpted at Wunderkind.
The 1940s also appeared to be sources of inspiration for Souleiman at Antonio Marras, where he used the classic Varga girl as his muse and created victory rolls on either side of the head which he described as almost quiff-like. “The collection featured a lot of textured fabrics, mostly at the hemlines and below the waist, so I wanted to balance it at the top with hair that was a little harder and sexier,” he explains.
However you put your hair up, it’s evident that modern twists are a must. To achieve your desired effect, here’s a tip from Souleiman: “It’s good to have an idea of the chemical structure behind products,” he advises. “Sometimes if you use the wrong products together, they can cancel each other out. If your hair is in great condition, and you want to add volume to it, it’s best to layer the products. Apply anything that gives volume first, and then add a polish straight afterwards to heighten the shine finish.” So, on that note, get building.