This season’s collections have had an attitude adjustment. Shahrezzan Ezani counts the streetsmart knockouts as fashion houses battle it out
Runway style takes it to the streets
Street style icons had a huge impact on the Autumn/Winter ’14 collections, with many runways mirroring the multi-faceted trends usually spotted outside the fashion tents. The influence of bold individuals such as Kate Lanphear and Emmanuelle Alt, as well as the more zany characters of Leandra Medine and Susie Bubble, made it one of the coolest seasons yet. Isabel Marant smelled teen spirit, sending out looks with hints of grunge chic in Cobain cardis and plaid, and a primarily army green palette, while freshman Public School was more literal in bringing street fashion to the catwalk via baggy shorts, flannel and beanies.
Pants continue to make it big, so pack away your cropped skinnies. Alexander Wang, Dries Van Noten and Jason Wu have dropped trouser hemlines all the way to the floor — yes, that means the focus on shoes is no more, which explains why statement heels have been AWOL for A/W ’14.
Surprisingly, Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci toned down his street rep for fall, instead introducing a sophistication that did not scream for attention in both the menswear and womenswear collections.
Hip-hip, techno and electronica all clamoured for the limelight as soundtracks to some very fierce collections. Altuzarra, Rick Owens and the very exciting Sacai battle-rapped with exaggerated parkas, bombers and sweaters. Meanwhile, Kenzo’s neon prints and Peter Pilotto’s bright reds and yellows amped up the bass and took graphic prints up a decibel or two.