Hip hop never dies
The Grandmaster of fashion, Marc Jacobs, takes it back to the streets
The set: The New York Park Avenue Armory, where every guest had a frontrow seat (alongside celebrity guests Katy Perry and Lottie Moss) on metal folding chairs forming two long lines that spanned the length of the building. The set was stripped down to the bare basics; no lights, no frills, not even a soundtrack to signal the start of the show. Just a girl starting down the runway in utter silence followed by a diverse cast of 39 other models including Adwoa Aboah, Kendall Jenner, Jamie Bochert and Winnie Harlow.
Show notes: “It is an acknowledgment and gesture of my respect for the polish and consideration applied to fashion from a generation that will forever be the foundation of youth culture street style.”
The clothes: A fur-collared coat over a shimmery thigh-baring party dress, baggy jeans with hems that puddled over red platform boots and the coolest red tracksuits that looked like they were taken straight out of an ’80s New York b-boy’s closet. This was Marc Jacobs’ representation of a “wellstudied dressing up of casual sportswear”, the result of his fascination with the early days of rap and the documentary Hip Hop
Evolution. Clothes were a departure from last season’s dizzying, rave-inspired aesthetic with an urban palette that skewed towards warm neutrals of camel, ginger, gold and brown injected with shots of red, wine and rust. There were plenty of boxy, oversized shearling jackets, plaid coats and lavish fur-muff sleeves – both real and faux, thick, patterned knits with chunky zippers and a ton of corduroy in ’70s-style flared pants and short coats. Shoes were clunky and retro in the form of stacked heels and tall platform boots in waxed, antiqued leathers while jewellery was big, bold and blinged out courtesy of artist Urs Fischer, who put crystal encrusted earrings, heavy gold chains and gilded mice pendants on models. To punctuate the collection? Andre-3000 style bucket hats, bowlers and paperboy caps with exaggerated crowns by milliner Stephen Jones in shades of beige and taupe, cheetah fur, leopard prints and all-over sequins that gave an affirmative nod to the gritty hip hop style taken right off the streets of New York.
Highlights: No mobile phone photography was permitted as guests were told to experience the show with their own eyes instead of through the lens. After models exited the building to Park Avenue, they took a final pose, sat down on folding chairs in front of a colossal wall of old-school speakers blasting Isaac Hayes’ 1969 classic,
Walk On By and started snapping #selfies and taking pictures of departing guests with iPhones covered in tan leather cases.
Front-row faces: Zosia Mamet, Sara Sampaio, Katy Perry, Chiara Ferragni, Irene Kim.
Models walked a silent runway
Accessories were heavy and blinged out, hats were exaggerated and shoes chunky