Hip hop never dies

The Grand­mas­ter of fash­ion, Marc Ja­cobs, takes it back to the streets

ELLE (Malaysia) - - RADAR -

The set: The New York Park Av­enue Ar­mory, where ev­ery guest had a fron­trow seat (along­side celebrity guests Katy Perry and Lot­tie Moss) on metal fold­ing chairs form­ing two long lines that spanned the length of the build­ing. The set was stripped down to the bare ba­sics; no lights, no frills, not even a sound­track to sig­nal the start of the show. Just a girl start­ing down the run­way in ut­ter si­lence fol­lowed by a di­verse cast of 39 other mod­els in­clud­ing Ad­woa Aboah, Ken­dall Jen­ner, Jamie Bochert and Win­nie Har­low.

Show notes: “It is an ac­knowl­edg­ment and ges­ture of my re­spect for the pol­ish and con­sid­er­a­tion ap­plied to fash­ion from a gen­er­a­tion that will for­ever be the foun­da­tion of youth cul­ture street style.”

The clothes: A fur-col­lared coat over a shim­mery thigh-bar­ing party dress, baggy jeans with hems that pud­dled over red plat­form boots and the coolest red track­suits that looked like they were taken straight out of an ’80s New York b-boy’s closet. This was Marc Ja­cobs’ rep­re­sen­ta­tion of a “well­stud­ied dress­ing up of ca­sual sports­wear”, the re­sult of his fas­ci­na­tion with the early days of rap and the doc­u­men­tary Hip Hop

Evo­lu­tion. Clothes were a de­par­ture from last sea­son’s dizzy­ing, rave-in­spired aes­thetic with an ur­ban pal­ette that skewed to­wards warm neu­trals of camel, gin­ger, gold and brown in­jected with shots of red, wine and rust. There were plenty of boxy, over­sized shear­ling jack­ets, plaid coats and lav­ish fur-muff sleeves – both real and faux, thick, pat­terned knits with chunky zip­pers and a ton of cor­duroy in ’70s-style flared pants and short coats. Shoes were clunky and retro in the form of stacked heels and tall plat­form boots in waxed, an­tiqued leathers while jew­ellery was big, bold and blinged out cour­tesy of artist Urs Fis­cher, who put crystal en­crusted ear­rings, heavy gold chains and gilded mice pen­dants on mod­els. To punc­tu­ate the col­lec­tion? An­dre-3000 style bucket hats, bowlers and pa­per­boy caps with ex­ag­ger­ated crowns by milliner Stephen Jones in shades of beige and taupe, chee­tah fur, leop­ard prints and all-over se­quins that gave an af­fir­ma­tive nod to the gritty hip hop style taken right off the streets of New York.

High­lights: No mo­bile phone pho­tog­ra­phy was per­mit­ted as guests were told to ex­pe­ri­ence the show with their own eyes in­stead of through the lens. Af­ter mod­els ex­ited the build­ing to Park Av­enue, they took a fi­nal pose, sat down on fold­ing chairs in front of a colos­sal wall of old-school speak­ers blast­ing Isaac Hayes’ 1969 clas­sic,

Walk On By and started snap­ping #self­ies and tak­ing pic­tures of de­part­ing guests with iPhones cov­ered in tan leather cases.

Front-row faces: Zosia Mamet, Sara Sam­paio, Katy Perry, Chiara Fer­ragni, Irene Kim.

Mod­els walked a silent run­way

Ac­ces­sories were heavy and blinged out, hats were ex­ag­ger­ated and shoes chunky

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