Wrap yourself up in the season’s most luxe fabric
As the year wears on, even here near the Equator people begin reaching for the richer, heavier fabrics, dense with metallic thread, shimmering designs and brocaded florals. Jacquard is a textile synonymous with the cooler months and the year-end countdown to party season,andthisyeardesignersdraped,wrapped and folded it in new and fluid combinations. Whether in traditional jewel tones or lighter, brighter shades, jacquard formed the basis of some of the season’s most elegant looks, often with an inescapable touch of orientalism.
It can be hard to mentally separate jacquard from chinoiserie: images of embroidered dragons and crane-covered cheongsams come to mind. Luckily there was nothing so obvious or gauche on the runways, though Gucci did dip a toe into the generic oriental waters by pairing a marigold jacquard suit with a rice paper parasol. In typical Alessandro Michele fashion though, the suit sported an oversized ’70s-style collar, and the parasol was covered in graffiti-like scrawling.
Elsewhere, jacquard took on new, joyful proportions. At Dolce & Gabbana, a glorious jumble of colours and patterns collided in a patchwork, sequin-edged housecoat-like garment. Etro overlaid a orange jacquard with cosy knit pockets and Osman paired a raspberry skirt with glitter boots and a classic leather jacket. Jacquard in all its iterations is a fabric made for mixing, and London designers Mary Katrantzou and Erdem accordingly matched and clashed patterns and colours across dresses, jackets and suits. Which is not to say that the right jacquard does not lend itself to a single, statement shot: Christopher Kane updated a shift dress with cantaloupe-coloured brocade and origami pleats, while Sarah Burton stitched together silky eggshell jacquard in fluid shapes. If you’re looking to try the trend, this is the easiest way to do it – then when you’re ready, pull out the coat of many colours.
Etro Osman Dolce & Gabbana Giorgio Armani Gucci