mas­ter mix­ers

Wrap your­self up in the sea­son’s most luxe fab­ric

ELLE (Malaysia) - - RADAR TREND -

As the year wears on, even here near the Equa­tor peo­ple be­gin reach­ing for the richer, heav­ier fab­rics, dense with metal­lic thread, shim­mer­ing de­signs and bro­caded flo­rals. Jac­quard is a tex­tile synony­mous with the cooler months and the year-end count­down to party sea­son,andthisyearde­sign­ers­draped,wrapped and folded it in new and fluid com­bi­na­tions. Whether in tra­di­tional jewel tones or lighter, brighter shades, jac­quard formed the ba­sis of some of the sea­son’s most el­e­gant looks, of­ten with an in­escapable touch of ori­en­tal­ism.

It can be hard to men­tally sep­a­rate jac­quard from chi­nois­erie: im­ages of em­broi­dered drag­ons and crane-cov­ered cheongsams come to mind. Luck­ily there was noth­ing so ob­vi­ous or gauche on the run­ways, though Gucci did dip a toe into the generic ori­en­tal wa­ters by pair­ing a marigold jac­quard suit with a rice pa­per para­sol. In typ­i­cal Alessan­dro Michele fash­ion though, the suit sported an over­sized ’70s-style col­lar, and the para­sol was cov­ered in graf­fiti-like scrawl­ing.

Else­where, jac­quard took on new, joy­ful pro­por­tions. At Dolce & Gab­bana, a glo­ri­ous jum­ble of colours and pat­terns col­lided in a patch­work, se­quin-edged house­coat-like gar­ment. Etro over­laid a orange jac­quard with cosy knit pock­ets and Os­man paired a rasp­berry skirt with glit­ter boots and a clas­sic leather jacket. Jac­quard in all its it­er­a­tions is a fab­ric made for mix­ing, and Lon­don de­sign­ers Mary Ka­trant­zou and Er­dem ac­cord­ingly matched and clashed pat­terns and colours across dresses, jack­ets and suits. Which is not to say that the right jac­quard does not lend it­self to a sin­gle, state­ment shot: Christo­pher Kane up­dated a shift dress with can­taloupe-coloured bro­cade and origami pleats, while Sarah Bur­ton stitched to­gether silky eggshell jac­quard in fluid shapes. If you’re look­ing to try the trend, this is the eas­i­est way to do it – then when you’re ready, pull out the coat of many colours.

Etro Os­man Dolce & Gab­bana Gior­gio Ar­mani Gucci

Mary Ka­trant­zou


Christo­pher Kane

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