Ready to wear

Dior re­sponds to your liq­uid lip­stick ob­ses­sion with the ul­ti­mate lux­ury line

ELLE (Malaysia) - - BEAUTY FEATURE - Pe­ter Philips’ Rouge Dior Liq­uid Tips The school­ing we’ve waited for all our lives

Let it be known that makeup mae­stro Pe­ter Philips, the cre­ative and im­age di­rec­tor of Chris­tian Dior Makeup, en­joys a YouTube makeup tu­to­rial. “Spec­tac­u­lar ap­pli­ca­tions like [those with] liq­uid lip­sticks… a girl with big lips do­ing a beau­ti­ful matte beige or a blue or a red, and it looks so ef­fort­less, it looks spec­tac­u­lar,” he straight up gushes when we meet in Tokyo.

In world sat­u­rated with makeup artists – sea­soned, bud­ding, as­pir­ing, niche – Philips is a sin­gu­lar force. While hon­ing his craft in Lon­don’s mag­a­zines, he built a rep­u­ta­tion for so­phis­ti­ca­tion and in­spired fem­i­nin­ity, work­ing with a who’s who of pho­tog­ra­phers that in­cluded Inez van Lam­sweerde and Vi­noodh Matadin, Steven Klein and Craig McDean. He’s also been re­spon­si­ble for a lion’s share of bound­ary-push­ing run­way makeup looks at Alexan­der McQueen, Mai­son Martin Margiela and of course Chris­tian Dior, his home base since 2014.

So here we are shar­ing a couch, as Philips speaks freely of his ad­mi­ra­tion for beauty vlogs, ex­cept for one thing: those liq­uid lip­sticks that lend them­selves to such beau­ti­ful sweeps of colour? They’re not quite so for­giv­ing in real life. “Af­ter an hour, you can’t move your lips,” he says. “It doesn’t age nicely. It fades, it’s un­com­fort­able and it’s dam­ag­ing. Be­cause it’s such hard­core pig­ments, you know? There’s no re­fine­ment in the for­mu­las. It’s very much in­stant makeup.”

Some of his friends have bought into the fan­tasy, spent money on prod­ucts, and pro­ceeded to get ex­tremely frus­trated about their in­abil­ity to repli­cate the lit­er­ally flaw­less pouts they have seen. “They say ‘Oh my god, it looks so amaz­ing on the In­ter­net and I can’t do it,’ and they think it’s their fault,” he says. The Bel­gian makeup leg­end wasn’t hav­ing it. “I think it’s a for­mula prob­lem.”

He turned it into his per­sonal mis­sion to cre­ate a for­mula that of­fers all the prom­ises of liq­uid lip colour – smooth ap­pli­ca­tion, long wear, a beau­ti­ful fin­ish – but also com­fort. Just as well. His em­ploy­ers at Dior Makeup have more than 50 years of lab­o­ra­tory

philips’ mis­sion: to cre­ate a for­mula with all the prom­ises of liq­uid lip colour, but also com­fort.

ex­pe­ri­ence and quite eas­ily pro­duced the 29-shade col­lec­tion, out now. Just cre­at­ing a great matte fin­ish, how­ever, would be aim­ing too low. Along­side the sta­ple, Philips has de­vised shade fam­i­lies with vel­vet, metal­lic and satin ef­fects.

The Vel­vet Nudes can be used for any­thing from a Six­ties pale lip to a pol­ished, full taupe. (Check out Jun­gle Matte 614, an al­most-uni­ver­sally flat­ter­ing neu­tral brown.) Liq­uid Elec­tric Metal may be the most rad­i­cal range Dior has ever cre­ated, with a fin­ish akin to nail var­nish, and shades rang­ing from the flam­ing cop­per of Rock’N’Metal 751 to gem-like Poi­son Metal 979. Colours in the Liq­uid Pop Satin fam­ily pro­vide just the right amount of sheen; see Fab Satin, a black­ened plum with a satin fin­ish, and what Philips calls “the best Dior Rouge Liq­uid.”

The cre­ative class

If you ever had any doubt that your side thing could evolve into a main thing, see Pe­ter Philips. What be­gan for him as a rou­tine deep-dive into the Dior archives for pack­ag­ing in­spi­ra­tion snow­balled into one-half of Au­tumn’s mega lip­stick launch. “I was do­ing re­search for pack­ag­ing ideas, so I made a lit­tle file of old pack­ag­ing from Dior and made a lit­tle moodboard,” he re­calls. “And on my moodboard there was this pic­ture of a Nineties lip­stick from Dior.”

When he shopped the ideas to some mil­len­nial col­leagues, he was stunned by their very, very good re­ac­tions to the prod­uct it­self. Sport­ing an outer ring and dif­fer­ent in­ner core, one of the most mem­o­rable de­signs of the decade had ap­par­ently pre­dated this young au­di­ence com­pletely, ren­der­ing the con­cept fresh in their eyes. “They were like, is this like a new prod­uct? Is it like an om­bré ef­fect?” he shares, amused.

This un­ex­pected in­ter­est from pre­cisely the right de­mo­graphic war­ranted fur­ther in­ves­ti­ga­tion. What’s old can be given new life, Philips thought. Tak­ing Au­tumn 2017’s col­lec­tion of matte and metal­lic fin­ishes as his tem­plate, he de­cided on matte outer rings, to ef­fec­tively func­tion as li­plin­ers, matched with metal­lic in­sides for a plumped up, pop ef­fect, and set out craft­ing colour com­bi­na­tions.

The first was mined from the decade of grunge, with a matte taupe ring sur­round­ing pearles­cent pink. Once ap­plied, it’s an ob­vi­ous up­date of the su­per­model con­toured lip: dark beige out­side and pale in­side. Many shades are eclec­tic vari­a­tions of an in­tense matte and lighter metal­lic, while oth­ers are mono­tone. Dior’s iconic 999 Matte, for ex­am­ple, has been given a metal­lic red core. There are also tone-on­tones in tan­ger­ine, fuch­sia and sweet pink. “We tried a lot… I ended up with 20 sticks, which means 40 colours. It started as a side project but be­came much big­ger,” says Philips.

You can blame serendip­ity for Dior Dou­ble Rouge, but it’s 100 per cent Philips’ in­tu­ition for slightly off-kil­ter ex­plo­sions of colour and tex­ture that re­ally make these cheeky lip­sticks.

Rouge Dior Liq­uid, RM125

“If you have strong shades like Rouge Liq­uid in Poi­son Metal 979, do a very soft smoky eye in brown tones. A soft glowy blush it will con­nect ev­ery­thing and be­come more har­mo­nious.” “When you do metallics on your lips, I wouldn’t do metal­lic on the eye be­cause then it be­comes very robotic.” “Rouge Liq­uid in Miss Satin 162 is very light, but be­cause it has a satin fin­ish it be­comes lu­mi­nous and doesn’t look that pale. But it’s nice to have a bit of coral blush on your eyes and a bit of eye­liner or eye­shadow to bal­ance it out.” “With the Rouge Liq­uid in Hologlam 601, dab on your fin­gers and place a lit­tle bit on your cheek for high­light.” Rouge Dior Dou­ble Rouge, RM125

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