IN­DIS­PEN­SI­BLE

In the first half of the year, ev­ery ma­jor watch­maker launched a plethora of watches. For a vast majority of them, the brands made it very clear that they wanted to high­light; with­out hes­i­ta­tion, the val­ues of mas­culin­ity. Th­ese are some of our fa­vorites.

Esquire Malaysia Watch Guide - - Contents - Words by José Hernández

We showcase a se­lec­tion of time­pieces that will en­tice you to suc­cumb to their power of at­trac­tion.

AN­TOINE MARTIN

Master­piece No. 1 comes with a 46mm pink gold case and 11 com­pli­ca­tions— equa­tion of time, in­di­ca­tion of sun­rise and sun­set, zo­diac signs, and tour­bil­lon ret­ro­grade moon phase in­di­ca­tion to 9 o’clock. How­ever, what is strik­ing is in the rear. A small win­dow that dis­plays a map of the Earth with de­grees of lat­i­tude marked by a red line. For what pur­pose? It is a com­pli­ca­tion called “de­cline” used by nav­i­ga­tors in the 19th cen­tury to de­ter­mine where the Sun is at 90 de­grees at noon. Its AM 39,003 au­to­matic cal­i­bre has a power re­serve of 144 hours. It is limited to five pieces and has an al­li­ga­tor strap.

AUDE­MARS PIGUET MIL­LENARY MINUTE RE­PEATER

The aes­thet­ics of this watch, with hours and min­utes off-cen­tre, al­ways at­tract at­ten­tion. This year, Aude­mars Piguet pre­sented their lovely oval case of 47mm rose gold, un­like its first 2011 ver­sion made of ti­ta­nium. Hand-wound cal­i­bre 2928 is equipped with the in­no­va­tive AP es­cape­ment, of­fer­ing the wearer one of the most ad­mired com­pli­ca­tions in watch­mak­ing. Note that this piece has three bar­rels; two for the power re­serve of seven days and the third to push the minute re­peater. with an Al­li­ga­tor leather strap.

A LANGE & SÖHNE

“The pas­sion for per­fec­tion” is not an empty phrase in the case of A Lange & Söhne. It ac­tu­ally de­scribes the work of the Saxon watch­mak­ers who have cre­ated a tour­bil­lon that ex­ceeds the pre­vi­ous Lange de­vel­op­ments by nearly a mil­lime­tre. They also sur­prised the watch­mak­ing world by hav­ing a sys­tem that can stop the pro­gres­sion of the tour­bil­lon by stop­ping the de­vice and re­set­ting. The rose gold or plat­inum case with the lat­ter is limited to 100 copies. It has 72-hour power re­serve. With a crocodile leather strap.

BALL WATCH EN­GI­NEER II MAG­NETO S WATCH

Mag­netism is one of the worst en­e­mies of watches. There­fore, Ball de­vel­oped the anti-mag­netic de­vice A-Proof that pro­tects up to 80,000 am­peres—the min­i­mum is 4,800 to be con­sid­ered non-mag­netic. The de­vice is made of a ma­te­rial called “mumetal”, an al­loy of nickel, iron, cop­per and molyb­de­num. This metal was used in the aper­ture leaf in the back of the watch and is opened or closed by ro­tat­ing the bezel; when not in use it al­lows ob­ser­va­tion of the au­to­matic cal­i­bre RR1103- CSL. The case is made of steel, while the straps are made of su­per tough Cor­dura fi­bre.

BLANC­PAIN VILLERET 12-DAY FLY­ING TOUR­BIL­LON

Ex­ceed­ing the lim­its is a con­stant chal­lenge for watch­mak­ers Blanc­pain, who have al­ready achieved a re­spectable range of eight days in an au­to­matic tour­bil­lion for the past 18 years. This time they de­cided to sig­nif­i­cantly in­crease that num­ber and bring the re­serve up to 12 days; that is, 288 hours achieved with a sin­gle bar­rel. That is not the only sur­prise, as the new au­to­matic cal­i­bre 242 also in­cludes a sil­i­con spring and an an­chor with lugs of the same ma­te­rial to mit­i­gate the ef­fects of mag­netic fields. Its 42mm case is made of plat­inum, the dial has Grand Feu enamel in white, and the strap is made of al­li­ga­tor leather.

SPEAKE-MARIN SPIRIT SEAFIRE

Bri­tish watch­maker Peter Speake-Marin this year presents its first chrono­graph. The 42mm has the clas­sic look of the Pic­cadilly brand and is made in grade 5 ti­ta­nium. The dial in­cludes the date at 3 o’clock and the small in­di­ca­tor seconds wheel with a Speake-Marin logo at 9 o’clock; all hands and white el­e­ments are coated with Su­per-Lu­miNova to en­sure read­abil­ity both day and night. Au­to­matic cal­i­bre C99001-D pro­vides 48 hours of power re­serve. Leather strap in brown with white stitch­ing.

CO­RUM AD­MI­RAL’S CUP AC-ONE 45 TIDES

The cal­iber CO277 present in this land­mark Co­rum watch is not only able to show hours, min­utes, seconds and date, but also in­di­cates the hours and the tidal range, the cy­cle of moons, the cur­rent strength and the height of the wa­ter. Pre­sented in 1992 after three years of de­vel­op­ment is now pro­tected by a grade 5 ti­ta­nium 45mm case, in some ar­eas blue PVD-treated. The dial is blue, like the vul­can­ised rub­ber bracelet with a fold­ing clasp. It is wa­ter resistant to 300m.

BRE­ITLING BENT­LEY GMT LIGHT BODY B04

The light­ness of this watch is down to the case—ul­tra light­weight ti­ta­nium mea­sured at 49mm. The piece is linked to the mar­que of Bri­tish road­sters, present on the bezel, and in­spired by the grid of the ra­di­a­tor of those cars. In ad­di­tion to the chrono­graph com­pli­ca­tion, it of­fers a sec­ond time­zone and time dis­play in 24 dif­fer­ent ci­ties, which can be ad­justed by pulling out the crown and turn­ing for­ward or back­ward by one hour jumps. It is equipped with man­u­fac­ture B04 au­to­matic move­ment with 70 hours power re­serve. Rub­ber strap.

TU­DOR HER­ITAGE BLACK BAY

Fol­low­ing the suc­cess it achieved in 2013 with the Her­itage Chrono Blue, Tu­dor presents this rein­ter­pre­ta­tion of its first div­ing watch, the Sub­mariner, dat­ing from 1954 and fol­low­ing the glass domed and de­sign premises. The crown is a nod to another model of 1958, with the ref­er­ence 7924, called "Big Crown" by col­lec­tors; while the an­gu­lar hands are known as "snowflakes" and were used by the brand from 1969 to the ’80s. The steel case pro­tects the au­to­matic Cal­i­bre 2824 Tu­dor with 38 hours of power re­serve, and is wa­ter resistant to 200m. It has a uni­di­rec­tional bezel and in­ter­change­able bracelets.

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