In the first half of the year, every major watchmaker launched a plethora of watches. For a vast majority of them, the brands made it very clear that they wanted to highlight; without hesitation, the values of masculinity. These are some of our favorites.
We showcase a selection of timepieces that will entice you to succumb to their power of attraction.
Masterpiece No. 1 comes with a 46mm pink gold case and 11 complications— equation of time, indication of sunrise and sunset, zodiac signs, and tourbillon retrograde moon phase indication to 9 o’clock. However, what is striking is in the rear. A small window that displays a map of the Earth with degrees of latitude marked by a red line. For what purpose? It is a complication called “decline” used by navigators in the 19th century to determine where the Sun is at 90 degrees at noon. Its AM 39,003 automatic calibre has a power reserve of 144 hours. It is limited to five pieces and has an alligator strap.
AUDEMARS PIGUET MILLENARY MINUTE REPEATER
The aesthetics of this watch, with hours and minutes off-centre, always attract attention. This year, Audemars Piguet presented their lovely oval case of 47mm rose gold, unlike its first 2011 version made of titanium. Hand-wound calibre 2928 is equipped with the innovative AP escapement, offering the wearer one of the most admired complications in watchmaking. Note that this piece has three barrels; two for the power reserve of seven days and the third to push the minute repeater. with an Alligator leather strap.
A LANGE & SÖHNE
“The passion for perfection” is not an empty phrase in the case of A Lange & Söhne. It actually describes the work of the Saxon watchmakers who have created a tourbillon that exceeds the previous Lange developments by nearly a millimetre. They also surprised the watchmaking world by having a system that can stop the progression of the tourbillon by stopping the device and resetting. The rose gold or platinum case with the latter is limited to 100 copies. It has 72-hour power reserve. With a crocodile leather strap.
BALL WATCH ENGINEER II MAGNETO S WATCH
Magnetism is one of the worst enemies of watches. Therefore, Ball developed the anti-magnetic device A-Proof that protects up to 80,000 amperes—the minimum is 4,800 to be considered non-magnetic. The device is made of a material called “mumetal”, an alloy of nickel, iron, copper and molybdenum. This metal was used in the aperture leaf in the back of the watch and is opened or closed by rotating the bezel; when not in use it allows observation of the automatic calibre RR1103- CSL. The case is made of steel, while the straps are made of super tough Cordura fibre.
BLANCPAIN VILLERET 12-DAY FLYING TOURBILLON
Exceeding the limits is a constant challenge for watchmakers Blancpain, who have already achieved a respectable range of eight days in an automatic tourbillion for the past 18 years. This time they decided to significantly increase that number and bring the reserve up to 12 days; that is, 288 hours achieved with a single barrel. That is not the only surprise, as the new automatic calibre 242 also includes a silicon spring and an anchor with lugs of the same material to mitigate the effects of magnetic fields. Its 42mm case is made of platinum, the dial has Grand Feu enamel in white, and the strap is made of alligator leather.
SPEAKE-MARIN SPIRIT SEAFIRE
British watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin this year presents its first chronograph. The 42mm has the classic look of the Piccadilly brand and is made in grade 5 titanium. The dial includes the date at 3 o’clock and the small indicator seconds wheel with a Speake-Marin logo at 9 o’clock; all hands and white elements are coated with Super-LumiNova to ensure readability both day and night. Automatic calibre C99001-D provides 48 hours of power reserve. Leather strap in brown with white stitching.
CORUM ADMIRAL’S CUP AC-ONE 45 TIDES
The caliber CO277 present in this landmark Corum watch is not only able to show hours, minutes, seconds and date, but also indicates the hours and the tidal range, the cycle of moons, the current strength and the height of the water. Presented in 1992 after three years of development is now protected by a grade 5 titanium 45mm case, in some areas blue PVD-treated. The dial is blue, like the vulcanised rubber bracelet with a folding clasp. It is water resistant to 300m.
BREITLING BENTLEY GMT LIGHT BODY B04
The lightness of this watch is down to the case—ultra lightweight titanium measured at 49mm. The piece is linked to the marque of British roadsters, present on the bezel, and inspired by the grid of the radiator of those cars. In addition to the chronograph complication, it offers a second timezone and time display in 24 different cities, which can be adjusted by pulling out the crown and turning forward or backward by one hour jumps. It is equipped with manufacture B04 automatic movement with 70 hours power reserve. Rubber strap.
TUDOR HERITAGE BLACK BAY
Following the success it achieved in 2013 with the Heritage Chrono Blue, Tudor presents this reinterpretation of its first diving watch, the Submariner, dating from 1954 and following the glass domed and design premises. The crown is a nod to another model of 1958, with the reference 7924, called "Big Crown" by collectors; while the angular hands are known as "snowflakes" and were used by the brand from 1969 to the ’80s. The steel case protects the automatic Calibre 2824 Tudor with 38 hours of power reserve, and is water resistant to 200m. It has a unidirectional bezel and interchangeable bracelets.