MORE IN RE­SERVE

Set­ting new stan­dards in power re­serve.

Esquire Malaysia Watch Guide - - Watch Innovasions of 2014 - Words by Ivan Lim

WHILE THE MOST

ad­vanced tech­nol­ogy may nei­ther halt nor has­ten the pas­sage of time, horo­log­i­cal in­no­va­tions have cer­tainly en­abled watches to mea­sure it with in­creas­ing ac­cu­racy and for sub­stan­tially longer pe­ri­ods. Through a se­ries of five ar­ti­cles, Esquire will un­cover tech­no­log­i­cal break­throughs set to im­pact the watch mar­ket in 2014 and beyond.

Among au­to­matic watches, one sig­nif­i­cant in­no­va­tion would be the 80 Hours Power Re­serve. With this in­no­va­tion, a fully wound move­ment can last 80 hours with­out fur­ther wind­ing by its wearer.

The Swatch Group and LVMH Group have re­spec­tively in­tro­duced ver­sions of the 80 Hours Power Re­serve with the Tis­sot Pow­er­matic 80 se­ries (in­cor­po­rat­ing the new ETA CO7.111 move­ment) in 2013 and the Tag Heuer Car­rera CH 80 se­ries in 2014. Present mass mar­ket watches (USD5,00010,000) of­ten con­tain move­ments from mak­ers such as ETA, Eterna and Selitta, and fea­ture power re­serves of 40—60 hours. In the lux­ury seg­ment, where prices eas­ily ex­ceed USD320,000 for a plat­inum Vacheron Con­stantin Pat­ri­mony Tra­di­tionelle 14 Day Tour­bil­lon, man­u­fac­tures like IWC, Jaeger-LeCoul­tre and Of­ficine Pan­erai have pro­duced move­ments run­ning from 168 to 336 hours. While cer­tainly not the move­ment with the great­est power re­serve; that hon­our goes to Hublot’s MP- 05 LaFer­rari wrist­watch at 1,200 hours with a USD330,000 price tag, the 80 hours power re­serve from the Swatch Group and LVMH Group rep­re­sents an op­por­tu­nity for watch lovers to own high qual­ity, en­dur­ing in­stru­ments at rel­a­tively ac­ces­si­ble price points of USD850–1550 for Tis­sot’s Pow­er­matic watches and around USD5,500 for pieces from the Car­rera CH 80 se­ries. It is note­wor­thy that the higher priced Tis­sot watches are C.O.S.C cer­ti­fied, al­low­ing them to bear the name “chronome­ter” and thus the­o­ret­i­cally be­long to the same tech­ni­cal league as watches from Rolex, Omega and Bre­itling which bear the sig­na­ture red seal.

From a tech­ni­cal view­point, the 80 Hours Power Re­serve rep­re­sents sev­eral strides for­ward. ETA, Swatch Group’s move­ment pro­duc­tion arm, based it’s C07.111 move­ment on the ETA 2824-2 move­ment which has a power re­serve of about 40 hours. Among many changes, the op­er­at­ing fre­quency was re­duced from 28,800 vph to 21,600vph (vi­bra­tions per hour), which max­imises the en­ergy from the main­spring. Ad­di­tion­ally, a new syn­thetic ma­te­rial used in mak­ing the es­cape­ment re­duces fric­tion, thus wast­ing less en­ergy. Fur­ther­more, re­duc­ing the di­am­e­ter of the bar­rel-ar­bor’s core (the bar­rel con­tains the main­spring) al­lows for a longer main­spring which yields more en­ergy when coiled. Man­u­fac­tured in Tag Heur’s new Chevenez fa­cil­ity, from which the move­ment de­rives it’s name, CH 80 is based on the Cal­i­bre 1969, and beats at 28,800 vph. CH 80 has a unique ver­ti­cal clutch which en­sures a more con­sis­tent en­ergy flow by al­ways keep­ing the gears of the chrono­graph meshed to­gether, thus min­imis­ing en­ergy wastage. Th­ese move­ments are pow­ered from one bar­rel and thus one spring, which demon­strate su­pe­rior ef­fi­ciency over com­pa­ra­ble move­ments.

As the pride of two ma­jor watch con­glom­er­ates, the 80 Hours Power Re­serve will grad­u­ally be im­ple­mented into brands within their port­fo­lios. Thus far, Swatch has in­tro­duced this move­ment di­rectly into the Certina DS watch while Hamil­ton has seen a trio of move­ments likely to be mod­i­fi­ca­tions of the ETA CO7.111. No doubt, watch lovers can look for­ward to a new gen­er­a­tion of watches which not only stay true to the her­itage of each brand, but are also en­dowed with greater stamina. The 80 Hours Power Re­serve truly keeps up with the times.

HENRY FORD “I see no ad­van­tage in th­ese new clocks. They run no faster than the ones made 100 years ago.”–

Right: Hamil­ton Flin­tridge.

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