BAR­ING IT ALL

Roger Dubuis launches its “Year of the As­tral Skele­ton” with a truly spe­cial lim­ited edi­tion Ex­cal­ibur that prom­ises both ex­cep­tional beauty and tech­ni­cal fi­nesse.

Esquire Malaysia Watch Guide - - 10 Watches of 2015 - Words by Re­mus Ng

A KEY AN­NOUNCE­MENT made by Roger Dubuis at SIHH 2015 was that this year would be the “Year of the As­tral Skele­ton”. They also set forth the aim of ac­quir­ing the rep­u­ta­tion for ar­chi­tec­tural and tech­ni­cal watch­mak­ing ex­cel­lence and so, to bring their col­lec­tions up a notch, Roger Dubuis have in­tro­duced a slew of out­stand­ing Ex­cal­ibur watches. They high­light the brand’s ex­per­tise in tick­ling the imag­i­na­tion with skele­tonised watches that are as much about artis­tic beauty as they are about tech­ni­cal com­po­si­tion.

Of spe­cial note is the Ex­cal­ibur Spi­der Skele­ton Dou­ble Fly­ing Tour­bil­lon—the highly tech­ni­cal craft­ing of an haute hor­logerie skele­ton within the piece show­cases the un­mis­tak­able tal­ent that the house has for cre­at­ing mar­vel­lous, enigmatic watches with mod­ern aes­thetic val­ues.

The skele­tonised struc­ture of the dial and the move­ment al­lows the wearer to eas­ily view most of the watch’s com­plex in­ner work­ings. The im­mac­u­late syn­ergy of th­ese many com­po­nents clearly re­veals the level of skill, ex­pe­ri­ence and at­ten­tion to de­tail re­quired to con­cep­tu­alise and re­alise such an in­tri­cate piece.

To com­pare the Ex­cal­ibur Spi­der Skele­ton Dou­ble Fly­ing Tour­bil­lon with a finely tuned sports car—both tech­ni­cally and aes­thet­i­cally—would not be amiss. In fact, draw­ing in­spi­ra­tion from sports cars, the de­sign­ers in­tro­duced bright red el­e­ments to the com­po­nents such as the in­ner bezel, the hands and the crown, which cre­ate a dy­namic con­trast with the gun­metal grey of the rest of the watch.

Housed within the RD01SQ cal­i­bre are the stars of the show: the dou­ble fly­ing tour­bil­lons. The twins sit in dif­fer­en­tial po­si­tions, fully ro­tat­ing at one minute each, at the 4.30 and 7.30 po­si­tions of the dial. Tak­ing cen­tre stage on the watch, each of the fly­ing tour­bil­lons has a prom­i­nent Celtic cross em­bla­zoned across the top, and the fly­ing con­fig­u­ra­tion cre­ates an il­lu­sion that the crosses are float­ing in mid-air.

To fur­ther en­sure ac­cu­racy, the move­ment, which has been ad­justed to no less than six po­si­tions, con­sists of 319 in­tri­cately em­bel­lished parts. It takes the skilled crafts­men at Roger Dubuis a to­tal of 360 hours just to en­sure that the move­ment is pre­cisely as­sem­bled and fin­ished to qual­ify for Poinçon de Genève (Hall­mark of Geneva) cer­ti­fi­ca­tion, like all other watches from the man­u­fac­turer.

This in­ge­nious cre­ation is com­pleted with a 47mm case in ti­ta­nium and black DLC ti­ta­nium, which, be­cause of its skele­tonised move­ment, is lighter than it looks and wears very com­fort­ably. Fas­ten the time­piece with the sporty black rub­ber strap and you’ll have on your wrist a watch like no other. In fact, if you are in­deed for­tu­nate enough to get your hands on this very lim­ited edi­tion, you’ll have one of only 188 Ex­cal­ibur Spi­der Skele­ton Dou­ble Fly­ing Tour­bil­lons in the world. We told you it is spe­cial.

Top: Roger Dubuis - Ex­cal­ibur Spi­der Skele­ton Dou­ble Fly­ing Tour­bil­lon.

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