The rise of our favourite bakers and baked goods in the country
KENNY HILLS BAKERS
Nestled in a quiet corner of Bukit Tunku, Kenny Hills Bakers advocates the principles of The Real Bread Campaign – an alliance formed for better food and farming to promote the production of proper bread. Through this campaign, a British master breadmaker taught local bakers how to make bread using stonemilled organic flour and without the addition of ar tificial additives and processing aides.
Bread here is hear ty and flavourful and is great eaten on its own or with a generous slather of butter. It’s also the perfect foil for a variety of sandwich fillings, and we can personally attest that the roast rib eye, caramelised onions, peppery watercress and horseradish served in a perfectly crusty baguette is absolutely delicious.
A close runner-up is the smoked salmon with cream cheese and capers sandwiched between a poppy seed bagel. Due to its popularity with the locals, we recommend heading here early for breakfast or lunch – when we arrived at 2pm on a weekday, nearly all the bread had sold out! While you’re at it, pick up a couple of loaves too.
Lot I-1A, Taman Tunku, Bukit Tunku, Kuala Lumpur Tel: 03-6206 4111 www.facebook.com/pg/kennyhillsbakers
Bread here is hearty and flavourful and is great eaten on its own or with a generous slather of butter”
HUCKLEBERRY FOOD & FARE
The first thing you’ll notice when walking into this hip café-slash-bakery is the aroma of baking bread and this is enough to make you want to order everything on the menu. The bakery’s name was inspired by a line from Mark Twain’s The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn – “... there ain’t nothing in the world so good when it’s cooked right”.
Huckleberry produces 25 types of handcrafted bread every week, made from a house blend of organic flour and r ye sourdough star ter, and they have recently also introduced gluten-free bread with chia seeds. Their multigrain and farmer’s bread are their bestsellers in the crusty range, while their farmhouse and German multigrain loaves do well in the sandwich loaf category. You know their baguettes are authentic when members of the French expat community here are regular customers.
Huckleberry is also known for their miche sourdough (round French rustic loaf) with a full-bodied taste and chewy texture (in a good way!) that’s best eaten fresh out of the oven or lightly toasted with butter and your favourite fruit preserves. Pastries here are on the sinful side with the Kouign Amman (cake and butter) ruling supreme – note that it’s only available by special order – and buttery, flaky croissants that will make your breakfast worth getting up for.
2G & 4G, Jalan Medan Setia 2, Plaza Damansara, Damansara Heights, Kuala Lumpur Tel: 03-2098-7933 www.huckleberry.my
There ain’t nothing in the world so good when it’s cooked right”
Der Backmeister (‘the Bakemaster’ in English) is a German restaurant and bakery tucked in the corner of Taman Tun Dr Ismail. The bread here is baked fresh daily and the bakery takes great pride in baking the traditional way without dough risers, preservatives or additives. Oliver Rollar, owner of Der Backmeister, emphasises that his bread is made just how it was hundreds of years ago with humble ingredients like flour, water, salt and yeast. And a skilled baker to knead the dough, of course!
Bread plays a major role in German cuisine and has a denser texture than what is usually available here. Der Backmeister’s farmer’s bread has been modified to suit the Malaysian palate, but retains its authenticity with a slightly sour taste. Their bestseller is the Honey Spelt Bread, made with a type of grain that is both highly nutritious and easy to digest.
There’s plenty of choice when it comes to the menu, but the Big Backmeister breakfast set certainly hits the spot with its generous bread basket (Bavarian Spelt, Der Backmeister Special Bread) accompanied by cold cuts and eggs. There are also hearty soups and sandwiches for filling lunches; but in all of this, the bread is always the star.
40, Persiaran Zaaba, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, Kuala Lumpur Tel: 03-2856 0613 www.derbackmeister.com
Der Backmeister’s bread is made just how it was hundreds of years ago with humble ingredients like flour, water, salt and yeast”
While you might expect a classic French bistro like Yeast Bistronomy to focus on savoury Parisian fare like duck rillettes and escargot – and they do have it on their menu – they are actually best known for their delicious artisanal breads and pastries. Everything is baked fresh daily at their atelier (workshop) and the best time to get their creations is in the morning, as everything is usually sold out by late afternoon.
When asked, owner and chef Frank D. Ruidavet humbly explained that their bestsellers are their baguettes and sourdough breads. There’s nothing quite like a good sourdough, which can be quite difficult to find here, so we were only too happy to tr y their famed favourite with its welcomingly dense texture and subtle sour notes – a perfect complement to sandwich fillings like egg mayonnaise or roast beef.
Yeast’s most popular sandwich is the croque monsieur, a classic French staple, which is basically a grilled turkey ham and cheese. Though it’s not a complicated combination, the decadent flavours of the ham and cheese pair perfectly with the bread, and Yeast doesn’t skimp on the cheese either with another layer melted on top of the sandwich.
Another must-try is the Le Paris Province, which is the moreish combination of turkey ham and Gruyere cheese on a warm baguette. It’s interesting to note that there’s a Happy Hour Deal where a 30 per cent discount is given on bread products after 5pm, and diners are sometimes given bread as a parting gift if there is any left at the end of the evening. EL
24G, Jalan Telawi 2, Bangsar, Kuala Lumpur Tel: 03-2282 0118 www.yeastbistronomy.com
Yeast’s most popular sandwich is the croque monsieur, a classic French staple”