Loaf­ing Around

The rise of our favourite bak­ers and baked goods in the coun­try

Expatriate Lifestyle - - Contents - Words by Theresa Shalini Stephen Photo by Bryan Ong, Huck­le­berry Food and Fare & Yeast Bistron­omy

KENNY HILLS BAK­ERS

Nes­tled in a quiet cor­ner of Bukit Tunku, Kenny Hills Bak­ers ad­vo­cates the prin­ci­ples of The Real Bread Cam­paign – an al­liance formed for bet­ter food and farm­ing to pro­mote the pro­duc­tion of proper bread. Through this cam­paign, a Bri­tish master bread­maker taught lo­cal bak­ers how to make bread us­ing stone­milled or­ganic flour and with­out the ad­di­tion of ar ti­fi­cial ad­di­tives and pro­cess­ing aides.

Bread here is hear ty and flavour­ful and is great eaten on its own or with a gen­er­ous slather of but­ter. It’s also the per­fect foil for a va­ri­ety of sand­wich fill­ings, and we can per­son­ally at­test that the roast rib eye, caramelised onions, pep­pery wa­ter­cress and horse­rad­ish served in a per­fectly crusty baguette is ab­so­lutely de­li­cious.

A close run­ner-up is the smoked salmon with cream cheese and ca­pers sand­wiched be­tween a poppy seed bagel. Due to its pop­u­lar­ity with the lo­cals, we rec­om­mend head­ing here early for break­fast or lunch – when we ar­rived at 2pm on a week­day, nearly all the bread had sold out! While you’re at it, pick up a cou­ple of loaves too.

Lot I-1A, Ta­man Tunku, Bukit Tunku, Kuala Lumpur Tel: 03-6206 4111 www.face­book.com/pg/ken­ny­hills­bak­ers

Bread here is hearty and flavour­ful and is great eaten on its own or with a gen­er­ous slather of but­ter”

HUCK­LE­BERRY FOOD & FARE

The first thing you’ll no­tice when walk­ing into this hip café-slash-bak­ery is the aroma of bak­ing bread and this is enough to make you want to or­der every­thing on the menu. The bak­ery’s name was in­spired by a line from Mark Twain’s The Adventures of Huck­le­berry Finn – “... there ain’t noth­ing in the world so good when it’s cooked right”.

Huck­le­berry pro­duces 25 types of hand­crafted bread every week, made from a house blend of or­ganic flour and r ye sour­dough star ter, and they have re­cently also in­tro­duced gluten-free bread with chia seeds. Their multi­grain and farmer’s bread are their bestsellers in the crusty range, while their farm­house and Ger­man multi­grain loaves do well in the sand­wich loaf cat­e­gory. You know their baguettes are au­then­tic when mem­bers of the French ex­pat com­mu­nity here are reg­u­lar cus­tomers.

Huck­le­berry is also known for their miche sour­dough (round French rustic loaf) with a full-bod­ied taste and chewy tex­ture (in a good way!) that’s best eaten fresh out of the oven or lightly toasted with but­ter and your favourite fruit pre­serves. Pas­tries here are on the sin­ful side with the Kouign Am­man (cake and but­ter) rul­ing supreme – note that it’s only avail­able by spe­cial or­der – and but­tery, flaky crois­sants that will make your break­fast worth get­ting up for.

2G & 4G, Jalan Medan Se­tia 2, Plaza Da­mansara, Da­mansara Heights, Kuala Lumpur Tel: 03-2098-7933 www.huck­le­berry.my

There ain’t noth­ing in the world so good when it’s cooked right”

DER BACKMEISTER

Der Backmeister (‘the Bake­mas­ter’ in English) is a Ger­man restau­rant and bak­ery tucked in the cor­ner of Ta­man Tun Dr Is­mail. The bread here is baked fresh daily and the bak­ery takes great pride in bak­ing the tra­di­tional way with­out dough ris­ers, preser­va­tives or ad­di­tives. Oliver Rol­lar, owner of Der Backmeister, em­pha­sises that his bread is made just how it was hun­dreds of years ago with hum­ble in­gre­di­ents like flour, wa­ter, salt and yeast. And a skilled baker to knead the dough, of course!

Bread plays a ma­jor role in Ger­man cui­sine and has a denser tex­ture than what is usu­ally avail­able here. Der Backmeister’s farmer’s bread has been mod­i­fied to suit the Malaysian palate, but re­tains its au­then­tic­ity with a slightly sour taste. Their best­seller is the Honey Spelt Bread, made with a type of grain that is both highly nu­tri­tious and easy to di­gest.

There’s plenty of choice when it comes to the menu, but the Big Backmeister break­fast set cer­tainly hits the spot with its gen­er­ous bread bas­ket (Bavar­ian Spelt, Der Backmeister Spe­cial Bread) ac­com­pa­nied by cold cuts and eggs. There are also hearty soups and sand­wiches for fill­ing lunches; but in all of this, the bread is al­ways the star.

40, Per­siaran Zaaba, Ta­man Tun Dr Is­mail, Kuala Lumpur Tel: 03-2856 0613 www.der­back­meis­ter.com

Der Backmeister’s bread is made just how it was hun­dreds of years ago with hum­ble in­gre­di­ents like flour, wa­ter, salt and yeast”

YEAST BISTRON­OMY

While you might ex­pect a clas­sic French bistro like Yeast Bistron­omy to fo­cus on savoury Parisian fare like duck ril­lettes and es­car­got – and they do have it on their menu – they are ac­tu­ally best known for their de­li­cious ar­ti­sanal breads and pas­tries. Every­thing is baked fresh daily at their ate­lier (work­shop) and the best time to get their cre­ations is in the morn­ing, as every­thing is usu­ally sold out by late af­ter­noon.

When asked, owner and chef Frank D. Rui­davet humbly ex­plained that their bestsellers are their baguettes and sour­dough breads. There’s noth­ing quite like a good sour­dough, which can be quite dif­fi­cult to find here, so we were only too happy to tr y their famed favourite with its wel­com­ingly dense tex­ture and sub­tle sour notes – a per­fect com­ple­ment to sand­wich fill­ings like egg may­on­naise or roast beef.

Yeast’s most pop­u­lar sand­wich is the croque mon­sieur, a clas­sic French sta­ple, which is ba­si­cally a grilled turkey ham and cheese. Though it’s not a com­pli­cated com­bi­na­tion, the deca­dent flavours of the ham and cheese pair per­fectly with the bread, and Yeast doesn’t skimp on the cheese ei­ther with an­other layer melted on top of the sand­wich.

An­other must-try is the Le Paris Prov­ince, which is the mor­eish com­bi­na­tion of turkey ham and Gruyere cheese on a warm baguette. It’s in­ter­est­ing to note that there’s a Happy Hour Deal where a 30 per cent dis­count is given on bread prod­ucts af­ter 5pm, and din­ers are some­times given bread as a part­ing gift if there is any left at the end of the evening. EL

24G, Jalan Telawi 2, Bangsar, Kuala Lumpur Tel: 03-2282 0118 www.yeast­bistron­omy.com

Yeast’s most pop­u­lar sand­wich is the croque mon­sieur, a clas­sic French sta­ple”

KENNY HILLS BAK­ERS LIES IN A QUAINT SPACE AT BUKIT TUNKU, FILLED WITH THE FRESH ARO­MAS OF BREAD, CAKES, PAS­TRIES AND EVEN PIZ­ZAS

FOR A SWEET TASTE OF HUCK­LE­BERRY, TRY THEIR SUG­AR­COATED CIN­NA­MON ROLLS

THE UN­END­ING SPREAD OF HEARTY BREADS HERE AT DER BACKMEISTER COULD FEED THE WHOLE FAM­ILY AND MORE BE­SIDES

FOR A TASTE OF CLAS­SIC FRENCH BREAD, YEAST IS SURE TO SAT­ISFY

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