Hanne Gaby Odiele set the tone when she marched out in a wool cardigan thrown over a baby-doll dress, fishnet tights, and heavy black boots. Thanks to Hedi Slimane, grunge is officially back. If his Spring debut was buzzy, his Autumn tribute to the ’90s had people chattering for weeks. Detractors argued there weren’t any lofty concepts or groundbreaking originality, but it is hard to deny these pieces will fly off shelves. The styling may have given it an underground, street nonchalance but individually the clothes were exquisite. The oversized cardigans were mohair and cashmere, the skater dresses were lambskin, and even the fishnet tights were bejewelled. Some said Slimane’s collection lacked Saint Laurent’s sophistication but Saint Laurent himself always aimed to shock and provoke, and Slimane did just that.