15 MIN­UTES WITH … MARC JACOBS

The artis­tic di­rec­tor on his de­signs for Louis Vuit­ton Au­tumn/Win­ter ’13 and the woman he had in mind.

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What was your in­spi­ra­tion for Louis Vuit­ton Au­tumn/Win­ter ’13? Women who en­joy beau­ti­ful things but don’t need to show them off. Beauty is a gift they give them­selves. There was a feel­ing of non­cha­lance, a loose sort of ennui; it was emo­tional, right down to the mu­sic that the pi­ano was play­ing. We wanted to cre­ate the feel­ing of some­thing glamorous, slightly deca­dent, and more erotic than last sea­son, which was so geo­met­ric. The story be­hind the show? It was about the mys­tery of what is be­hind a closed door. There was a bit of ex­hi­bi­tion­ism, voyeurism, just like the world we live in, where peo­ple are on the In­ter­net all the time be­cause they want to know what other peo­ple are do­ing. Ho­tels give peo­ple anonymity, leav­ing some­thing to your imag­i­na­tion. Mys­tery is so much more stim­u­lat­ing than fact. Tell us more about the looks. The clothes were el­e­gant and com­fort­able be­cause they were all based on nightwear – dress­ing gowns, night­gowns, slips, and py­ja­mas. I think that there was a feel­ing of be­ing em­braced by the clothes, which is very sen­su­ous. Con­ser­va­tive looks were made more fem­i­nine through em­broi­dery and se­quins. What did you hope women would feel wear­ing your de­signs? Th­ese clothes sort of ca­ress the body and you want to be wrapped in them. They make ref­er­ences to clothes that you wear in your most in­ti­mate mo­ments. Tell us about the fab­rics used. I wanted the sen­su­al­ity of beau­ti­ful fab­rics with very soft touches, very fluid and silky fab­rics. We added grad­u­ated os­trich feath­ers and se­quins to the menswear fab­rics to make them more fem­i­nine. There was the feel­ing of the glam­our of an evening gown but ap­plied to a man’s jacket, which was worn as a robe over a night­gown. Ev­ery­thing looked like one thing, but was ac­tu­ally some­thing else; some of the items that looked like lace were ac­tu­ally made up of lit­tle feath­ers. There was an in­cred­i­ble amount of work in all of the fab­rics and gar­ments on the part of our ate­liers and the whole team at Louis Vuit­ton. Were men’s jack­ets fea­tured in this show? Yes, they were de­signed by Jake and Di­nos Chap­man with Kim Jones in the last Louis Vuit­ton col­lec­tion. But we took off the but­tons and they were worn like robes de cham­bres, dress­ing gowns over slips and peignoirs. This made the clothes even more sen­sual and lux­u­ri­ous at the same time. Very fem­i­nine. Who was your muse for this col­lec­tion? She is a woman of deca­dence, some­one who ap­pre­ci­ates lux­ury. Per­haps she prefers look­ing beau­ti­ful and stay­ing in to go­ing out and show­ing off. She is from many dif­fer­ent eras: Glo­ria (played by El­iz­a­beth Tay­lor) in But­ter­field 8, Glo­ria Swan­son, Juli­ette Greco. There is a lit­tle bit of Left Bank, a lit­tle bit of Hol­ly­wood, and a lit­tle bit of some friends of mine who ap­peared in the show. Such as Kate Moss? Kate is a dear friend, she has closed many Louis Vuit­ton shows and I al­ways love hav­ing her in the show. She and I have spent many nights over many years in ho­tel rooms and have had lots of fun. We love the idea of us­ing ho­tel doors ... There is a mys­tery about what goes on be­hind closed doors. I spend a lot of time in ho­tels and it’s in­trigu­ing to think about your life and what other peo­ple think about you, as well as other peo­ple’s lives and what peo­ple think of them in turn. The ho­tel cor­ri­dor pro­vides a re­ally good back­drop for many dif­fer­ent char­ac­ters. Louis Vuit­ton is all about travel and we take you on a jour­ney ev­ery sea­son. This time it was a sen­sual jour­ney along the cor­ri­dor of an imag­i­nary ho­tel. There was no sign of the Louis Vuit­ton Mono­gram at the show. Where was it? It was on the bags, trunks, and suit­cases. Why is the de­sign of a show so im­por­tant? Peo­ple re­late to what they see. Some­times they don’t un­der­stand it but have a con­nec­tion with it. It might touch them in some way and make them search deeper in­side them­selves. For me, to strike that chord in some­one or to do some­thing that moves some­one in that way is very re­ward­ing. It’s what we hope to do with this and all of our shows.

Louis Vuit­ton Au­tumn/ Win­ter ’13

xxxx Back­stage at Louis Vuit­ton Au­tumn/ Win­ter ’13

Louis Vuit­ton Au­tumn/ Win­ter ’13

Marc Jacobs

Back­stage at Louis Vuit­ton Au­tumn/ Win­ter ’13

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