Tank MC watch, RM19,700, Cartier
In my interview with Vivienne Westwood some 15 years ago, the proto-anarchiste said punk was “a philosophy of life”. It wasn’t, she brazened, just about listening to the music and dressing the part, but about having a mindset of curiosity, and rebelling against convention. Her controversial wave was then misunderstood as being simply an aesthetic of shock, but for the Dame who flashed her knickerless self to the world just after receiving her OBE from the Queen in 1992, punk championed high culture, challenged politics, and made for thrilling fashion. It still does.
At the seminal exhibition ‘Punk: Couture to Chaos’ at The Metropolitan Museum in New York this summer, it was all vinyl, tartan, studs, spikes – and some lipsticked sneers – heralding the return of anti-fashion fashion, as evinced by the Autumn/Winter ’13 collections. “Although punk’s democracy stands in opposition to fashion’s autocracy, designers continue to appropriate punk’s visual vocabulary to capture its youthful rebelliousness and aggressive forcefulness,” wrote exhibition curator Andrew Bolton in the catalogue. But how this has evolved ...
We take on a more passionate attitude in the collections spread (‘Tough Love’ on page 186) that showcases plenty of subversive dressing, luscious latex, curious prints, and dark-eyed beauty – shot in the wet alleyways of London, where it all began. Beyond the archetypes, the essence of anarchy lies in how we are reconsidering the way we dress. It’s the big furs with sweet florals and studded knickers at Saint Laurent, to slip dresses worn flasher-style under mannish coats at Louis Vuitton (our ode to this suggestive sensuality on page 200). Also note Givenchy’s gypsy-meets-grunge collection of deconstructed biker jackets tied peplum-style at the waist and slashed-Bambi sweatshirts that re really puts your head in a spin, making Versace’s ‘Vunk’ the most we wearable of the lot.
W While we show you how to wear these new propositions – alon alongside the pillow clutch, the midi boot, the next skirt length, and neo non-colours (all on page 116) – it’s essentially about going against the grain and doing it your way. Now that’s a platform on which to base your style.
A sensual fairytale in ‘ Pillow Talk’
Versace Autumn/ Winter ’13
High Jewellery Diva earrings in sapphires and diamonds, Bulgari Demelza corset, Agent Provocateur
Snakeskin clutch, Dior