RUF­FLED GLAM­OUR From a pal­ette of dark hues to a mon­u­men­tal boundary-push­ing play of ma­te­rial, Bot­tega Veneta cel­e­brates mod­ern fem­i­nin­ity with its Spring/Sum­mer ’14 collection. By Sharmita Summugam.

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In a sea­son over­flow­ing with mag­nif­i­cent strokes of colour and run­ways filled with col­lec­tions that re­sem­ble paint­ings, To­mas Maier took a dif­fer­ent ap­proach for Bot­tega Veneta. “I was in­ter­ested in mak­ing the fab­ric the pièce de ré­sis­tance, serv­ing as a guide to the pos­si­bil­i­ties of what we would be able to achieve,” says the cre­ative di­rec­tor of his stream­lined, vi­sion­ary Spring/ Sum­mer ’14 collection. Draw­ing from the vo­lu­mi­nous, fem­i­nine sil­hou­ettes of the Belle Époque era, Maier art­fully pre­served the wideshoul­ders and ac­cen­tu­ated waist­lines, adding in­tri­cate ir­reg­u­lar folds, ruches, and rip­ples. In a play­ful man­ner, he ex­per­i­mented with fabrics, fold­ing and crum­pling them like craft paper un­til a la­dy­like form was achieved. This sea­son’s spe­cial el­e­ment is a new fab­ric, con­ceived with a crin­kled struc­ture, and wo­ven of nearly equal parts cot­ton and ramie for a very spe­cific look and tex­ture.

The pal­ette fea­tured shades of deep egg­plant, espresso, rust, inky black, and a dusky sal­mon rem­i­nis­cent of Ro­man palazzo façades. But­ter­fly­winged lay­ers, metic­u­lously crafted swatch­ing, waved pleats cas­cad­ing down dresses and tops, evening gowns em­bel­lished with fring­ing and shim­mery metal­lic bead­work along with clever asym­met­ri­cal lay­ers of painted cloth dom­i­nated the run­way giv­ing us an in­sight into the lim­it­less pos­si­bil­i­ties of pro­por­tion, tex­ture, and vol­ume. Each grace­ful look was per­fected with dainty ac­ces­sories, such as the wo­ven sling­backs with a pointed-square tip. In­spired by the idea of the mon­o­cle, bags and jew­ellery were ar­chi­tec­tec­turally or­ganic in de­sign. Rock crys­tals set in black­ened ster­ling sil­ver and at times ac­cented with yel­low or rose gold were a sublime con­trast to the sea­son’s de­tailed yet re­laxed drap­ing.

Bot­tega Veneta Spring/ Sum­mer ’14

Bot­tega Veneta Spring/ Sum­mer ’14

Bot­tega Veneta Spring/ Sum­mer ’14

Neck­lace, Bot­tega Veneta

De­tailed pleated ruf­fles

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