AMER­I­CAN HUS­TLE

Harper’s Bazaar (Malaysia) - - Beauty -

At Gucci’s Seven­ties disco fare, make-up artist Pat McGrath blended colours from the ap­ples of the cheeks to the tem­ples us­ing a foun­da­tion – yes, in­stead of bronz­ers – two to three shades darker than the model’s nat­u­ral com­plex­ion. En­hanc­ing the chis­elled frames with cream and pow­der high­lighters around the cheek­bones and brow bones, the face was beau­ti­fully sporty and yet in­cred­i­bly glam­orous – a tech­nique that was also seen across other shows, like Emilio Pucci and Donna Karan New York.

“It is in­spired by Marisa Beren­son and Lauren Hut­ton – glam­orous, bo­hemian, hip­pie,” quips Brit make-up dar­ling Char­lotte Til­bury of the Donna Karan girls. Us­ing MAC 30 Lash to cre­ate the “open, full feath­ery ef­fect” on the eyes, Til­bury also blended Plea­sure Model Ex­tra Di­men­sion Blush – avail­able in Malaysia soon – with deeper colours of Min­er­al­ize Sk­in­fin­ish on the en­tire cheek area for that glo­ri­ous Ali MacGraw glow.

And the ’70s look does not end there: stiletto-sharp eye­lashes were seen at Thakoon’s show as a nod to the era, with the face nat­u­rally en­hanced by high­light­ing only key fea­tures such as un­der­neath the cheek­bones and in­ner cor­ners of the eyes, as well as the ap­ples of the cheeks for that fresh-from-a-moun­tain­run ef­fect.

WEST COAST­ING

While all this fo­cus on the nat­u­ral com­plex­ion is very well and good, the look is by no means off-lim­its when it comes to colour. At Ro­darte, James Kaliar­dos gave the “wild LA girl – the real Los Angeles kind, not the red-car­pet ones” fierce V-lined eyes to match the ze­bra-printed sideswept hair. These nicely re­alised his Sun­set Strip glow, cour­tesy of cream blush­ers blended into the cheeks to com­ple­ment that leatherand-chain hau­teur. Sport this mod­ern take on the Eight­ies LA tan with Nars Matte Mul­ti­ple in Al­tai and An­guilla.

Ro­darte shows are well-known for tak­ing in­spi­ra­tion from the East Coast, but what about the man who epitomises New York chic? This sea­son, Marc Ja­cobs shocked and awed in equal mea­sure. Of course, there was the page­boy hair­cut that made the very idea of tai­lor­ing our hair to the shape of a co­conut con­sid­er­able, but Marc Ja­cobs’s Spring/Sum­mer ’14 show also set into mo­tion one very cool trend we can all love and wear more read­ily: the gor­geous teal and royal blue-lined eyes and sun-kissed skin of “edgy Californian surfer girls”.

“This is a sum­mer look that’s all about the eye – tons of eye­liner, and noth­ing else,” says Ja­cobs’s back­stage part­ner-in-crime and founder of cult beauty brand Nars, François Nars. “To al­low the eyes to re­ally pop, the skin was kept very trans­par­ent for a flushed look. Beau­ti­ful, edgy, but

not pretty.”

AKIN TO SKIN

“A light cov­er­age in all re­spects is re­ally im­por­tant,” re­veals Gar­land. “Shades are warmer – peaches and apri­cots, they just feel fit­ting. They have some­thing to do with the sun, which sub­lim­i­nally is about a more pos­i­tive vibe.” Box agrees. “It feels clean, clear, op­ti­mistic. I feel that ev­ery­thing has a much more up­beat un­der­cur­rent this sea­son.”

The best part about this up­dated beauty glow? You can wear it any­where, any­time, all year round.

“Yes, it’s be­come a bit of a cliché for sum­mer to spell out tans and or­ange lips and for win­ter to equal pal­lor with a dark red lip,” says Box of the colour shift. “We want some­thing more com­plex than that now. Some­thing that is more emo­tion­ally so­phis­ti­cated that rep­re­sents feel­ings rather than just the su­per­fi­cial. The ul­ti­mate aim seems to be the idea of glow­ing with some kind of in­ner con­fi­dence.” Dior Pres­tige White Collection Satin Bright­en­ing UV Base Blem­ish Balm

Tarte Colored Clay y Primer, RM130 Shu Ue­mura The Light­bulb UV Com­pact Foun­da­tion, RM180 Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Cream, RM175

Ro­darte Spring/ Sum­mer ’14

Marc Ja­cobs Spring/ Sum­mer ’14

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