MI­LAN MO­MENTS In­tel­li­gent women dom­i­nated the con­ver­sa­tion at Mi­lan Fash­ion Week with di­verse but equally strong col­lec­tions from Prada, Marni, and Tod’s. With a farewell col­lec­tion at Gucci and young stars on the rise, Italy is start­ing to re­gain fashio

Harper’s Bazaar (Malaysia) - - Runway Report -

The Ital­ian fash­ion in­dus­try has been mak­ing the news the past year, for rea­sons good and bad. On the sunny side, the Vic­to­ria & Al­bert Mu­seum staged ‘The Glam­our of Ital­ian Fash­ion 1945 – 2014’, re­mind­ing the world of splen­dours such as El­iz­a­beth Tay­lor drip­ping in Bul­gari jew­els and Mila Schön’s glim­mer­ing gowns from a by­gone era of deca­dence. To­day, such glam­orous ex­cess is alive in the cou­ture ate­liers of Armani Privé and Dolce & Gab­bana Alta Moda whose gowns are snapped up by Mid­dle Eastern princesses and Hol­ly­wood roy­alty alike.

On the other hand, a cloud of eco­nomic un­cer­tainty loomed. The na­tion’s big­gest brands re­ported slow­ing growth. Im­por­tant ed­i­tors and buy­ers skipped Mi­lan Fash­ion Week al­to­gether, see­ing it as a break be­tween en­er­getic Lon­don and cre­ative, en­ve­lope-push­ing Paris. Oth­ers at­tended, but com­plained about the lack of new names and fresh tal­ent.

Mi­lan had its share of bright spots, though. In fact, the best mo­ments hap­pened when de­sign­ers cast the whole idea of Ital­ian glam­our aside to fo­cus on Ital­ian crafts­man­ship and to push the fash­ion con­ver­sa­tion for­ward; even if some­times for­ward sim­ply means out of the past and into the present.

THE HIGH­LIGHTS

Take Bot­tega Veneta, who did both in its own re­strained way. The crafts­man­ship has al­ways been there but the past few sea­sons have seen To­mas Maier fo­cus­ing on For­ties ref­er­ences. His ex­quis­ite dresses with their nipped waists and long hems were un­doubt­edly so­phis­ti­cated, but they also came off a lit­tle heavy.

What a de­light­ful sur­prise then to see the first look out at Bot­tega this sea­son – a long grand­fa­ther’s cardi­gan lay­ered

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Malaysia

© PressReader. All rights reserved.