THE ONES TO WATCH

Harper’s Bazaar (Malaysia) - - Runway Report -

the Marni we love was back, big­ger than ever. Long coats, midi skirts, asym­met­ri­cal ruf­fles were all wildly splashed with su­per­sized blooms in red, green, and yel­low. Castiglioni ended with a fi­nale that was lush in both colour and tex­ture.

THE TRENDS

The best col­lec­tions had one thing in com­mon; they strived for new­ness, to reach a younger cus­tomer. This de­sire to con­vey youth and a care­free spirit led to sev­eral key trends.

Denim for one was ev­ery­where, even at the old her­itage houses. At Gucci, Frida Gian­nini sent out slouchy denim with suede tops and jean jack­ets. But the most ex­cit­ing use of the ma­te­rial was at both Bot­tega Veneta and Tod’s, where it was cut into sleek and no-non­sense suits.

Sports­wear was also key. Em­po­rio Armani felt fresher than it has in a while with shorts, crop tops, and rompers, all worn with san­dals and sneak­ers. Dean and Dan Caten’s vi­sion at DSquared² was more high-en­ergy with su­per-sat­u­rated colours and stiff bonded leathers. Struc­tured sweat­shirts and polo tees were worn with bas­ket­ball shorts slung low to re­veal the lo­gos of their un­der­wear.

Oth­ers had the Sev­en­ties in mind. Peter Dun­das at Emilio Pucci mined the decade for party dresses in cro­chet and tie-dye. It was a con­vinc­ing take on bo­hemia, el­e­vated by rich ma­te­ri­als and crafts­man­ship. Veron­ica Etro was a lit­tle more lit­eral; her col­lec­tion looked ready to walk off the run­way and straight to Burning Man with its kaf­tans and Navajo prints. Only af­ter fash­ion month ended did we find out that Frida

As one big name leaves, oth­ers step into the spot­light. That spot­light cur­rently shines bright­est on Marco de Vin­cenzo who has a tal­ent for work­ing ma­te­ri­als hum­ble and op­u­lent in fresh ways. Case in point: the dense but light­weight fringe, the crys­tal mesh that was more pol­ished than show­girl, and his coat of checker board python. Bal­anc­ing easy sporti­ness with wom­anly so­phis­ti­ca­tion, de Vin­cenzo is part of the new wave Ital­ian fash­ion has been wait­ing for; one who could show the world what new Ital­ian glam­our looks like.

An­other ex­am­ple-set­ting brand is MSGM. In th­ese trou­bled times, Mas­simo Gior­getti has grown his busi­ness in the con­tem­po­rary cat­e­gory; show­ing fun, rel­a­tively in­ex­pen­sive clothes in easy shapes and poppy prints that stand out on Instagram and shop floors.

Alessan­dro Dell’Ac­qua is also suc­cess­ful at that high-low mix. His N°21 col­lec­tion mar­ried glam­our with quirk, and man­nish pieces with ul­tra-femme de­tails. Just look at how he em­bel­lished sa­fari shirts and paired emer­ald lace with plaid.

All eyes were on Rodolfo Paglialunga as he de­buted at Jil San­der. His first col­lec­tion was faith­ful to the ar­chives, riff­ing on navy and bur­gundy school uni­forms for lit­tle sweaters, crisp shirts, and cu­lottes; adding in more con­cep­tual touches such as sculpted shapes and graphic asym­me­try. It will be in­ter­est­ing to watch him grow into his new role.

MSGM Spring/ Sum­mer ’15

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