THE ONES TO WATCH
the Marni we love was back, bigger than ever. Long coats, midi skirts, asymmetrical ruffles were all wildly splashed with supersized blooms in red, green, and yellow. Castiglioni ended with a finale that was lush in both colour and texture.
The best collections had one thing in common; they strived for newness, to reach a younger customer. This desire to convey youth and a carefree spirit led to several key trends.
Denim for one was everywhere, even at the old heritage houses. At Gucci, Frida Giannini sent out slouchy denim with suede tops and jean jackets. But the most exciting use of the material was at both Bottega Veneta and Tod’s, where it was cut into sleek and no-nonsense suits.
Sportswear was also key. Emporio Armani felt fresher than it has in a while with shorts, crop tops, and rompers, all worn with sandals and sneakers. Dean and Dan Caten’s vision at DSquared² was more high-energy with super-saturated colours and stiff bonded leathers. Structured sweatshirts and polo tees were worn with basketball shorts slung low to reveal the logos of their underwear.
Others had the Seventies in mind. Peter Dundas at Emilio Pucci mined the decade for party dresses in crochet and tie-dye. It was a convincing take on bohemia, elevated by rich materials and craftsmanship. Veronica Etro was a little more literal; her collection looked ready to walk off the runway and straight to Burning Man with its kaftans and Navajo prints. Only after fashion month ended did we find out that Frida
As one big name leaves, others step into the spotlight. That spotlight currently shines brightest on Marco de Vincenzo who has a talent for working materials humble and opulent in fresh ways. Case in point: the dense but lightweight fringe, the crystal mesh that was more polished than showgirl, and his coat of checker board python. Balancing easy sportiness with womanly sophistication, de Vincenzo is part of the new wave Italian fashion has been waiting for; one who could show the world what new Italian glamour looks like.
Another example-setting brand is MSGM. In these troubled times, Massimo Giorgetti has grown his business in the contemporary category; showing fun, relatively inexpensive clothes in easy shapes and poppy prints that stand out on Instagram and shop floors.
Alessandro Dell’Acqua is also successful at that high-low mix. His N°21 collection married glamour with quirk, and mannish pieces with ultra-femme details. Just look at how he embellished safari shirts and paired emerald lace with plaid.
All eyes were on Rodolfo Paglialunga as he debuted at Jil Sander. His first collection was faithful to the archives, riffing on navy and burgundy school uniforms for little sweaters, crisp shirts, and culottes; adding in more conceptual touches such as sculpted shapes and graphic asymmetry. It will be interesting to watch him grow into his new role.
MSGM Spring/ Summer ’15