Phoebe Philo dis­tils a mul­ti­tude of in­ter­est­ing ideas into a clever, hard­work­ing wardrobe of real clothes. By Jef­frey Yan.

Harper’s Bazaar (Malaysia) - - The News -

WCé­line Spring/ Sum­mer ’15

Clutch, Cé­line hen Phoebe Philo started work on her Spring/Sum­mer ’15 col­lec­tion, she made a de­lib­er­ate de­ci­sion not to con­fine her ideas to any spe­cific themes or nar­ra­tives, sim­ply let­ting her thoughts flow from one point to an­other. The re­sult was a strong 40-look col­lec­tion that clev­erly an­swers the ques­tion of what real women want to wear. It is per­haps Philo’s least co­he­sive Cé­line col­lec­tion yet, but also one that has been in­jected with new en­ergy and light­hearted fresh­ness.

Take for in­stance the flo­rals. The old Philo would have edited them out of her ear­lier rigid work. Th­ese weren’t like the moody flo­rals of Re­sort ’12, printed on leather bik­ers and sharp pen­cil skirts. Here, they were loose and freeflow­ing in soft, fem­i­nine colours that called to mind the bo­hemian Sev­en­ties.

Un­der Philo, Cé­line has be­come the go-to for women who re­quire power pieces in which to charge for­ward. Now a softer side has emerged, clothes to waft around and am­ble along in. The densely fringed and frayed knit dresses which opened the show made a strong point. They were soft and ro­man­tic, but in a wom­anly way. Philo has a spe­cial tal­ent for strip­ping away the del­i­cate girl­ish­ness and pre­cious­ness of­ten as­so­ci­ated with flower prints, fringe, and ruf­fles, pair­ing them with strong black trousers or a tai­lored coat.

Even when she did cut-outs, they weren’t the usual sex­u­ally charged pieces. Hers had some­thing off-kil­ter about them, with lit­tle holes cut into the stom­ach area or large ones high at the waist, seamed with em­broi­dery and re­veal­ing more trouser than skin.

Philo might have loos­ened up and ex­panded but her work is still recog­nis­able. The pre­dom­i­nant sil­hou­ette was long, lean, and grace­ful. She touched on the strong mil­i­tary trend with a pair of army jack­ets; hers had graphic pan­els of high-shine leather spliced in. There were still plenty of the pre­cisely tai­lored trousers and coats that are the brand’s bread and but­ter, now up­dated with sur­re­al­ist de­tails such as an un­ex­pected cow­bell tied around the waist on string or gi­ant patch pock­ets. Some even had glar­ingly white porce­lain hands clasped around the neck or snakes and lips pinned onto lapels. It will be in­ter­est­ing to see Philo push­ing this richly de­tailed brand of min­i­mal­ism and re­laxed so­phis­ti­ca­tion for­ward.

Clas­sic box bag, Cé­line Jac­quard Lug­gage

bag, Cé­line

Skate shoes,

Cé­line

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