COOL GIRLS Nicolas Ghesquière unpacks feminism of a different kind. By Sunitha Thayaparan.
Ghat the Spring/Summer ’15 collections riff on ideas of feminism would literally be the understatement of the season. Even Hollywood gave a discreet nod to the ideology with Gillian Flynn’s Gone Girl made filmic by cult director David Fincher.Fi However, the cultural trope of the “cool girl”girl that Flynn alludes to – the girlgir that is the antithesis of the “good“go girl” but who is as much h of f a fiction – somehow resonates with the perfectly evolved collection Nicolas Ghesquière presents, his third for Louis Vuitton.
One thing is certain: Ghesquière is quietly taking his time. This is alluded to at the beginning of his Spring show, which launches the seminal Fondation Louis Vuitton – the Frank Gehry-designed building made of glass panels and steel that speaks to art and heart. A video is played and this luminous ous line from Frank Herbert’s Dune rings out: ut: “A beginning is a very delicate thing.” When hen the Balenciaga wunderkind left that esteemed med house after 15 years to join what was without out doubt one of the most sought-after creative ive helms in the business of fashion, it was as if pundits everywhere ere collectively held theireir breath. But that was in 2013, and now, in his third innings for Louis Vuitton, Ghesquière is showing his true colours. Last Autumn’s ’70s aestheticic is pumped up with volume no better evidenced denced than model Miranda iranda Kerr. She mesmerises es in lush kaleidoscopic flocked velvet, the threads a riveting veting Louis Vuitton Spring/ Summer ’15
Jennifer Connelly, Catherine Deneuve, Nicolas Ghesquière, Charlotte Gainsbourg, and Michelle Williams at the ‘ Series 2 – Past, Present and Future’ exhibition held in Los Angeles
Louis Vuitton Spring/ Summer ’15
Miranda Kerr and Nicolas Ghesquière