SONIC YOUTH Stuart Vevers captures how the cool kids want to dress with his rose-tinted take on American classics. By Jeffrey Yan.
For his second season, Stuart Vevers continues building on the codes he established at Coach last Autumn – clothes imbued with a laidback vibe, pieces one throws on before heading out to weekend picnics, road trips, flea markets, and music festivals. Compared to last season’s sturdy leathers and shearling, the new offering is decidedly lighter, both in weight and feel. Leathers dyed in a spectrum of pastels and brights are cut into miniskirts and T-shirts, accompanied by other youthful staples such as bomber jackets, parkas, duffle coats, mini crossbody bags, and flatform slides.
Last season’s giant shearling coat was an editorial hit, and returns this time in shaggy, candy-coloured faux fur. The pastels run through the whole collection but these aren’t artificially twee shades from little girls’ closets. Instead they come in sun-bleached, lived-in tones punctuated by pops of acid neon and colourful leopard print.
Vevers also places strong emphasis on outerwear; unsurprising considering Coach’s leather heritage. The coats and jackets have a boyish, utilitarian feel that has been cropping up everywhere this season but here it is nicely countered by the glossy leathers in dusty pastels and the little bags in bright metallics.
Another major trend that Vevers ticks off is the Seventies. No boho dresses or tie-dye kaftans here, though. Vevers zeroes in on the leggy flares, chunky clogs, and earthy leather sling bags. The shoes may be more of a styling cue, but the flares look wonderful, especially in dark blue and worn with a shrunken blazer in sunset orange.
On the accessories front, the key piece is the new Swagger bag – a wide-gusseted tote that runs up to a large size for everyday practicality, but is most charming as a mini sling. There is also the Americana collection – a capsule with prints lifted off vintage bandanas and rendered in red, white, and blue – as well as the Tribal collection – a range of tasselled and patterned bucket bags, scarves, and trinkets destined for Coachella.
But the talking point of the collection is undoubtedly the collaboration with contemporary artist Gary Baseman. His whimsical illustrations of expressive cartoon critters adorn T-shirts and baseball jackets, and dangle off bags and necklaces. Artistfashion brand collaborations are nothing new but rarely do they translate into something so approachable, lighthearted, and young. Vevers sure is making all the right choices in steering this old American brand the right way forward. Embossed Drifter bag, RM3,000, Coach
Leather slides, RM1,630, Coach
Coach Spring/ Summer ’15
Tasselled scarf, RM1,630, Coach Swagger bag, RM2,580, Coach
1. Gary Baseman iPhone case, RM480, Coach 2. Gary Baseman bag charm, RM640, Coach 3. Gary Baseman
necklace, RM1,630, Coach