“Lip shades on the eyes is the summery interpretation of last season’s playing with the undertones in the skin,” divulges make-up expert Lyne Desnoyers. English make-up artist Kabuki creates a cocktail of cyan, fuchsia, and white lip colours for the chalky purple seen on the eyelids of the models at Sally La Pointe.
Pecheux also carves a niche with the romantic mauve eyelids he created for Derek Lam. The application is water-coloured, and the texture a result of using lipstick: MAC Pro Lipstick in Violetta, to be exact.
On the opposite end of the spectrum, under eyelids are also treated to a free hand. See Holly Fulton, where girls wore “sky colours”, notes Andrew Gallimore, who traces the lower lids in an ombre cyan while leaving the lashes clean, “fresh, elegantly unfussy.”
DON’T CARE, LOVE IT
“It is a palette cleanser of pastels,” says Kabuki of this free-spirited togetherness seen on the runways this season. The crux of the trend lies in a freedom of hand, the quaint use of colour – think minty greens, glossy eyelids, liquid metal, and ice-cream pastels – an out-of-the-box mix of products, and of course, insouciant hair: “If you see a woman in a beautiful Dior dress and her hair feels unfettered, you kind of look at her and think, ‘Wow, she has a lot of confidence’,” says mane man Guido Palau of the effortless rakedthrough tresses that went so well with the satin macaroon-hued lids Philips created for Raf Simons’s Dior.
Forget about getting done; this is all about leaving the rules behind and letting your hair down for a day of wild, fairy woodland fun. Here, nothing is too precious to wear to frolic in the thick of the woods – dancing sprites and magical love potions optional.